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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. wvicary
    The air temp sensor shouldn't be reading negitive. I believe the air temp sensor is part of the MAF sensor, check the connection on the MAF sensor to make sure it is clean and engages correctly. If the problem continues replace the MAF as they are known to fail often. It is possible for two sensor to fail at the same time though the odds are rather against it.
  2. wvicary
    I would suspect that maybe the clutch master cylinder is bypassing internally and not disengaging the clutch at times. This would explain the different engagement points.
  3. wvicary
    Wow... four days and they've narrowed it down to the MAF sensor. Would you mind posting the name of the dealer/repair shop so I don't make the mistake of going there.
  4. wvicary
    Sorry to hear about this, hope no one was hurt. Any idea what started the fire?
  5. wvicary
    The overflow for the coolant tank is near the passenger rear tire... if the coolant cap isn't seated correctly, coolant will drip onto the ground when the engine is hot. Also the coolant tank cap has just been updated again.
  6. wvicary
    Always wise to do a few "cool down" laps before shut things down. Maybe the oil level is slightly over full and even more so with a hot engine after being on the track. Just a stab in the dark mind you.
  7. wvicary
    Have you replaced the DME relay under the drivers seat yet? That's where I would start, they are known to fail with age and are the main relay for the fuel injection system.
  8. wvicary
    It's normal to have some oil in the J tube. Don't drive the car if the check engine light is flashing. Can you list the engine codes. To my knowledge your car doesn't have a EGR valve.... maybe best to start by finding another garage to have a look at it.
  9. wvicary
    I had a VW passat that used to do this and it turned out to be a wheel brng. The brng made no noise but was loose and it caused the ABS system think that the one wheel was turning at a different speed,it would only happen while turning and braking like when pulling into my drive way. Replaced the brng and it never did it again.
  10. wvicary
    Any excessive smoke from the exhaust? Possibly the oil separator starting to fail. It can cause the smoke on start up and poor idle due to the vacuum leak caused when the separator fails.
  11. wvicary
    There have been reports of water migration into the brake booster causing the brakes to stay engaged.
  12. wvicary
    Sorry but I thought if the AOS failed it would have high vacuum in the crankcase not pressure. Loren am I out to lunch on this??
  13. wvicary
    If your just flushing the fluid you shouldn't have any air in the system. I have read of people holding the clutch pedal to the floor while flushing the system but I have never done this... I just open the bleeder valve, turn on the power bleeder and closed the valve when the fluid runs clear. Always keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder as you don't want to introduce air into the system. After all is said and done I've not noticed anything different in pedal feel or engagement points. Maybe rebleed the system and see if that changes anything. Not sure if the way I do it is right or wrong but it's always worked.
  14. wvicary
    The brake light switch has no reset feature. The switches do fail and are easy to replace, that's where I would start.
  15. wvicary
    Are the enclosures you made a sealed box? If so, why do you think bolting them to the engine cover would help the sound??
  16. wvicary
    The OBD system uses the O2 sensors the measure the secondary air system.... possible problem with the O2's. The air pump shouldn't be coming on with engine temps of 180.
  17. wvicary
    or 10mm
  18. wvicary
    The pressures seem okay so I would think you have unwanted heater core air mixing with the evaporator air. Some folks have repaired these blend doors but I've only replaced them once.
  19. wvicary
    I would get a second opinion. There are many plastic lines and such that could cause a EVAP leak and I have never seen a "crack in the fuel pump". Hope you get it sorted.
  20. wvicary
    You mentioned a valve behind the center console that you checked, what is this valve? I thought they used a blend door and not a water control valve. I've seen the foam backing on the blend door fail and cause heating/cooling issues in the climate control. A sign of this failing is little chunks of foam coming from the dash vents. I assume that the compressor and both cooling fans are cutting in. What was the low and high side pressures when you checked?
  21. wvicary
    Lubro Moly make some great products the are available overseas. Their valve cleaner is part number LM 2054 and injection cleaner LM 2055.
  22. wvicary
    My nearest deal sells you the Pentosin, was told by the parts person that is what they use in the shop.
  23. wvicary
    Sounds like the intermediate shaft failed..... complete engine replacement is the only repair I know of.
  24. wvicary
    Thanks for all the info.
  25. wvicary
    I seem to remember reading that a faulty ignition switch could cause the cluster to stay on. Hopefully someone with more onfo can chime in. I'll do some searching and see if I can find that article.
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