OscarAH1W

Loren or JPFlip - Still Troubleshooting the above issue. At first I was focusing on the potential for something with the variocam solenoid but can't see how that could be the issue as it is a few years and very few miles since the engine was out for pinning of the coolant pipes. That said, on a previous issue where the car was quitting, I replaced the fuel pump and relay only to find that the cause of that fuse blowing was melting of O2 sensor wires and grounding on exhaust. The fact that this started with C1 AFTER figuring out the other problem leads me towards the fuel pump area (I had to go back in there and re-seat the locking collar too... ) Most recently I found that the wiring to the plug on top of the fuel cell was rubbing on the edge of the access opening. I could not see any evidence of chafing through the insulation so rerouted and drove for a few days... sure enough on two different right turns returning from work, the fuse blew. Right before it blows, the engine seems to stutter when returning to throttle in the turn... I bought a relay off amazon... thinking of putting the original relay back in the car since I am working through anything/everything that was messed with or changed while chasing down the O2 sensor wire issue. Any advice on where else to look would be helpful. Loren, I am wondering what schematic you were referring to in an earlier post... I have the wiring diagram for the car as part of the 996 Turbo service manual set I have (Odd that the GT3 print would be there....but... )I couldn't really track that down in the print. Thank you guys again...

Is there a diagram somewhere that shows the routing for the VarioCam solenoid cable? I just started having this problem with my GT3 (only occurs on a right turn with hard braking). I've driven the car to work 4+ times in between fuse blows but can't get 3 laps on the track out of it before it blows. Driving me nuts as I only drive a few laps on track days with students in the car and it only has 54000 miles...

Okay, it is fixed now. by way of researching the vent valve (behind the passenger side headlamp) I stumbled across a forum post where someone was in the same spot- replaced Filler Vent Valve and wouldn't refuel... found out that I had not replaced the magnetic "reed switch" in the channel on the valve assembly, thus it couldn't open. The Pelican Parts DIY video omitted that portion so I had no idea what it was as it falls out when removing the old valve assembly. Hope this helps the next poor bastard trying to troubleshoot this issue. As these 996s continue to age, I feel like these plastic parts will start failing at a higher rate even n low mileage vehicles. Cheers all!

Hi all, So the saga of the 51,000 mile GT3 continues... after I get everything running I started getting a CEL for evap leak (small) pretty much every time I drove the car after a reset. I do the requisite research and all points to the EVAP valve on the filler neck. I even checked the valve that is over by the throttle body first and that actuated perfectly with 12V so back to the filler evap valve. Replaced it per Pelican parts video and it threw a slightly different code (Fuel tank something or other, but not the evep leak (small) on startup but cleared and hasn't returned. Sooooo THEN I go to fill up the car and it won't take more than about a quart before spitting fuel out and cutting off the nozzle. Never had that issue with the car...After a 20 minute / 500 click fill-up, no CEL or anything but I found the troubleshooting step about the filler flap and unlike my 996TTs, there is no click. The E6 fuse is intact. so based on both symptoms, it appears the original valve was stuck in the open position and that the new one is stuck in the closed position, pointing to an issue with the car electrics, rather than the valve, I would guess, since there is no activity when pushing in the filler flap... any help is greatly appreciated as I am fresh out of ideas...

The last entry on this one... so the Fabspeed Cat replacement I did a year and a half or so ago did not have as much slack in the O2 sensor cables as the factory install... ran them as best I could to avoid chafing/burn through... turns out both chafed through and that is what caused the 30A fuse to blow.. looks as though the new ones from Bosch (Bosch part number/price on the box, Porsche part number laser printed on the sensor... different box discount was $200 per, LOL.) have a second protective sleeve so that coupled with removing the connector from the plastic bracket in the engine compartment, I have slack AND extra protection...Thanks again for all you have done for me and for everyone else on the forum. Happy Christmas all!

Solution found. Spoke with my Porsche Tech friend here and though he was looking at injectors after seeing the blackened fuel, he told me he thought he remembered these cars having a fuse for the injectors. Like me he wasn't convinced that some contamination would foul all 6 injectors at the same time. He mentioned that the 0202 etc fuel injector circuit open was likely electrical. When I went to the wiring print in my service manual, there it was on C row: Ignitiion; Fuel Injectors; O2S Heater 30A. Pulled it and it was blown. Replaced it and fired right up. Though it ended up being a simple solution, the troubleshooting revealed some other issues: Old style fuel pump where rubber hose had not ruptured (yet), nasty fuel on output side of filter...so some good preventive maintenance and with everything new, the car runs much better. Thanks for all the help!!!

Okay, car has been running great with new cats: no codes, easy inspection, etc. THEN, shifting at 6,000 rpm the engine quits. After coasting into pits, pulled 8 codes, P0202 (Fuel injector circuit open) along with the other 5 cylinders, and 0036 and 0056, HO2S heater control sensor 2 (both sides). Everyone to include my Porsche Tech friend figured it was the fuel pump. Got the new one from Germany and when I pulled the old one, the rubber hose had not split like is so often the case. applied some power and yep... still working. Replaced it anyway and nothing. Ordered new relay and filter. Relay? Nothing. Replaced filter today (52,700 miles; i know, it's a 48000 mile part... anyhoo) When I drained the fuel out of the output side of the filter, it was BLACK and opaque. Replaced filter, still won't start. Is there anything I can do short of pulling all of the injectors? Seems odd that all of them would quit simultaneously. There were no misfires prior to the engine quitting, it just died. No hesitation under acceleration to speak of... a little bit at low RPM but never a problem and seems like it had always been that way... Looking for advice on next steps... Could it be the fuel pressure regulator? If I get the thing started again and driving, I'll replace the filter in a few hundred miles... Again, the whole thing quitting at once seems like something prior to the fuel rail. Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks JFP. I'm going to plug it with a stubby screw and a little sealant. If it works I'm ordering a replacement. It's cheap but doubtless a colossal pain to re-install. prob loosen the engine mounts and drop it a couple inches to make room. TT, yep, lean at idle. runs great even on track. I figured this occurred when they put the engine back together and re-installed it after pinning the pipes as it never happened prior to that repair job. Fingers crossed I can get her inspected. I am instructing at a track event next weekend.

All, Since my GT3 had the coolant lines pinned, I have had a recurring problem in that it throws a CEL for fuel trim when idling for more than a couple minutes. I finally invested in a smoke tester and looking at the rubber intake connector on the right side (part #11 on the intake manifold parts diagram) and smoke pours out of the little nipple on the bottom. I see that the same part is on the other side but I had no evidence of smoke from the left boot. Is air supposed to come out (or enter when the engine is running)? Thanks for any guidance you might have. It is a royal PITA getting past the emissions test when the sensors aren't reset. MOV_8521.mov MOV_8521.mov

JFP- 2004 GT3 (This is the 996 GT3 forum, isn't it?) and the original (intermittent) code was P2096 Oxygen Sensor Ageing Bank 1. It usually popped on the way home or on the first drive after an autocross. I purchased the correct Bosch O2 sensor and replaced it with the understanding that the POST CAT O2 sensor for bank 1 plugs into the OPPOSITE side of the car, right next to the bank 2 PRE cat sensor. After doing so, I still got a bank 1 O2 sensor light. Thinking that somehow Porsche wired things differently I naturally looked at the other post-cat O2 sensor that plugs in on the driver's side of the engine bay. In trying to figure out how to get at the sensor to replace it, I noticed that the weld on the output side of the Bank 1 Cat was broken, even though the exhaust was tight and not moving. (See Pic) So I pulled that half of the exhaust off the header and easily got at the other Post-Cat O2 sensor. After getting it welded, I re-installed it with everything exactly the same, now when I start the engine I am getting P0056 and P0161 Oxygen Sensor Heater behind Cat Conv Bank 2. After all that , I am thinking that I was originally correct, that Bank 1 Post Cat O2 sensor plugs in on the passenger side, and I mistakenly put the bad O2 sensor from the Bank 1 side on the Bank 2 side. to troubleshoot the continuing code. The CELs I got after the original O2 sensor may have been related to leaking gases due to the failing weld... especially as the bung for the sensor is about 12 inches from the cat. Looks like I will be purchasing another post Cat O2 sensor (I ain't pulling it apart again to put an old one in, LOL.) and reinstalling... CLORD, I see you mentioned a Europipe system... my cat has Europipe stamped in it... I really thought my car was bone stock when I bought it with 18,500 miles... thoughts??

Okay guys, I have been getting the CEL with this code for a while... reset, drive a few times, no light... then returns on way home from Autocross... So I order a post-cat O2 sensor and when I go to put it on, I notice that the Cat for bank 1 (Driver side) is on the other side because the exhaust crosses behind the engine... I assumed that since it monitored the exhaust from bank one that it just plugged in on the other side of the engine bay. I thought I was right because I drove it a few times with no light but on my way to Autocross last weekend, it came on again. Before I start undoing stuff, do I have it backwards or does the car look at it as Bank1 if the sensor is plugged in on the Bank 1 side. As anyone who has done this knows, it is a pain in the butt to get these in and out of a 996 GT3 so prior to subjecting myself to the discomfort, I figured I would solicit advice. Thanks!!!

You guys are gonna love this! I am posting it here as it appears to be a PCM2.X problem and not a 996/997 issue. So I noticed the same issue on my 2004 Turbo Cabriolet AFTER I reset the time for DST. No ability to move forward a day to the correct date. I am getting 8-11 Sats like everyone else and I have the most recent Navigation Discs. Car navigates flawlessly. Pretty much the same story, right? Here is where it gets odd...I borrowed my parents' 2004 Turbo Cabriolet (poor thing needed to be DRIVEN anyway) as both of our daily drivers were in the shop and theirs has the 2007 Nav Discs and the date reads PERFECTLY after the DST change but doesn't display the bottom-of-screen info (which I think is their software version but I am not sure). WTF?!

Greetings all- Noticing that my driver-side front brake duct is taking a beating, I thought I would look at replacing it and the 997 versions kept popping up. Since it clips to the lower suspension arm, fitment should not be an issue. Any reason not to spend the 10 bucks for both sides? It appears that it provides a little more ground clearance than the 996 GT3 ducts too...

Craig, Here is what I got back from Jae: So, when you remove the top mount from the car, take 2 of the 3 nuts off. make a line thru the bolt and the top mount so you can put it back to where it was..... should be ok if you put it back to where it is...... I pulled off the dust cover to look but it the bolt is recessed so I am not sure where he is talking about making the line, LOL.. I'll get clarification.

Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!