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Q-Ship986

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Everything posted by Q-Ship986

  1. Porsche has numerous tire/wheel fitments for the Boxster. The owner's manual may cover many/all of these (for your model year), since the manual is inserted into a given Boxster with any one of these combinations. My manual, for 2003 models, says to use Porsche-approved tire sizes (consult dealer) and use 29 psi front and 36 psi rear, regardless of size. The sticker on the fuel door may be more specific to your vehicle. It may have just your size, or it could include others. Check your tires to determine if the proper sizes are fitted front and rear. Follow the pressures recommended on the fuel door for that size (which should also correspond to same recommendations listed in the owner's manual). Let us know if there is a conflict or if you have a question about the proper fitments. --Brian
  2. Can you install that switch upside-down, so it, you know, makes more sense for a garage door? Just wondering... --Brian
  3. According to my PET, which is about 1.5 year old now, the trim piece you're after comes in laquered black, graphite grey, savana, metropol blue, nephrite green, boxster red, cinnamon brown, and arctic silver. It is also available in leather (many matching interior colors), dark and light rootwood, and carbon fiber. Aluminum look is not listed. The part number for the arctic silver trim/surround ("horseshoe" style for 2003-up) is 996.552.967.13 It may be telling that alumimum look is listed for the center vent assembly. Both arctic silver and aluminum look are listed for the side vents. I think these are for the slats and thumbwheels only. --Brian
  4. Your right-drift problem is definitely related to the the front cross camber. Not enough negative camber on the right side to counter the camber force from the left. In other words, travelling on a level surface, the left front tire is forcing the vehicle to the right more than the right front tire is forcing it to the left. With about 0.6 deg cross camber, you have a significant right drift tendency. The tires themselves could have certain amount of conicity which manifests as a right or left drift tendency. In your case, if the tires are imparting a right-drift tendancy, the effect is additive to the cross camber you have. If the tires have a left-drift tendency, when you swap them, the drift will get even worse. When I say swap the tires, I'm actually referring to swapping the whole tire/wheel assemblies from side-to-side. If you have directional tires, swapping them by removing them from their wheels and remounting on the other side (keeping the correct rotation direction) will be a net no effect. In any case, swapping the tires would be interesting, but I'd address the cross camber condition regardless. --Brian BTW, an industry rule of thumb for objectionable drift/pull tendency is 8 seconds or less to drift one lane at 55 mph on a typical crown (about 2%, if I recall correctly) road, on either side of the crown.
  5. Looks like you want item #19, below: Part no. is 986 551 985 00. Looks like they run about $4.65 each MSRP. Porsche calls them "Fastening Plates for Floor Mats" and "Velcro Fastening" --Brian
  6. Another thread going here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9187 also addresses the amp and door speaker issue. --Brian
  7. Andy, if your '03 is like mine with a CDR23 and MOST M490 system, the amp is apparently a 6-channel. I say this because: 1. I added the PNP rear speaker kit and wired directly into the amp. The fader then worked between the dash speakers and rear deck. Prior to adding the rear speakers, the fader simply subtracted volume from the front when dialed toward the rear. 2. Essentially, the output from the door speakers seems entirely volume dependent. Meaning, nothing perceptible seems to happen with their output as you dial fader front/rear. I think they just boom at whatever volume you've dialed in. I have had the same questions as you about where the determination is made within the audio system about what the output is from the door speakers. I think with this custom-designed MOST system, it's possible that the amp decides what signal gets sent to the door speakers. If you get an answer somewhere else, please circle back here and let us know. --Brian
  8. For your model, the headlamp washer nozzles are hidden by a circular piece of chrome trim and pop up from the head lamp when activated. In other words, you can't see the nozzles unless there spraying. Maybe that's why you think you don't have them? The stalk that works the wipers also activates the headlamp washers. Simply push the lever towards the dash, away from you. But, they only activate/spray when the lights are on. --Brian
  9. Is this true. PCNA not PNA. Does your Porsche Motor Club membership cover you for your engine? Or is this just a typo. PCNA is Porsche Cars North America. PCNA is the sole authorized importer of Porsche vehicles in the US and Canada. Essentially, they are the entity that buys vehicles/parts from Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG (PAG) or one of its subsidiaries, imports them into North America, and distributes same to North American dealers. PCNA is the provider in the US and Canada of the express warranty on new vehicles and so-called CPO (certified pre-owned) vehicles. PCNA may sometimes be abbreviated PNA. Sorry to hijack this thread further, but I found this org chart in PAG's last annual report: Scouser, you may be thinking of PCA, Porsche Club of America, which is our membership group. --Brian
  10. Oh, it can (and does) occur. But, there are numerous variables, some of which you've mentioned. Pressure and load, of course, but the tires themselves are big factors. Ambient temp and more importantly, temp of the tires when first stored. I get noticeable, but not objectionable, flat spotting over night after driving my highway commute and parking in the garage. Dissipates within a few miles in the morning. I run Bridgestone Potenza S-03. --Brian
  11. You insensitive 996 owners.... Jeff, I thought you meant there was a cosmetic difference between 996 and 986 halogen clears. Did you? That's the useless trivia I'm after.... --Brian
  12. Running low on useless knowledge today....do tell.
  13. Hi. Your first post indicates your problem(s) began on April 14. On that day, your car started, but after a short run, would not start again until you got a jump. Based on your last post, I assume you went about two weeks since that episode without (a.) using a battery tender, and/or (b.) driving your car much (if at all). After that time period, your car started, but after a short run, would not start again until you got a jump. If that's a correct summation, it sure sounds like a tired, discharged battery. Probably not your alternator/charging system. Not your starter. You may be able to fully trickle charge your battery (i.e. at a 2 amp rate), maintain it with a tender, and squeeze a couple more years out of it. On the other hand, the plates within the battery may be too far gone to ever hold a full charge. Can't answer those questions from here. --Brian
  14. FYI: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1278 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2613 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6469 --Brian
  15. CDR23 radios are electronically coded to the car itself, programmed at the factory. No separate, owner-entered code is required. If you disconnect the battery or remove the radio, once everything is reconnected, the radio checks itself against the coding from the car. It's a transparent process, accomplished without intervention from you. Installing the speaker kit has you performing steps like routing wires forearm-deep into the dash. Disconnecting the battery when performing service like this is a safety and vehicle-damage-prevention measure. Safety, for example, from accidental ignition of an airbag. Vehicle damage, for example, from shorting a very expensive control box. --Brian
  16. Geez, if the Britax booster won't fit in the seat bottom, I am having a hard time imaging what will, including the Recaro. After all, the Britax is adjustable to essentially the width of your child and is about as narrow as can be. As for the seatback angle, sorry to answer with anther question: Can your child sit on a booster bottom only, without the seatback and shoulder belt clip, and have the shoulder belt rest comfortably and appropriately on the shoulder? Some kids may be tall enough for that. Running out of ideas here.... --Brian
  17. There may be many reasons why your car won't "fit" on his machine; I can think of three: (1) The car is too low and won't fit up ramps or clear a lifting device. (2) The wheelbase is too short...the front and rear axles can't be on slip plates simultaneously. (3) The wheel adapters/clamps for his machine won't fit your wheels at all or won't fit without damaging. I encountered #2 on the machine I use, which is one of the latest/greatest machines from Hunter. It's a manageable problem, though; I check and set the rear axle first, then roll the car forward to the front slip/turn plates to do the front axle. There is a fourth reason, that just occurred to me...(4) He didn't want to do it. (?) Checking and setting alignment can be pain, depending on the machine and the car. If a machine is older, with strings and time consuming compensation steps.... A simple drive won't tell you much about the alignment. Camber, caster and toe settings can each be out of spec without clear symptoms. For instance, total toe can be off, but clear vision (steering wheel angle) OK. Conversely, the steering wheel angle can be out of whack, but total toe AOK. Camber and caster anomalies won't usually be evident unless cross-camber or cross-caster (the difference between the left and right sides) is out of spec...but if both the left and right side are similarly out of spec, then the result may not play out until you have irregular tire wear. --Brian
  18. Hi. What you are looking for your 4+ years old, 30+ lbs child is a booster for proper positioning of the shoulder belt. The objective of a booster is simple: they are a comfortable phone book that puts the child's shoulder and waist into better position to make use of the safety belt and to prevent injury in an accident by the belt itself. Many boosters on the market today also offer side-impact head protection. As mentioned above, Britax is a viable source. Britax is a highly-respected manufacturer of child seats. My research years ago led me to conclude they pioneer many designs, perform actual crash testing, and have very few product recalls. Porsche seats are apparently produced by Britax. Of the major brands, Britax is a more expensive option; Porsche, for the same seat, is even more. Britax's current booster seat offering is the Parkway model, about $100. You might consider Graco, or another non-boutique brand. For instance, check out the Graco TurboBooster, about $50. My kids have used a Britax StarRiser Comfy (a predecessor to the Parkway that I had to special order at the time for $150) and/or a Graco TurboBooster. These Britax and Graco models have a narrow footprint, and are highly likely to fit in the rear seat of a 911. Both are adjustable for a custom fit and have head protection that doubles as a head rest for napping. My kids have never complained about comfort in either one on 2-hour trips (haven't travelled much longer than that). You can get more specific details on-line, i.e. http://www.britaxusa.net/ and http://www.gracobaby.com/products/category.asp?N=41. I also recommend checking out NHTSA's website for more info: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov...for instance, they currently offer this pamphlet: Boosterseats.pdf BTW, Britax is available at specific outlets only, i.e. Babies'R'Us or by mail order. Graco, and many others, are available at WalMart, Target, etc. --Brian
  19. Porsche changed to pink coolant recently. Green/yellow was the old color. Can be mixed, no problem. Use 50/50 coolant/water (distilled water). --Brian
  20. Immediate concern I have is for interference between the latch mechanism and the center of the speaker box, when the top is down. The Bose unit for the Boxster accounts for this (as does the pizza oven storage box that the rear speaker kits fit into). --Brian
  21. Don't wait too long. If the joint gets infiltrated by water or other debris/contamination, it will hasten the demise of the joint itself. --Brian.
  22. I installed his kit, too. I have a CDR23 (MOST) w/M490, so I connected to the amp. The fader works and the sound is filled out. Installation was not difficult, but not an undertaking for a novice in my opinion. Overall, I have been very content with this set-up. His website is http://www.pnpvirginia.com, but all it has right now is a link to eBay with some items for sale. --Brian
  23. This usually has to do with emissions. My understanding is that cold (ambient temp) start is one of the most difficult hurdles in passing emissions requirements. Higher revs gets everything warmer, quicker...particularly the cats. Point of interest: My Lexus RX avoids shifting into higher gears, and won't shift into the top gear (4th), during cold operation until the engine temp gets close to normal operating temp. In this case, "cold" means freezing temperatures. The first time I experienced this in the winter, I inquired with the dealer thinking the auto tranny wasn't properly functioning. Explanation was that it was....Lexus just wants the heater core to get up to temp more quickly--for occupant comfort. --Brian
  24. This caught my eye because the price seemed "low" <_< and I have been checking on part numbers/prices for the last few weeks. Carnewal sells the "Turbo" model for a lot more, like $330....see here (click on 'Interior' then 'P96 Turbo' then 'Alu/Leather' shifter at the top). I think 996.424.075.05 may be the plain 'ole OE 6-speed knob/boot (no Al-look trim, no "Turbo"). PET falls short here, because the descriptions aren't too great. They do list that part number in the 996T PET, but it's also listed in the 986 PET, for instance. I fished around in the TEQ PET, but still couldn't find a knob/boot that seems to be exclusive "Turbo" like the one that's being sought....send a note to Gert? --Brian
  25. Then again, PCA's Scott Slauson seems convinced condensation should never be present.... http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...B-3E3CE7B566EB} --Brian
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