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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. Is your vehicle equipped with two batteries? The optional second battery is used for starting and located in the spare tire carrier area.
  2. The rotor size should also be stamped onto the rotor hat which can be seen through the wheel spoke.
  3. The repair is as described above for the warning message. As for the selector not being released the first thing to inspect is the brake light switch.
  4. If the operator keeps the clutch pedal pressed for long periods it will increase the wear on the crankshaft thrust brng.
  5. There is a fuse block located under a plastic cover near the brake master cylinder.
  6. Inspect the vacuum lines to the combi valves.
  7. Check with your local dealer as these might be covered by a recall on the V8.
  8. Clean the throttle body and see if that helps resolve the issues.
  9. Do you ride the clutch or keep your foot on the pedal while waiting at intersections? This will greatly reduce the operating life of the thrust brng.
  10. What is the problem you're having with the system?
  11. Now you've dropped yourself in it. Call your local lock smith and he'll have to jimmy the lock using tools that slip between the glass and frame.
  12. The part number is often on the old piece also.
  13. 1- No idea why it's making noises. I would first replace the relay and be sure the window switches aren't staying engaged. 2- There was a TSB for leaking rubber hoses at the fuel pressure regulator and dampener. Also a leak in the EVAP system can cause this problem. 3- Replace the fuel level sender. 4- Vacuum leaks are the first thing to check. Repairing the EVAP system might sort the idle speed fault. 5- Camshaft end cap gasket is a common source of engine oil leak at the rear of the engine.
  14. You need to replace the complete window regulator assembly. Topic has been covered many, many times.
  15. If the key turned 360 then you have a mechanical fault within the tumblers assembly. The radio security wire and an open centre console lid are common sources of alarm triggers.
  16. You can bypass the clutch switch to eliminate it as a cause but I think you have an issue with the mechanical side of the ignition switch. The key tumbler can wear and not fully turn the electrical portion of the switch and a worn tumbler assembly can also cause radio to remain live with key removed. You need to ground the security wire to stop the alarm fault trigger.
  17. I dont think reprograming will change anything. I can only suggest a different battery supplier. Some batteries stamp the expiry date on the package so try a buy the newest as possible.
  18. There are many benefits to becoming a member, I highly recommend it.
  19. The alignment garage will true the steering wheel if nothing is worn/bent. Removal of the wheel isn't the normal procedure.
  20. Both key fobs have new batteries and they go dead in 3 days? They are transmitters so should only be consuming power when a button is being pushed. Is the LED light on all the time or only when pressing a button?
  21. Best not to muck around disconnecting things as you risk discharging the air bag. Post the fault codes and the members here will try and offer direction.
  22. I would change out the ignition switch first as they can cause odd issues like this. As for the rough cold idle start by cleaning the throttle body and idle speed motor if your model year has one.
  23. How did you verify the camshaft timing? Are you hearing a backfire through the exhaust?
  24. Is the engine not cranking over fast enough and thats why they thought a boost was needed? The fuel pump has nothing to do with engine cranking speed. I would test the battery and then inspect the ground connections and the positive cable to the starter. There has been a problem with this circuit due to corrosion which leeds to excessive resistance and is worse due to heat soak.
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