ivass

Hi Guys, I had a MAF failure which triggered a CEL on my 2013 C2S, and while fixing this, I noticed that I have two other errors. One was for the micro switch on the passenger's door, and one was for the siren of the alarm (my siren never worked, so I knew about the issue). I replaced the door handle with the micro switch and the siren. Now, I few seconds after I lock the car, the alarm goes off. Can anyone think of what might be triggering it? I am guessing this is whey the original siren had burned out. Hope one of you can point me in the right dirrection. Thank you, Ivo

Any idea how to fish them out? I see them but it almost looks like I have to remove the dash. Does the harness flip down so the relay can be removed? Looks like I have to pull it up to get it out. Looking a cluster of 3 relays and a larger computer box or some sort.

Thank you Loren

Hi guys, My passenger side cooling fan is showing some erratic operation - runs on high when I start the car in the morning, runs for a few mins when I turn it of, sometimes runs while driving without a good reason for it, etc. Error code is P0480 Fan Control Driver. Could someone please give me the part number for the fan control module for a 2013 C2S and let me know where it is located? For some reason I can't find it. Also, does anyone know where the fan relays are located? Would like to swap left and right just to make sure it is not the relay. Thank you, Ivo

Follow-up ... I found a post which showed that on a car with an electric wing, one can reach the latch from under the raised wing. Since my car has a fixed wing, I could not do that. Instead, I reached through the louvers of the deck lid (pic1), removed the rubber shroud that goes to the intake, reached in under the black plastic cover of the engine (used a few rags to hold the plastic pulled apart), and was able to see and push the latch with a long screw driver, right where the cable was supposed to attach. Pic 2 shows the disconnected cable and, pic 3 and pic 4 show how it connects. The issue is that the plastic clip holding the cable is not to strong and pops out easy. Part of the issue is that the cable attaches to the air intake (pic 8), and every time you pull out the intake pipe, like when you change oil, you put strain on the cable and it can pop out. My solution was to fabricate a small bracket (pic 5), and bolt it on top of the plastic clip using one of the bolts holding the latch mechanism plus an additional 6mm bolt which I added to an existing hole on the latch (pic 6 and 7). Note in pic 9, the location of the emergency lid release. This cable can be reached by raising the electric wing, but is unreachable on cars with a fixed wing. Plus, it is attached to the actuator, so if the cable pops out from the latch, it is of no use. I tied up some 60lb fishing leader to that cable and routed it above my tail light so I can use it if the electric release fails. The main issue I see with the design here, is that the emergency release cable is not independently attached to the latch mechanism. I will consider adding a whole new emergency release cable in the future. Ivo

Yes, but I can see from the bottom that that the cable is completely detached from the latch, so pressing the lid will not help. I need to figure out a way to get to the latch with causing the least damage. Looks impossible from the bottom, so I think I will try to go through the slats right after the air intake. If anyone had done this, I would appreciate some pointers.

I have the same issue with a 2013 Carrera S with Aero kit. The main cable came loose from the latch. The actuator is working but since the cable is loose it can't release the latch. Because I have a fixed wing, I can't reach the emergency cable. Do you guys have any other ideas how I can get to the latch to release it?

Thanks. I will try to isolate the issue using a resistor, but I know that replacing the contact unit yet again will fix the issue … temporarily. It just looks like there is something causing the contact units to fail, and I can’t put my finger on it. When I take the “failed” units, I test them for connectivity on all four wires as I spin the unit from lock to lock and I don’t get any disconnects. However, when I put them in the car I get the error as soon as I turn the steering wheel.

Hi All, I have a 99 C4 which I purchased back in 2003. In 2005 the airbag light came on with error 21 – (ignition circuit driver). I changed the clock spring – 996 652 211 00 with the same part number and the problem was fixed. Last year, in November 2012, I got the same issue and purchased a clock spring contact unit – 996 652 211 01 (this number superseded the original part number above) and the issue was fixed again … for about a month! I figured it must have been a defective part and ordered a new one. The new part was installed in January and now, in March, I just got the same error 21 again. What am I doing wrong? There is only one way to connect and install the contact unit and I just can’t figure out what is going on. If replacing the contact unit wasn’t fixing the issue for a while, I would be looking for the problem elsewhere, but it is, so it must be it. Has anyone seen this before? Thank you, Ivo

I need to find someone who can reprogram my DME from OBD2 to RoW in Miami. Looked at the registration tread but did not see a local post. Could anyone help or recommend a shop that can do this for me?

I know that a lot of you use the racing Carbotech pads, and was wondering if anyone is using their street compound called Bobcat 1521? I found several good reviews of this pad, but none on a Porsche forum. Has anyone used it?

I can't open the link to the DIY. Does anybody know if it has been moved, or if it is posted to a different location?

how are the $800 headers different than those? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PORSCHE...sspagenameZWDVW I