Danws09890

Maurice, To answer your first question: We secured a piece of plastic in the area where the sliver lever attaches to the micro-switch, then super glued into place. It's looking like it will hold. Also, i did notice the lid had gone up slightly with completely closing. I will look to make the adjustment to the silver lever today. Dan: Good that you have made some progress and are getting familiar with the mechanism. Your current symptoms sound like the V-levers are "over-rotating", probably because the double relay is getting the signal from the B-Pillar microswitch a little too late in the cycle. You may be able to make an adjustment by carefully bending that little silver lever on the B-Pillar microswitch so that the part of the B-Pillar on the frame that trips it makes contact a split second earlier. That will cut power to the motor just a little earlier and that will then stop the rotation of the V-levers. Two questions: 1. When you say that you had the little silver leg on the microswitch "fixed", exactly what did you do? 2. When the top is almost all the way closed, does it start to come back slightly before the pushrods pop off the steel balls at the base of the B-Pillars? Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice, I have had some progress with the convertible top. My uncle and I had realized that the small silver lever on the miroswitch broke off. We had fixed it. After the problem was solved the top was able to go back up. The only problem now is that the pushrods that attach to the roof pop off. We adjusted the length on either side several times(shortening and lengthening the pushrods) Then we tired closing it with the pushrods loose and not tightening (the adjustment section of the pushrods) I realized that the nut that needs to be tighened was at different points of each pushrod. They ofcourse did not pop off when they were loose, but once I tightened them, the same problem occurred when trying to close the roof all the way. Any suggestion? Thanks in Advance -Dan

Maurice, I am at a stand still. I had used the power drill to move the v-levers, both V-levers moved both ways. I might of moved each side like a couple inches. I used a ruler to see if both v-levers were even(they weren't), then ajusted each v-lever(with power drill) to be about the same position as the other side. When i went to close the top all the way (all linkages connected) The front rods disconnected again . I believe the adjustment i made with the power drill was wrong. Worst of all when i tryed to open the lid manually (as it worked before) I broke a connecting arm on one side and then popped out the hydrolic pushrod out of the ball on the other side.(slightly bending the v-Lever. I deffinty srewed up a bit. I have a guy that will most likely sent me a new control arm. I provided pictures of the distruction below. Can you explain to me how to step by step how to adjust the v-levers. Thanks again for all your help so far. -Dan <a href="http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/danws09890/?action=view&current=IMG_0224.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/danws09890/IMG_0224.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/danws09890/?action=view&current=IMG_0223.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f268/danws09890/IMG_0223.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Muarice, I Heard that noise your talking about.I did not check if the light went out. Do i need to rotate both cords attached to the eletric motor? Would it be clockwise or counter-clockwise? Thanks again for the Help. Hoping to solve this problem soon! Dan: If by "the linkages popped out" you mean that the plastic ball cups popped off their steel balls, that, coupled with the top not wanting to open again, probably means that the V-levers have over-rotated. When that happens, they are sort of "locked up" and they won't usually go back in the other direction. The over-rotation is usually accompanied by a loud bang (either on one side or on both sides), which is what happens when the half-moon gear (only in the "A Version" transmissions) goes past its 50th tooth and is pulled back sharply by the black "hydraulic" pushrod. Did the "top open" idiot light on the dash go out when the top closed completely? If so, do the side windows drop the 4 inches when you pull down the latch? You should "unrotate" the V-levers by using the cordless drill on the LOWEST torque setting, until you can determine whether the small silver lever on the B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted so it trips a split second earlier. That should stop the rotation slightly earlier and prevent the problem you are experiencing now. Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, I have gotten the clamshell open by pressing the button and at the same time manually opening it. I was then able to operate the top elertonicly. I moved it up and down a bit. Then we connected the linkages( they did not apear broken). We then closed the top all the way, but it would not eleronicly open again. The linkages popped out right before the top closed. Then we opened it again manually. Is my next Step to "unrotate" the transmission using a power drill? What is your advice from this point? Thank you in advance -Dan

Maurice, Thanks again, ill update the progress as i get into this project. -Dan Dan: To replace the foam drain trays, you will have to remove the entire top and frame assembly. That is a relatively straightforward DIY: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97 Start at page 17, in Part II of the PDF at the bottom of the article. If you get the transmissions synchronized, the only other possible adjustments would be to the lever on the B-Pillar microswitch (so that it triggers the switch at exactly the right moment when the top is reaching the completely closed position) and to the overall length of the front pushrods (so that it mates up evenly with the top of the windshield frame). Again, be careful to document the position of the V-levers before removing them so that you don't accidentally install them upside down. Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the information. I will probably need to switch out the foam lining because after heavy rain water gets inside. I will do some investigating into the types of transmissions i have. I'm looking to start this project this week. After i adjust the transmissions with the power drill and connect the linkages, would there be anymore adjustments necessary in this type of situation? -Dan Dan: No problem... Glad if I can help you get your roof back to working condition. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the most difficult, this is about a 4 or 5, with patience being the one quality that will make it doable. If your dad has some mechanical experience, I can walk you through most of it with the help of some photos. The roof open light dimming is a good clue that usually means that the V-levers have "over-rotated" and must be "unrotated" by using a cordless drill on the inner speedometer-type cables that are inside of the black vinyl sheaths (after you pull them out of each side of the electric motor). This is a problem that usually only occurs on 1997 to 1999 Boxsters because of the design of the large half-moon gear inside each transmission, so you'll have to do some more investigation to determine which of the two versions of transmissions and two versions of microswitches and double relays you have. IIRC, earlier posts in this thread discuss the difference between the two so that you can identify the one you have. The 19mm bolt is the one in the first pic, and that is the one that holds the V-lever onto the transmission. The "disconnected linkage" actually looks like one of your plastic ball cups has broken apart and thus that side of the canvas top frame is no longer being driven by the V-lever. In other words, your front pushrod is no longer connected. Note that it is possible for the top to operate with a broken front pushrod on one side. One word of caution...BE VERY SURE to inspect your foam drain trays, especially the one on the side where the broken pushrod is. That pushrod ends up dangling as the top goes through its cycle and digs in and tears or rips the drain tray. That will inevitably result in water getting into the floorboards of the cabin, where it will find its way to your central alarm computer under the driver's seat. That's an expensive repair, so the foam drain tray must be replaced or repaired with sealant. The bend at the tops of your black pushrods don't appear to be bent abnormally, but it will be easier to determine it definitively once you get them out and take new photos. The fact that you see a part of the shiny portion of the black pushrod means that the pushrods are indeed under pressure at this point... So, be careful, when you release the pressure by unbolting the 19mm bolt. Regards, Maurice.

The linkage in the first pic is the one which is disconnected. The next couple pics show the bend at the top of the cylinders. I also noticed the roof open light dimmed when i pressed the roof open button. Is the 19mm bolt the one clearly pictured in the first pic? I want to do this myself and probably my father will help. The previous owner said the pulleys were changed to the updated ones (2001)he says the roof probably needs an adjustment. Whats the difficulty level on a job like this? Thanks for all the help so far. -Dan Dan: The bend that you see on the thinner metal rod at the end of the black "hydraulic" pushrods is normal. Also, they are mirror images of each other. Do a search here for photos of broken/bent pushrods and of normally bent pushrods or post pics of your pushrods and we'll evaluate them. If you are not getting any reaction to your pressing the switch, there are a few different possibilities as to the cause: First, verify that your handbrake is up AND that the emergency brake idiot light is lit up on the dashboard. Then check fuses D3 (powers the electric motor) and B6 (powers the convertible top double relay). When you pull down the latch, do the windows automatically drop down by about 4 inches? Do you hear the electric motor spinning when you press the button or is there a dimming of any lights when you press the button? Try those and report back as there are a few other, less common, causes we can try to narrow down. The issue of the front end of the clamshell is either an adjustment to one of three places or the V-lever has over-rotated and your V-levers have to be re-synchronized. Regards, Maurice. Maurice, I hear a clicking noise when i press the button and the windows go down. There are some linkages that are disconnected. apparently from the previous owner, but the roof worked when i first got it. I cannot get the push-rods to disconnect out of the ball. I heard that the back lid(which opens as the push-rods are disconnected) is the first step to getting this thing fixed. My mechanic cannot get the push-rods disconnected. Any ideas? i will post more pics as soon as i can. Thanks for the quick reply! -Dan Dan: Take some photos showing which linkages are disconnected so that we can figure out what has to be put back together, and in what order. The ball cups can simply be pried off their respective steel balls. However, note that when the clamshell is closed down tight, the black "hydraulic" pushrods are under A LOT OF PRESSURE. Remember, the black "hydraulic" pushrods act on the clamshell and the front pushrods (that terminate in white or red plastic ball cups) act on the canvas top frame. If you cannot get the pushrods off their steel balls, you can always unbolt the two V-levers from the transmissions. The V-levers are held on with one 19mm bolt in the center of each one. Note that there is blue loctite on those 19mm bolts, so it does require some extra force to unbolt them. Be careful when you unbolt them as they might suddenly "twist out" or pop-off because of the pressure from the black pushrods. Also, be careful to note the position that the V-levers are installed as it is possible to re-install them 180 degrees off. Once you have the pushrods off or have unbolted the 19mm bolts to remove the V-levers, you will be able to lift up the clamshell back to its 45 degree rearmost position and that will give you access to "the works". Regards, Maurice.

Dan: The bend that you see on the thinner metal rod at the end of the black "hydraulic" pushrods is normal. Also, they are mirror images of each other. Do a search here for photos of broken/bent pushrods and of normally bent pushrods or post pics of your pushrods and we'll evaluate them. If you are not getting any reaction to your pressing the switch, there are a few different possibilities as to the cause: First, verify that your handbrake is up AND that the emergency brake idiot light is lit up on the dashboard. Then check fuses D3 (powers the electric motor) and B6 (powers the convertible top double relay). When you pull down the latch, do the windows automatically drop down by about 4 inches? Do you hear the electric motor spinning when you press the button or is there a dimming of any lights when you press the button? Try those and report back as there are a few other, less common, causes we can try to narrow down. The issue of the front end of the clamshell is either an adjustment to one of three places or the V-lever has over-rotated and your V-levers have to be re-synchronized. Regards, Maurice. Maurice, I hear a clicking noise when i press the button and the windows go down. There are some linkages that are disconnected. apparently from the previous owner, but the roof worked when i first got it. I cannot get the push-rods to disconnect out of the ball. I heard that the back lid(which opens as the push-rods are disconnected) is the first step to getting this thing fixed. My mechanic cannot get the push-rods disconnected. Any ideas? i will post more pics as soon as i can. Thanks for the quick reply! -Dan

I have 1998 Porsche Boxster. The convertible top will not go down when i press the button, furthermore the top open light is on. I have noticed that the push-rods (Black cylinders) are slightly bent at the very top( where it gets skinner)The passenger side of the lid compartment is jammed down more than it should be.

it worked! Thanks again!

Hi, I recently purchased a Porsche Boxster, and in need of a radio code. The previous owner does not have it. model r3298 SN v5008576 Thanks in advance, Dan