Kanin

FBDO??? Sorry did not get that .... I may be making a fool out of my self but thought I would ask any way :) Finally got to test the car with the Varicam+ solenoids disconnected and it ran even worse than before. Maybe a wild guess but does any of you have some experiance if a bad flywheel with missing teeth could create this kind of problems? I still have the old original flywheel from th 2.5 engine. Will now investigate the MAF signal through the piggy back system and see if the output is right. I have also decided that I will be starting the 7.8 DME upgrade as it is very dificult to troubleshoot with the piggyback system. Now collecting all the parts I need and should hopefully be able to start the project next week. - Kanin

Hi, Yes checked and it did get the signal at about the right rpm when iddle. Why I thought it may be linked to mixture or MAF signal problem. However not sure what happens when on the road. I guess the easiest is to disconnect the variocam+ solenoids and see if it changes anything. Ok I will try that tonight probably a good way to eliminate them. The background is that the car was with a body shop for a month or so. I was getting a GT3 style bumper on the car. When I got it back it was like this. Not sure what happened. I have already changed the MAF sensor as I thought dust may have had something to do with it. - Kanin

Hi, Finally got the time to change the AOS. Also cleaned the throttle body and Idle control valve. Blue smoke is gone and the car is much more responsive however it did not help me with my original problem. It still looses power and exhaust starts popping as soon as I put load on it. It must be linked to Variocam+ but no idea what it could be. I Will try to check for air leaks again. Maybe MAF signal calibration as wayne suggested. If anyone has any suggestions I am open for those ...... - Kanin

Thanks for input Wayne - great article by the way it is in my favorites now :) I had the car running spot on untill this happenned. The MAF signal is modified thorugh a piggyback system and should as such at least go back to what it used to be. In any case I think I need to take this step by step and eliminate the problems I find. AOS first and then air leak as you suggested. Will keep you posted on progress. - Kanin

Hi again Thought I would give you all an update. After several attempts I have not been able to solve the problem. Even after changing the timing solenoid lift solenoid, MAF sensor and visit to the Porsche specialist. Yesterday night 1am in the morning after reading many threads here I stumbled on the AOS problems and thought I would check and guess what the hose between the AOS and Throttle Body is full of Oil. Ordering a new AOS and cleaning the intake tomorrow and hoping this solves it. In my case the symptoms were so different from what I have heard before. The power loss in the engine was drastic like hitting the rev limiter. When driving slow and easy no problems. As soon as I pushed it would almost loose all acceleration and power. I even had miss fires. In any case I am hoping this is it. I may have more than one problem but first things first. I am hoping I can confirm that the problem is solved in a couple of days. - Kanin

Hi Todd Quick question. Will the solenoids click even when taken off the car? thought I will take them off and check them. - Kanin

Hi Todd Thanks for quick response. If I remember correctly I think they are getting a +12V from the second relay. The piggy back activating grnd activates the second relay. When checking the solenoids they seamed to be getting the +12V when they are supposed to. This remind me I did not check the grnd on them so could be a problem with the grnd. Let me do some digging tomorrow and get back to you and I will also check that the solenoids are working. Kanin

Hi, I hope someone can help. Todd you still around? Under load engine power drops and it starts popping do not understand what is wrong. Alo no power with full throttle in low revs. Looked for the obvious: - MAF changed - No air leaks detected - Coil packs checked and changed any cracket - O2 sensors working - Changed the Cam Shaft sensor - Tried to change the variocam+ solenoids which did not have any effect running out of ideas what could it be? Thanks, Kanin

Yep...Tholyoak is the dude u want to talk to. He really hepled us at with our conversion..........there's not much he does'nt know. Kanin.

Hi, We have done this 3.6 conversion into our Boxster. Got good power out of it. Kanin.

Hi Guy's, Firstly, we have just completed a 3.6 996 conversion into a 1997 Boxster, its not that difficult at all. Yes, the 996 is e-gas and the boxster is cable operated but that easily taken care of by using a 3.4 non e-gas throttle body. But if ur boxster is egas, then you should'nt have any probs at all. As for the transmision, u do't need a 996 unit, you can use the 986 gearbox, it will mate-up perfectly but you will have to use the 986 flywheel and clutch. The are a few other mods that you need to do but no real biggies, all the parts needed are transfered over from the 986 motor and so on. You do use the orignal boxster harness for this conversion with miner modification, The real obstacle is getting the variocam+ to work, we used an external management moudule to operate the timing solenoids, u can however have a chat with a chap called "Tholyoak" from this forum, he has also completed a 3.6 conversion into his boxster but has developed a way to integrate the original 3.6 996 DME into the boxster. This guy really know's his stuff and has really hepled us through our project...top guy. the other thing, since your car is egas, I take it its a 2.7 or a 3.2. Our car was a 2.5, so in terms of the DME, we used a 996 3.4 unit, its the same part number as a post 98 986 2.5 dme except it is obviously flashed with the 3.4 file, we did this so we could operate the actuator for the resonance valve: 2.5 boxster don't have one. By the way, we originally swapped our 2.5 motor with an egas 3.2 before the 3.6 swap, so that is why we replaced our DME with a 3.4, just so we could activate the resonave valve and have better fueling and timing maps from the 3.4 file then the standard 2.5 DME. If we would have known that we were gonna do i 3.6 swap at somepoint, we would have just purchased a piggyback system, we could have also activated the resonace valve and sorted out the fueling and timing. Yours on the other hand, being a 2.7 or 3.2, will have the resonace valve therefore the DME is already programmed to activate this valve. So if I was in your shoes I would use a aftermarket piggyback system to sort out the timing and fueling maps for the variocam+, its easily done if u know what your doing.........is'nt that right Todd? :P The conversion is not too difficult to do at all but poduces unbelievable power, well worth the agro.

Hi, I meant if you were interested in selling the boxster? If you are planning a 3.4 conversion then that is probably the best route, we are in the middle of doing a 3.6 conversion in our boxster, should be up and running in the weekend. If I remember correctly, the main obstacle for the 2.7 and 3.2 conversions into a 2.5 boxster is the activation of the resonance valve. You need someone who can re-programme your original 2.5 DME with the 3.4 file, this is easily done with a porcshe system tester. Only post '98 boxter dme's can be reprogrammed, ours was a 1997 so we basically used a 3.4 996 dme, which is the same dme as the 2.5 boxsters, only difference being the fueling and timing files. if the car runs too rich with the 3.4 file once programmed then there is a quick fix to lean it off if needed. the other thing is that the 2.5 were throttle cable operated, the 2.7 and 3.2 is e-gas. you could replace the throttle body on the 2.7 or 3.2 with the one from the 2.5, will need a bit of modding or u could do what we did and was to use a 996 3.4 cable operated throttle. works perfect either way. the other thing would be the fuel return on the 2.5. if the 2.7 or 3.2 is a later engine then the chance are that it will not have a fuel return connection on the fuel rail. This is easily fixed but you will have to cross that bridge when you have the engine...........if u need to that is. I think that is pretty much it, all the other neccesary parts needed can be switched over from your 2.5, i.e exhaust, coolant hoses (if needed), wiring etc. Let me know about the car, if you are interested dude. thanks.

Hi there, I have done a 3.2s conversion into a 1997 2.5 boxster in the past. It is the same installation process as a 2.7. It is easily done but u do need a few things. do you already have the 2.7 engine? are you still interested in selling the dead 2.5 boxster as it is? thanks.

Hi Dude, We had the same decsion to make, we have a 1997 2.5 Boxster and were not too happy with the power it was pushing out. We were thinking of replacing it with a 996 but the boxster was in "as new" condition and had very low mileage. And clean 996's in similar condition are considerably more expensive to buy. In the end we got offered a very good deal on a 3.2 s boxster engine with only 18k on the clock. We ripped the 2.5 running gear out of the boxster and grafted the 3.2 in with a few mods. Car then produced 240 BHP on the rollers with the standard 2.5 headers and exhaust and I tell u it was like a different car. The car now has a lot more power and pulls effortlessly through the gears compared to the stock 2.5. It was well worth it and much cheaper than forking out for a decent 996. But now, we are lucky enough to get hold of a low mileage 3.6 996 engine :clapping: and have now started to convert the 3.2. The 3.2 has only been in the car for a few months but like u guy's said: if u want a 3.2 u could always go out and buy a 3.2 s. A 3.6, or even a 3.4, in a Boxster is always gonna be that little bit special! ;) If u do go down the route of a conversion then go for the 3.4 or even 3.6. We only went down the route of the 3.2 because we got a really good deal on the engine at that time. Good luck mate. Kanin

hi mate, saw your post, thought my input my help you out. Have you had the oil cooler checked for oil and water mixing? To diagnose possible head gasket failure's on cars, I use a cumbustion chamber leak detector from SNAP-ON. It's basically a chemical which, when mixed with coolant from your car, changes colour if combustion fumes are detected. If the chemical changes colour then I'm afraid it's not good news...some where combustion fumes are entering the cooling system which means it's either: blown headgasket crack in the cylinder block The snap-on part number is GDCT16. I've been using this for a while and has always been accurate. It should retail for around $100, which may be cheaper than paying a mechanic. hope this helps.