Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

wvicary

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    2,980
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wvicary

  1. Try turning the ignition key back and forth a small amount. The ignition switches are prone to fail and cause many odd electrical gremlins.
  2. Do you have two batteries and if so, which one did you replace? Many had a main battery located under the left front seat and a starting battery located in the spare tire carrier area.
  3. Just wondering if you replaced the flywheel also and was it a dual-mass unit?
  4. Are you saying the engine will not crank or it's cranking ok but just not firing up??
  5. This a manual or tiptronic? It does sound like a water pump to me though.
  6. The front drains are located in the same area that holds the brake master cylinder and such. There is one left and one right side drain that empties to the rear of the wheel well liner. They are hard to see but just check for standing water in that area. As mentioned above, there are other sources for the water to enter and inspect the condition of the cabin air filter.
  7. Just follow the replacement procedure for the AOS. It's the same with or without transaxle, just easier with the unit removed.
  8. The ignition timing is also used to control idle speed as it reacts faster/more accurate then trying to move a idle speed motor or throttle plate. The timing will always fluctuate to some degree at idle for these reasons. Even though you have no fault codes, I would carefully inspect for a vacuum leak and I believe the best way is using a smoke machine.
  9. Didn't RFM already answer this question for you?
  10. The Blizzaks are a very good tire but wear very quickly. Be sure to rotate them and have your wheel alignment in spec to get maximum tread life.
  11. Bad engine mounts will not cause the idle to dip below spec.
  12. If the "V" between the cylinder wasn't cleaned properly of the old coolant it could take ages for the residue to disappear. The water pump is also a source of leaks so get that inspected.
  13. This is a fault with self leveling system for the HID lights. A call to your dealer will verify if it's covered under your warranty.
  14. Retest the the fuel pressure. New parts can fails and people make mistakes on installations. Wouldn't be the first time I have seen a fuel line come adrift at the pump module.
  15. Before replacing loads of expensive parts, remove the lower engine covers, wash the area off and re-inspect it to locate the source of the leaks. P/S leaks or front differential leaks are not common. I remember reading once about a case were the P/S tank was leaking but can't remember why or how it was damaged. Oh.... welcome to the forum. Search the site for information on the carden shaft.
  16. It's the starter bendix bushing that makes the noise. It will never cause a no start condition just that annoying noise. I you decide to repair the unit, have it rebuilt for a fraction of the cost from the dealer and be sure to have the new oilite bushing properly oiled before installation.
  17. The engine speed sensors are a good place to start but can be difficult to reproduce the faults, if they are original just replace them as a matter of course. I would first change out the ignition coil and ignition control module. The coil can internally and intermittently short and overload the control module causing the primary ignition signal to drop out.
  18. When you have heat is it hot then slowly goes cold or just warm? I assume the engine temp gauge and coolant level are normal.
  19. The vacuum valve is only for controlling coolant flow to the heat exchanger. I would suspect you have a control solenoid leaking hydraulic pressure or a broken sealing ring for a clutch pack. What was the condition of the old oil and filter?
  20. Interesting that people think Porsche is the only one with engine problems. I remember working for GM in the late 80's and having brand new vehicles with only a few km's on them get driven off the delivery truck and straight into a service bay to have the engine replaced due to connecting rod failures or massive cracks in the block leaking coolant. This was the 2.8L V6 that also suffered from intake manifold gasket fault that GM had a problem with on every V6 engine model. Did they ever admit or fix the problem? No they didn't. Did they redesign the engine to correct the faults. Nope. Every maker has problems to some degree.... I work on all makes and models and Porsche is one of the better.
  21. Directly above the yellow circle is a small black plastic vacuum line that connects to a black rubber junction fitting. These are the lines I'm referring to.
  22. There is a main vacuum line from the intake that connects to a junction fitting for the vacuum tank,secondary air and intake flap that can easily be broken or not connected. It is located very near the AOS so inspect it for damage.
  23. I'm not aware of any reset procedure for these pressure plates. I know the old 928 had a centering procedure of the intermediate plate but that was a system that used two clutch disks.
  24. I would first have the codes read out and then cleared as I have seen some cases where simply clearing any history codes corrects drivability issues as the transmission is adaptive to driving styles.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.