A34735

Oops..! B)

http://stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/997.1/ This site has a complete list of option codes. I can't see how to convert this to a pdf on my ipad (intuitive on my old PC!) FWIW, an awful lot related to leather trim,

I found the same when I swapped my 996 for a 997. Dealer said the key in door cabrio retract was deleted for the 997. I can't remember why....

I'm embarassed to show only 16K on my 2007 C2S. But that's 5K more than when I got it 3 months ago.

My dealer service manager is a veteran P guy (Gunther at Porsche of Fremont) I trust implicitly, so I doubt he's full of crap. But I have ignored his blessing and keep the revs below 4K till the oil is hot. But if oil temp is what really matters, ditch the water temp gauge and bring back volts. Having oil temp and pressure close would also be better ergonomics...

As the bearing cannot easily be upgraded, removing the rear seal will allow continuous splash lubrication by the sump oil, eliminating the "trapped oil breakdown" pathway to bearing failure. We have several customers running this way with no problems. Hi JFP in PA, I believe my engine has the IMS version that requires splitting the case to access it. Can you say if just prising off the cover (to allow splash lube) is a realistic option for me? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel Yes, but it requires doing nearly all the work required to do an IMS bearing swap on an earlier car. While the bearing cannot be removed without a total engine tear down, once the flywheel is removed you can easily access the IMS flange cover (you still need to lock the engine at TDC and lock the cams as though you were doing an IMS upgrade before removing the IMS flange cover), and then using a tool like a dental pick just pry out the IMS bearings rear seal (it is flexible, so you can get it out without problems). Then button everything back up. Thx JFP

My first Porsche was a 1999 C2 cabrio, 300 hp, bought in 2010 with 64K miles for $24.5K. It was just the base model, came with a lovely matching hard-top. And though 11 years old it was immaculate, inside and out, full dealer service history. In fact smelt and sounded 'newer' than most new cars. For 3 yrs it was my 90 miles/day commuter car: the thought of driving it helped get me out of bed at 545am, really! Then at 115K I had a mishap avoiding a deer, and wrote the car off. I topped up the insurance payment ($21.5K, thank you State Farm!) and got a 2007 997.1 C2S 6-speed manual cabrio, 11.5K miles, with the Sports pack (so 355 hp). I loved it at first, thought it was an incremental improvement over the 996, but now, 4,500 miles later I'm not so sure. What's obviously better? Interior. I thought the full leather interior of my 996 was pretty darn good, but the stitching on the 997 is like a Prada handbag - it's Rolls Royce vs Jeep. The headlights are the same story - good just got better! Ditto the ragtop, seats (heated, with the top down at 0C/32F - wonderful!). Engine sounds on start up (throaty burble, with some water on the lungs; transforms to the growling purr of a cat chasing a bird; then onto a sinfonic roar). I like the tire pressure monitoring system, still not sure if I fully trust it though. Truly amazing is the cabin comfortableness with the top down. When it's freezing, a thick jacket is all I need if the seat heater is on and the cabin temp is set suitably high - say 80F/27C. That much of the improvement comes from the mesh screen device (which was missing from my 996) was proved by not using it one morning - i was deeply cold after the 1hr drive to work. Exterior. Well, the return to round headlights makes purist sense - though I prefer the more slippery 996 profile and front end. And it looks wonderful, big fat tires, flawless deep blue paint, better profile with hood up (and a better hood) - I always pause to admire it for a second or two before climbing in. What's not to like? Well - and I'm sure I'll be accused of either incompetence or heresy or both for this: the 6 speed transmission is ****e! After having the dealer install the short shift kit, it was subjectively maybe a little better. But N to 1st often needs a throttle blip to allow the teeth to engage at all. I find I'm only doing seamless 1st to 2nds about 50% of the time. 2-3, 3-4, 4-3 are great, the downshifts being gratifyingly better with double declutching (sounds like dopplekoppling, eh Heinz?). But 3-2 can be hit or miss. 5 and 6 are fine, but pretty redundant for city driving. I think it better as a 4+2 than a 6, if that makes sense. But in all honesty, every other manual I've driven (which I did exclusively for my first 22 driving years) was easier to shift, up or down. (The clutch, BTW, is fine). The only other negatives are i) PCM/phone system (which I'll replace) - just totally lame. ii) I miss the volts on the gauges. I'm confused by oil vs water temp: the dealer says it's good to go if the water is at 175, even if the oil temp hasn't changed. That just doesn't seem right to my simple mind! iii) I want a dipstick, was very surprised to learn it was abandoned for the 997 onwards. My final impression is that the 997.1 is yet another incremental engineering triumph over it's predecessor. The performance, reliability, fit and finish, luxuriousness are so obviously much better, it's a wonderful drive but....it's bigger, feels heavier. The 996 is noticeably smaller and though 11 lbs/hp vs 10 lbs/hp, it seemed just...tighter. I liked keeping both hands on the wheel, loved the Tiptronic both in rush hour and in the hills. So, after 3 months I'm seriously wondering whether I'm the right person for this car...

As the bearing cannot easily be upgraded, removing the rear seal will allow continuous splash lubrication by the sump oil, eliminating the "trapped oil breakdown" pathway to bearing failure. We have several customers running this way with no problems. Hi JFP in PA, I believe my engine has the IMS version that requires splitting the case to access it. Can you say if just prising off the cover (to allow splash lube) is a realistic option for me? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel

Isn't this a well-known 'issue' for GT3s? I'm sure I heard there's a cable in the driver door that harmonizes around 3000 rpm (I think it was most pronounced at 3300 rpm). BTW I'm a 996/997.1 driver, so a large sack of salt might be advisable!

Thanks again JFP.If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.

JFP, Silver TT and Spiffyjiff, Thanks for your answers - I'm reassured the dealer likely didn't mess with the logs! And another question: I've a persistent 'C102 Seat Memory CAN Single Wire (Comfort)' error code? (This is a 2007 997.1 C2S cabrio). Which might be something real, as the seat memory buttons don't seem to behave the same as they did on my old 996 (even after reading the manual) With thanks in advance, Nigel

My Enthusiast Durametic cable arrived last night: I wanted to check the over rev history, if there was any. Surprisingly (to me at least!), IR1 and IR2 had a few events, but nothing in IR3-IR6. The car is a 2007 997.1 C2S cabrio, had 11,400 mileson it when I got it a month ago. Questions are: 1 is no over revs in IR3-IR6 suspicious of someone having gone in and cleaned up the log file? (This came from a P-dealer whom I don't fully trust...) 2 any ideas where I can find a PDF list of all the codes and some idea of how to interpret them? As always, with thanks in advance, Nigel

Thx Richard!

Hoping someone out there knows the answer to this one. I'm the lucky new owner of a 997 C2S cabrio, without satnav, with Sport Chrono Plus package. Though I can find references to ability to change some functions (like the lights off delay), can't for the life of me find the menu tree for these preferences. Is there an ALT-CNTRL-SHFT-DEL equivalent I need to know about? With thanks in advance...Nigel

This wasn't In Livermore, CA was it? Sounded eerily similar to my experience: won a free valet at a PCA event. When I picked the car up the OBC was fried: they wanted $3700 to fix it! I got PCNA involved, and it was eventually resolved satisfactorily.