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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. I've not heard of this before..... just a guess but perhaps the bellows around the shifter cables has come loose from the body causing cold air to be drawn in.
  2. We prep about 20 cars for storage every winter and use stabilizer, why take the risk of damaging something over a $7.00 dollar bottle of stabilizer?? But in the end it's your money and spend it as you see fit.
  3. Always use a stabilizer, gasoline can go off in a matter of months in some cases. It's best to add the stabilizer, fill the tank and then run the engine so the stabilizer can be introduced into the entire fuel system.
  4. At the "min" level on the reservoir the warning light should be on. Purchase some DOT 4 brake fluid and top up the level if it is indeed low then off to visit the dealer. Best have a look in the manual to see if your looking at things correctly.
  5. That field marshell was one lucky fecker....
  6. I agree it does sound like valve train noise. Go back to 0w40 and let us know the results.
  7. STP will not "beef up" the seal and I don't see how a different weight of oil will reduce a RMS leak when things are up to temperature. Best to take it to a good indie or Porsche dealer to find the cause of the leak if it is indeed a RMS and follow thier recommendations.
  8. This is just a guess but could it the rust proofing that Porsche uses?? I believe it's called cosmoline. Possible it's getting hot enough from the cooling system for it to drip from the under carriage. Sorry I can't be of more help.
  9. On each connector there is a locking tab that must pressed down for the plug to release from the unit. It's very straight forward and the electrical plugs are indexed and of different sizes so you won't be able to mix anything up. Depressing the small locking tabs is a pain for myself as my hands/fingers aren't regulation size.... or in other terms, I have fat fingers.
  10. Hard to say without hearing the noise... could be the fuel tank vent solenoid that makes up part of the EVAP system cycling on and off, but like I say, just a guess without actually hearing it.
  11. I've only replaced one regulator before and that was years ago on a '99 boxster. I don't remember anything like whats in your first pics.... sorry I can't be of more help. I'll have a look through the factory manuals and Alldata to see if they show anything and post what I find if anything.
  12. Which warning light comes on? Is it the one for hydraulic failure/low fluid level or low brake pad?
  13. Your ready to spend loads of money and time on fuel pumps, filters and MAF sensors but start banging on about what it might cost for someone who knows what they are doing to diagnosis the problem?!?! I really don't understand people like you at all. I read somewhere that it could be the clutch disc.... best change it and see if that helps.
  14. Insite has it, it's called a Positive Crankcase Ventilation/Overpressure valve. I wouldn't worry to much if it's just slightly wet with oil but maybe ask the dealer just to be safe.
  15. Does it crank longer then before or does it seem to be cranking over slower before it flashes up??
  16. Is this actually coolant thats coming out the exhaust pipe or just condensation that collects in the exhaust system as a process of combustion? Sounds like you may be jumping the gun here.
  17. I get this codes with a VAG on VW when someone has installed an aftermarket radio. I don't know if it's the same case with your boxster.
  18. Seeing as how the clutch was just done it sounds to me like a drive axle has come off. People often don't torque the bolts that hold the axle onto the transmission. Hope it's nothing serious.
  19. I'm not trying to be rude or anything but it might be best if you took your car in to the dealer or a good independent repair garage. You sound rather inexperienced with cars and though it's good to learn DIY repairs, trouble shooting and such can go wrong very quickly. Your question about if you touch the pos or neg battery post has me alittle concerned. Try and get the codes pulled and post your results. There are many knowledgable people on this forum and I'm sure they can guide you in the right direction.
  20. Have a look inside the throttlebody to see if there is a build up of gunk. Just use carb cleaner and a rag to clean it up.
  21. I've cleaned about 100 MAF with a aerosal cleaner and not once had any success..... we always end up replacing the sensor.
  22. Didn't porsche have a updated fuel cap or seal??
  23. I don't think it is a vacuum your hearing but pressure that builds up in the gear case. Transaxles have a vent that sometimes gets plugged and causes this problem, it can lead to leaks as the pressure will push the fluid past seals and such. I've no idea where the vent is located on your car...... Loren or Toolpants hopefully can help out.
  24. 14mm is the diameter of the bolt. You then tighten the bolt to 100nm plus 90 degrees but don't use a torque wrench to go the extra 90 degrees. You can damage the torque wrench by going past it's limit or setting, buy yourself a straight bar or power handle.... they go by different names. The type of bolt your dealing with is known as a "torque to yeild" and are very common these days. Often this type of bolt is a one time use only and must be replaced each time.
  25. Don't take anything apart yet..... take a vid of what your on about first so we can really see what your trying to say.
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