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philooo
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sorry for not replying here earlier, I had a long discussion on rennlist about it The answer was super simple, it was simply a bad tank of gas. I noticed that the station I had filled up a few days earlier went out of service a few days later certainly after detecting a problem in their tanks. Anyways after putting some gas additive (techron) and refueling at a good station the problem was gone The dealer told me the source of problem is water falling at the bottom of the gas tank. When the car sits for a while, the water goes at the bottom of the tank, right on top of the fuel pump, so when you start there is enough good gas in the line to start the car but when the water comes up then the engine all together in a concentrated form, then engine stalls. The bad thing for me is that I had my car filled up complettly so it took me time to run off some gas and filled up at another station. I could not find a way to drain the gas easily, tube in the filler hole won't work. Good luck with your issue, I hope it is as easy as mine. BTW this is now 1 year after the problem occured and it never happened again so I am pretty sure of my solution ;)
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any update on this ? I am quite curious how to bleed the system completely, including the abs lines
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I just wanted to update the thread, I manage to clear the rear view mirror by removing the carpet underneath one of the bar feet. It was a pain to move the carpet out with the bar in place but it is possible and it cleared the rear view mirror by a hair literally !
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Ok I have been working on installing my tequipment roll bar and after watching the youtube video and some searching on forums, I got started but when I tried to flip my rear view mirror as in the tutorial video, it did not work, I assume the autodimming mirror is a tad bit bigger. video here: I will try to push the bar a little further back but I wanted to see if someone here knows how to get the rear view mirror, auto-diming version, out of its socket. I tried to apply mild pressure to see if there was some play/hope but it seems attached fairly well. I know that in very hot days, the mirror move easily so may be warming it up with hair dryer or something.. I'll try that also but again if someone has insight that would be great ;) By the way I jsut came across a post saying that the bar should enter the car on its back, and once inside the car, it shoudl be flipped forward. This is the inverse of what I saw in the youtube video but that would solve my mirror clearing problem. anyone can chime in on that as well ?
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ok so today again it won't start in the morning. I removed the vaccum line plugged on top of the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner and it would start right away..for a second or two. I assume the fuel do not reach the engine in the moring for some unknown reason... I bet some air valvle somewhere doesn't work I heard problem with the tank breather valve...does anybody know how to check this out ?
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thanks, I'll send this back tomorrow ;)
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here are my FRA values... the engine was at idle and fully warmed up I see my RKAT values are half of yours... does it mean anything special ? what are the values to check the fuel pump effectiveness ? Phil
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I check for vacuum leak and when I pull the oil filler cap, the idle goes down and I can ear a suction but the cap is easy to pull by hand. I head that when there is a leak the oil filler cap can be hard to pull by hand, right ? where are the temperature sensor you are talking about ;) ? For info I cleaned up the MAF and Throttle again this weekend and even went as far as removing the plenum, a pain to put back. But at least now everything is cleaned up. I even put my hand in the intake to clean there, but it was not too dirty. On the other hand, the 'thing/bridge' behind the plenum which links both air intake, was pretty oily but I could not remove that one. I tried to clean as much as possible but no way to remove it without pulling the intake I think. The important part is that once the car has gone through the first morning problem. If I let it sit for 30 minutes and then go back to it for a start. It always starts like nothing happened before. And I would do nothing during that wait time. no temperature change or anything. That is the weirdest thing !
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996 Idle Issue
philooo replied to kj217's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
any news on this problem ? did you solve it ? it sounds really close to my problem here -
I'll check it out again and may be try another cleanup but last time I did it, two days ago :) it was pretty clean... do you know what are the normal value for TRA, FRA and air flow (over the MAF)... could this help me understand if the idle is having problem coming form somewhere ? I do have the durametric but no idea where to look :( Before: AFTER CLEANING: PLENUM BEFORE: PLENUM AFTER:
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any news on your problem ... ? I have something that sound similar.. does your problem sound like the video in this thread:
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Yes I drained it since
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I had like one quart of engine oil above the max value, could it be the reason for the greasy plenum ?
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I already did clean the MAF and the butterfly valve, they were quite greasy and sticky. But the problem is still there each morning. What is weird is that after that first start then the car runs perfect all day !
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Since the past week or so I have a problem starting the car when cold. It only happens on the first morning start. The idle get lower and lower and the engine dies. If I try to restart the car immediately after it usually fail. either no start at all, or same low idle and die. If I push the gas when the idle is 'normal' the engine dies right away. Whne I wait let's say 15 to 20 minutes, then I the car usually restart, and if I don't touch the gas, and let it warm, after that I can rev it and it will run all day and restart all day without any trouble. To cut it short here is a video of the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JYgWEzqRnE I already cleaned the Throttle body. Not yet the MAF. Anybody experienced that kind of problem ?
