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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. wvicary
    Then you have a faulty bulb, wiring or DME issue but bulb is the first thing to inspect. You really need to have the fault codes checked.
  2. wvicary
    Congrats fella. I almost bought one of these about ten years ago. I would still change out that timing belt and carefully inspect everything due to age.
  3. wvicary
    Check to see if you can even communicate with the seat control module and check for fault codes. Maybe it has just lost it's coding.
  4. wvicary
    I don't see anything to worry about but keep inspecting the filters.
  5. wvicary
    The best step is to have the system checked for codes or it's all guess work. I recommend purchasing the Durametric unit.
  6. wvicary
    Left side as viewed from the drivers seat facing forward.
  7. wvicary
    Are you sure you replaced the correct coil? Describe the location please as seen from the drivers seat facing forward.
  8. wvicary
    Personally I wouldn't even run the engine at all and recheck all your timing marks. I'll assume there were no running issues before the work was carried out.
  9. wvicary
    Replace the timing belt/balance shaft belt/water pump/front engine oil seals and any tensioner/rollers that need doing while in there to be safe. The OEM clutch disc is also a rubber mounted unit and can fail with time so consider that into the price.
  10. wvicary
    Even though there is no check engine light you may have fault codes stored. Does the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition key on/engine off?
  11. wvicary
    The CAN-BUS system used on the Cayenne is very sensitive to low voltage conditions and a failing battery can cause odd issues in many systems. Remove the spare tire and BOSE speaker sub if equipped and look for the second battery. You really need to get the battery drain issue sorted before trying to solve the air suspension fault as it could very well be related to the battery issue.
  12. wvicary
    You should start inspecting the main connector located on the transaxle. Water can migrate into the sensor corroding the pins and the odd time transmission fluid can be drawing through the connector into the vehicle wiring harness causing issues. Pull back the weather pack grommets and carefully inspect.
  13. wvicary
    Welcome. First thing to check is the battery/batteries and charging system. Your vehicle may have a main battery located under the left front seat and another battery located in the spare tire well used only to start the engine.
  14. wvicary
    It's such a small amount I personally wouldn't worry about but if it's a concern just syphon out the coolant tank and re-fill it before running the engine anymore.
  15. wvicary
    Impossible to tell if it's a DIY without knowing the cause of the issue. What tool are you using to retrieve fault codes? I find it hard to believe there are not fault codes present. I would start by inspecting the spark plugs/ignition coils, EVAP system then fuel pump pressure/volume in that order.
  16. wvicary
    You can buy a rebuild kit for item 4 if that is your issue.
  17. wvicary
    Just curious as to what engine oil you are using and what mileage you change it at? Please don't turn this into a oil debate people.
  18. wvicary
    It's not odd to have metal flakes caught in the filter but to what degree and what they are from is the question. How many miles on the engine? Can you post a pic of the filter/flakes? If they have already pulled the clutch assembly to inspect the IMS, why not just update the unit with the LN unit and have it done with?
  19. wvicary
    Are there any faults codes? Does this only happen while the secondary air pump is running?
  20. wvicary
    It could be just the switch as the part has been updated. Sorry I don't know the fault tracing needed to sort the issue.
  21. wvicary
    If there are any LED light flashing at the selector switch that indicates an error in the system which you'll need the dealer scanner or after market scanner such as Durametric to read. I can only suggest checking all the fuses in both fuse blocks and having the system checked for codes.
  22. wvicary
    Are the brake lights operating when you apply the brake? Have you tried restarting the engine?
  23. wvicary
    Yes that is the vapour line for the EVAP system which is under vacuum at certain times controlled by the DME as a duty cycle. Unfortunately I seen "repairs" like this before and you're right to replace the unit. You didn't have a check engine light?
  24. wvicary
    I also always use anti-sieze in very small amounts only on the start of the plug threads. If the spark plug is torqued correctly it will not loosen. To aid in removal of the spark plug HT lead I lightly coat the contact area to plug with dielectric grease to stop bonding and corrosion and even apply it to the ignition coil electrical plug. We are talking about very small amounts of products here and high temp anti-sieze.
  25. wvicary
    Sorry I can't help to answer the cost involved question but I think one of the best reasons to replace spark plugs due to time is to reduce the risk of them seizing into the cylinder heads. Spark plugs can become glazed from short trips due to them not being at operating temp long enough to burn themselves clean. This isn't so much a concern with the newer cleaner burning engine. Just another thing to consider is replacing the ignition coils at the same time due to age.
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