MNBoxster

Hi, Sorry, confused here. I got the Plugs for my Lotus Esprit from Pep Boys (NGK BPR6ES) for $2.00@. I actually got the Bosch FR7LDC4 Plugs for my Boxster for $3.19@ (still quite a saving over Dealer retail) from Eagle-Day - http://shop.store.yahoo.com/eagleday/993bilovaco.html Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, Not to start Flame Wars, but we can go on Point-Counterpoint all day. The fact is you have made a claim that using the 4417 plugs for 30k mi. had no ill effects. I stated that the plugs do not have the correct color for proper combustion, an ill effect in my book. Granted a sparkplug is a Snapshot in time, but this is the picture you have. Does the CEL issue explain it away? Plugs take on the effect of the A/F mixture near instantaneously and will change as the conditions do. If the CEL issue was corrected, this should be immediately seen in the plugs (within 5-10 miles). All I know from the pic is that they are running Hot, perhaps due to a lean condition, perhaps due to improper Heat Range, or both. Plugs have basically 3 classifications: Good, Fouled (Cool), or Hot . Neither you nor I can say that the plugs weren't that way all along. Also, I am somewhat disconcerted that Porsche specifies a Heat Range for the various Models, Markets, Engines, etc., but Bosch seems to spec this plug to run the whole gamut, including many other engines and makes. I don't agree with letting the plugs go 30k mi., but that is debatable. So far as my source for the plugs, I'll dig out my receipt and forward the info to you offline. I think it was at Pep Boys. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

I have included the Bosch designation code(s), but the Platinum +4 and +2 don't follow these guides, as you mention. I have sent an email to their Technical Dept. and will report back on their reply. See attached. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, I sit corrected. I assumed he was referring to the Hydraulic Seals.:huh: Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

@ kevinC, We have a couple disagreements. But, to start, I concede that you are correct about water being in solution for DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 Fluids and that only using DOT5 (which you should never do) will the water remain separate. I further concede that the Service Interval is due mainly to the breakdown of the corrosion inhibitors which are added to the fluid during manufacture, and not moisture related at all. The amount of moisture entering the system is determined almost totally by environmental conditions. However, to begin, you assume that the fluid in the container is dry to begin with. To be sure, a certain amount of moisture does enter any non-metal container simply through diffusion. What amount would depend upon how long the container had been filled/stored, under what conditions, and of course the composition of the material used in the container. But, while as you state, the boiling point of water changes in solution, it's effect on the boiling point of that solution (in this case Polyalkylene Glycol Ether based Brake Fluid) is to decrease it. And this decrease can be DRAMATIC - as much as 30% for some Brands of DOT3 and DOT4 for systems containing in excess of 3% water content, bringing the Wet Boiling Point to the 280°-350° range. A Street Car can easily experience Fluid temps at the caliper of 450°-500° for brief periods resulting in some fluid boiling. The relevant relationship is not the WET Boiling Temp/H²O Boiling Temp, it is WET Boiling Temp/Caliper Temp or more precisely Caliper Piston Temp which is almost the same (I have measured this with Temp Strips on the Pad Backing Plate and Caliper Body). A funny thing about Fluid Boils is that they change the chemical composition of the fluid, and though once cool will return most of their properties. But, each time the fluid boils, it's boiling point lowers a little further making it easier to boil the next time. The published WET boiling point is determined under Lab conditions at 3.7% Moisture Content and no consideration for the effects of Service Life are made (and Polyalkylene Glycol Ethers do degrade with time). BTW, your analogy of Ethylene-Glycol in a cooling system is not relevant as this is a Closed, Pressurized System and it is the increase in the pressure (often 1 additional ATM) which increases the vapor pressure and prevents boilover much more so than the chemical composition. Fluid being Hygroscopic is, believe it or not, a design function of the fluid and a good thing. Again, moisture enters the system through diffusion (through the rubber hoses, seals and reservoir) as well as air which leaks past seals, all containing moisture. Another source is through condensation as the brakes are continually exposed to cyclic Hot/Cold. The fluid is designed to absorb this moisture and so to lower the local concentration which lessens Oxidation (corrosion). It is totally subjective whether stressing the importance of insuring the best possible fluid for a change is paranoia or not. But, the SAE estimates that 50% of all cars 10 years old or older have Never had their fluid changed (can you imagine the numbers relevant to these cars). And, according to DOT figures, the average age of cars on the road today is 10 years. Still think it not important to stress proper, regular Maintenance? PEACE! Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, A few pointers about sparkplugs: The advantage of using a Platinum Plug isn't one of Performance, they add nothing, zero, nada over the OEM plugs. The advantage of using Platinum Plugs is that the electrode tip can withstand higher heat and so last longer and the Service Interval is increased. A spark plug's Heat Range has no relationship on the actual voltage transferred through the spark plug. Rather, the Heat Range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors: The length of the ceramic center insulator nose The insulator nose's ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat The material composition of the insulator The material composition of the center electrode The longer the insulator nose, a larger surface area is exposed to combustion gasses and heat is dissipated slowly. This also means the firing end heats up more quickly. That is, the exposed ceramic length, not extended tip length. The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where the insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. No matter what the plugs are installed in, be it a lawnmower, a boat, your daily driver or your race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 450°C to 850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 450°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to deter fouling and carbon deposit build-ups, causing misfires. If the tip temperature exceeds 850°C, the spark plug will overheat which can cause the ceramic around the the center electrode to blister as well as the electrodes will begin to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plugs, the differences from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. The firing end appearance also depends on the spark plug tip temperature. There are three basic diagnostic criteria for spark plugs: good, fouled, and overheated. The borderline between the fouling and optimum operating regions (450°C) is called the spark plug self-cleaning temperature. This is the temperature point where the accumulated carbon and combustion deposits are burned off automatically. Bearing in mind that the insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the heat must travel into the cylinder head water journals and to the ambient engine compartment air. This means that the plug has a higher internal temperature, and is said to be a "Hot" plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no relationship to spark quality, intensity, or performance. Conversely, a "Cold" spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range can be necessary when an engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or it is run at high RPMs for significant periods of time. The higher cylinder pressures developed by high compression, large camshafts, blowers and nitrous oxide, not to mention the RPM ranges we run our engines at while racing, make colder plugs mandatory to eliminate plug overheating and engine damage. The colder type plug removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the chance of pre-ignition/detonation and burn-out of the firing end. (Engine temperatures can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plug's heat range). But, back on point, considering that changing the sparkplugs is possibly the cheapest, and one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can do to a car, why would you want to keep the same plugs for 50k miles? For only $10-$20 you can change the plugs regularly to insure everything is in top tune. If on the other hand, you increase the Service Interval, a failed plug can go unoticed (due to a cracked Insulator or broken electrode, etc.) for tens of thousands of miles! I change the plugs on all my Fun cars annually at the start of the season. This means they are replaced at about 5k mi. It's easy and cheap, why not be sure they're always in Top Form! Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, If they are not leaking, leave them alone. You raise the potential of having a problem if you change the seal. You may make a mistake, or the new seal may have a defect. It's only worth taking this risk if they're leaking and you have to do it. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, One last thing about the PLatinum plugs. I have spoken with a couple of techs who have seen the platinum electrode tip come loose and do some bad things. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

HI, I have actual knowledge of open brake fluid containers becoming moisture laden after only a few weeks. Of course, ambient humidity has a lot to do with it. In AZ I wouldn't be so concerned. I have no disagreement with Porsche's Service Interval of 2 years (for regular Street Use), but this system has a vent and the moisture can come and go from the system. No system can be sealed, so there will be some contamination. My concern is not giving the process a helping hand by starting with bad fluid. But, the Interval is inadequate if you are tracking the car at all. I flush and Bleed the brakes on my Formula Vee before every race/track session (reverse power bleeding). While the fluid you mention has a high WET boiling point, there's still a couple issues if the moisture content exceeds 4%. First, even though the fluid won't boil, the moisture in it will. This moisture effectively turns to steam, a gas. And we all know that a gas is much more compressible than a fluid. So, best case, less of the force you impart to the pedal actually acts on the caliper, while much of it is used to compress the Steam Bubble in the system. Also, don't forget, water is heavier than glycol based fluids. It will migrate to the low spot in the system which is usually right at the caliper itself. This has two problems, first it is very close to the hottest part of the system - the caliper (which can reach temps of 1,000°+) and so will boil very quickly and second, the corrosion in the steel pistons and bores is much faster than the corrosion to the nickel/zinc coated lines. Finally, at 4%+ moisture content, you are accelerating the corrosion to the caliper bore and pistons considerably. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, I would never trust it to last 2 years even unopened. We're not talking about hermetically sealed Nuclear Waste Containers here. The Plastic Bottle and cap just aren't that good, even with the foil seal. Also, while the bottle itself won't allow the fluid to permeate, it isn't that good when it comes to air/moisture. Granted, if you buy from a shop, you don't know how long or under what conditions it was stored before you bought it either, but it's a better bet that it'll be uncontaminated. Even the air pocket in the bottle can contribute to the contamination, not only from moisture, but from oxidation (Glycol based fluids do react with Oxygen). This is why Motul fills the 'air' cavity with Nitrogen and why they use a metal container. Is it worth the extra $$ ??? Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

Hi, Maybe it's a bad picture, but the Bosche Plugs appear to have run slightly more Lean. Either that, or their Heat Range is too high. The Beru's above look to have the perfect Combustion Color. Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

:lightbulb: Hi, Since getting my Boxster, I have been looking for an additional 6 disc Magazine for the CD Player (CDC-3). The Dealer wanted some outrageous amount for one and they're scarce. I had come across someone stating there was a SONY cross reference for this cartridge, but I could never get a model #. Anyway, on a lark, I bid on a SONY CD magazine on UK eBay which looked from the item descr. pics to be VERY similar. I won for $1 + S/H. I didn't know if it would work, but figured if it didn't, back onto eBay it'd go. It arrived today and it is an exact clone save that it is stamped SONY rather than PORSCHE. The Model # is Compact Disc Magazine XA-T6 . I have already tested it in the car and it works perfectly. Just thought I'd pass this info along to those interested. I have seen several of these on eBay, so apparently the SONY model is more abundant and considerably less expensive. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, I have a 99MY boxster also, and there are differences between the '99 and '01. 1. I'm unclear as to what you mean. I believe you mean that the digitals don't light up unless the car's headlights are on? There is a Rheostat for the instrument display and this may be set at it's lowest. It is the Clock Set knob. When you set the Clock, you must first push this knob, then turning the knob will alter the Clock. If you do not push the knob in, it is in the Rheostat or dimmer mode. Turning it clockwise/anti-clockwise changes the intensity of the instument illumination. 2. There is no Boot Ajar Warning Light. 3. On the MY99, the digital Speedometer readout is below the Tach in the Center dial. 4. The Warning Light labled CAT is a Fault Indicator for the Catalytic Converter. You should only see it upon the Light Check upon startup or if the O² Sensors indicate a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter (OBDII) Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

How about drilling or burning out the sheared studs with a torch and putting in bolt/nut combos? <this is a question-not a suggestion> It has been my experience on american cars that ALL header bolts and studs break as the heat advances rust and destroys the threaded rod. Extremely rusty exhaust bolts (unlike say headbolts), not only snap but tend to 'weld' themselves into place so that easy out techniques don't seem to work. The boxster seems to be no different. There is ample space and access for bolt/nut sets. Replacing a stud with a stud, especially after helicoil, pretty much guarantees you will break it again next time you need to take apart the system. This has to be one of the most common problems seen by a muffler shop, what do they usually do? Cut off the flange? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi, While this sounds counter-intuitive, there is a big difference between using a Bolt and a Stud/Nut combinaton. You may be aware that all threaded fasteners are elastic. Applying a specified torque to the fastener stretches it and this is what holds it in place (if not, vibration would simply work it loose over time). The Bolt imparts this stretch over the entire length of it's threaded shaft, which a Nut will not do. Especially for something as torque sensitive as an exhaust seal, the Bolt is the fastener for the job. So far as using penetrants, I recommend 'PB Blaster'. Unlike a traditional penetrating oil, 'PB Blaster' contains enzymes which literally 'eat' the corrosion away in addition to lubricating the fastener. This would be especially helpful on an exhaust fastener. Use it liberally and let it work for 24 hrs. or more, reapplying a couple of times, no heat or you kill the enzymes. Then, you may find an 'Easy Out' will work just fine. "A man's got to know his limitations" - Clint Eastwood (Magnum Force - 1973). If you believe you are capable of properly drilling the broken Bolt Shaft to accept an 'Easy Out', by all means give it a go (after a thorough soaking w/ 'PB Blaster' as mentioned above). If not, then let the pros do it - it'll be cheaper in the long run. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, I use a 3 ton Craftsman Hydraulic Floor Jack, Model #102980. I also use a Jack Tool which slips in place of the traditional heel of the jack and accepts the Porsche jacking point. This jack is low enough for both my Lotus Esprit and my Boxster. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, I'm not sure you have opened the 2nd Litre of fluid, but your post reads as if you may have. FYI, Brake Fluid is Hygroscopic, meaning that it pulls moisture from the air. As such, once it is opened and exposed to the air, it's moisture content can raise significantly in literally a matter of minutes. Therefore, any container of Brake Fluid which has been opened, and resealed, has a shelf life of less than one month. After that, it's moisture content is so questionable that you should not use it. Topping up from such a container will only contaminate the fluid in your Brake System. Even an unopened container should be kept no longer than 6 mos. as their caps aren't the best seal and the presence of air in the container (except Motul which top-fills their containers with Nitrogen). This is why you need to change your Brake Fluid every two years. A recent study by the SAE, testing 1500 cars bought new 18 mos. ago found an average of 4% moisture content in their Brake Fluid (and a high of 7%!). To put this into perspective, Castrol LMA Brake Fluid has a DRY (<3% moisture content) Boiling temp of 550°, but a WET (>3% moisture content) Boiling Temp of 218°. That means if you are using Castrol LMA w/ a 4% or greater moisture content, you may as well be running pure H²O through your system so far as Braking efficiency is concerned. In addition, flushing the system every 2 years removes any accumulated corrosion and will make your seals, lines and calipers last much longer. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, Is the bolt broken at the head, flush with the surface of the head? If so, as mentioned an 'Easy Out' is likely your best bet. If the bolt shaft is broken below the head surface, you may not be able to use the 'Easy Out' because drilling the bolt shaft could damage the tap in the Head. You need to be VERY careful in drilling the broken bolt shaft. Make sure you use a starter punch and align it squarely on the bolt shaft. If you don't, there a high likelyhood that your drill bit will wander and take out the threads in the Head. If you screw it up, it'll cost $$$$. You will likely need to helicoil it and this could be somewhat tenuous given the location, high-temp environment and the torque value. Unless you have a lot of experience (and no offense, it doesn't sound like it, just from the nature of your post), since the car runs, I'd suggest having this done at a shop. I think you'll be better off. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, I assume you have chosen a spot in the Main Instrument Cover (surrounding the Climate Control). Since you'll be working with the car's electrics, it's best to disconnect the Battery (be sure you have your radio code). Next, remove the Main Instrument Panel cover by carefully prying it from the bottom (you may be able to do this with your fingers, if not, carefully use a small screwdriver. The cover is just snapped in place. Now, remove the blanking plug for the hole you've chosen, again a small screwdriver from the backside and pry the blank out. Now install the switch from the backside of the Instrument Panel and push it firmly until you hear a click and it's flush with the Panel. Route the wiring harness to the left, under the dash (using wire ties to secure it) and down along the left wall by the Fusebox. This harness should have 3 longer wires (Red, White, Brown) and 2 shorter wires (Red, Black). Remove the Fusebox cover and remove the 4 Phillips Screws holding the Fusebox in place. Run your wiring behind the carpeting and behind the Fusebox. Pull the electrical connector from the back of the spoiler switch. You will see 3 female connectors inside - 2 parallel to each other and one perpendicular to the first two. Hold the connector so the 2 parrallel connectors are to the left. Now plug the Red wire connector from the Wiring Harness into the top parallel connector, Plug the White wire into the Bottom Parallel connector and finally the Brown wire into the remaining (perpendicular) connector. Carefully tuck everything out of the way and reinstall the Fusebox using the 4 Phillips screws. Reattach the Fusebox cover. The remaining wires in the Wiring Harness (shorter than the other 3) are the Illumumination Wires to light up the switch. Using a crimp connector (or splice) attach the red wire to any Blue/Gray wire and the Black wire to any Brown wire near the Radio Panel. For simplicity's sake, you can trace the Illumination wires from another switch and splice into these. (or you can simply not illuminate the switch). Push Main Instrument Panel back in place. Now, reconnect the Battery and check the switch for operation. The switch is a Momentary ON switch, that is, you must press and hold the switch until the spoiler is fully extended/retracted. You can hear the spoiler raising, or simply hold the switch for a 3-4 count (sufficient time to raise/lower the spoiler). Punch in your Radio Code and you're done. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

TP, Cows Fall From The Sky... film at 11:00! ;) I almost NEVER find myself in disagreement with you. But on this one, I do. There is a significant difference in the two Prestone Anit-Freezes you describe. The Yellow, is normal AF which contains Phosphates and is therefore Porsche Incompatible. The Prestone 5/150 is Phosphate-Free (Substituting Nitrates as the anti-corrosion agents) and therefore is Porsche Compatible. The chemical comparison you made is from those listed on the WARNING label, not a full Ingredient List. They share many common ingredients, but not all. The difference is quite significant. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, The Dash Indicator is a Fault Indicator, not a Deployment Indicator. It registers a Fault at start-up because the ECU needs to speed calibrate itself (to insure deployment of the Spoiler at the proper speed). It cannot do this until the car has moved approx. 3MPH, so technically, until the car reaches this speed, there is a fault in the system. The Spoiler cannot be seen from the Driver's Seat, but should it fail to deploy, you'll definitely feel it, the back end can get pretty squirrely. The Spoiler deploys at 75MPH and retracts at 50MPH. It provides no downforce whatever. Rather, as it's name implies, it spoils the airflow travelling over the boot. If it didn't, this flow would generate lift, which is why it gets loose without it. Also, Porsche claims that the Spoiler, once deployed, also reduces Drag an additional 0.04. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, Sorry to hear of your trouble. It does sound as if the thing requires further cable adjustment. Also, have they checked the Control Unit for faults and reset it? The flashing 4th gear indicator is a fault indicator. You may not have reverese if the Reverse Lockout is malfunctioning. See my post - http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6025 You do have a Reverse Lockout on the tranny, with it being out of adjustment, you may just have this lockout engaged preventing reverse operation. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 (w/ TipS)

OK, Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here are a couple of the Aftermarket CF Sill Guards I got. They were $125/pr. They do not wrap around the edge of the sill, but placed close to the edge do provide pretty good protection and have a nice look. Much better, in fact, than my lousy DigiCam. Anyone interested, msg. me offlist and I can provide the info. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, You won't maximize ride quality switching to 19" wheels. I believe these have a 30 Aspect Ratio Tire, which will give a very harsh ride by comparison. Also, tire replacement cost will be as much as 20% higher. You'll be adding weight - Unsprung Weight (over the 18's) for both the wheel and tire. This effectively lowers the Spring Rates and increases Rotational Inertia (a hindrance to acceleration and Braking) - Inverse to what most Enthusiasts are looking for. Aesthetically, they're little different than 18's so far as filling-in the Wheel Wells. As for performance, only the slightest improvement will be seen on the Limit (how much time do you realistically spend there?) at a cost of poorer ride quality in all driving conditions. Try driving a car with 19's as a comparison. I have. My verdict... Stick with the 18's! Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, One thing to consider is that installing a Sill Guard can begin an endless cycle. Whichever you choose, instead of the sill taking the abuse, it is going to be the Sill Guard which takes the punishment. Eventually, whether SS, Aluminum or CF, it is gonna look raggy once it gets all scratched and gouged. The SS and Aluminum can be buffed out to some extent (with the exception of the Logo), but the CF is gonna be the most difficult to restore (Ironic since this is the most expensive alternative). I have CF Sill Guards installed on my Boxster. It is an aftermarket piece which does not fold over the edge of the Sill, but just sits on top. If positioned to the edge, it provides good protection. The upside is that this set only cost $125. It is genuine CF with a Boxster logo set deep in the resin. When it gets too shoddy looking, I'll probably just pitch it, but it is a fairly functional, good-looking, Dress-up Item. If interested, I will post a pic and a link. Considering the expense and the sacrificial nature of all these Guards, the best alternative would probably be to repaint the sills every couple years or so. Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Hi, With only 500 mi. on it, I'd keep a watchful eye on it. It is probably nothing, perhaps just the rings getting seated. On the other hand, Machinery has a tendency to fail either in it's Infancy or from Old Age. This usually relates to a defect(s) in the part(s) or improper assembly in the case of the former, or just plain wearing out in the case of the latter. In either event, make sure you follow the Break-in recommendations, including the first oil change and as I said, keep a watchful eye on it. Also, I would mention it, in writing, to the Dealer to cover your Butt should the issue not shortly resolve itself and you start playing the Warranty Game. Good Luck! Happy Motoring!... Jim'99