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Ahsai
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Posts
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Community Answers
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Ahsai's post in Removing Sill Cover 996 was marked as the answer
I believe they're attached by some strong double-sided adhesive tape http://www.macarbon.com/install_guides/Porsche/Porsche_Door_Sill_Installation_Guide.pdf
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Ahsai's post in IMS Bearing Replacement Tensioner Question was marked as the answer
As long as your turn the engine to TDC #1, put the cam lock tool in the bank 1 cams, then all you need to do is to remove those two tensioners you mentioned. Really no need to remove the one under the a/c compressor (very difficult). Yes, also no reason to remove the cam plugs on bank 2 unless you want to check the timing on that bank.
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Ahsai's post in Source of switched power in engine bay? was marked as the answer
Ok, a gentleman from the TT forum just sent me the 02 TT wiring diagram. It's actually very similar to the N/A 996.
You can tap +12v switched power (add a fuse) from ANY black wire on ANY O2 sensor. The O2 connectors should be below the airbox and also on the right rear (rear of car) of the engine bay.
The black wire supplies +12v to the O2 sensor heaters. The DME provides ground to those heaters. The DME monitors the current going through the O2 sensor heaters via the wire AFTER the heater so whatever you draw (<1A BEFORE the heater) would NOT be seen by the DME if you tap on the black wires.
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Ahsai's post in Metal bits.. was marked as the answer
You should go buy a lottery ticket :)
Replacing the whole shaft isthe proper fix since its also damaged by the disintegrating bearing.
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Ahsai's post in Coil pack heat shield was marked as the answer
Tried this? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05§ion=103-00
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Ahsai's post in Reverse Issues was marked as the answer
And the cables are not knocked out of their mounting brackets on the transmission under the car?
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Ahsai's post in HELP! Coolant leaking next to water pump was marked as the answer
Good progress. Could be the notorious coupler that's easy to break.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34150-coolant-problem/
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Ahsai's post in Brake fluid reservoir on 2011 cayenne (92A) was marked as the answer
http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/2011-cayenne/4/245/ :)
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Ahsai's post in Newbie: Oil temperature gauge not working? was marked as the answer
Obviously you have another oil temp sensor that reads the oil temp that Durametric is reading. The oil level you have seems to be the same one that VW and Audi use http://www.niparts.com/MAC/28C1B4/HELLA/6PR008079081.html
It has three pins +ve, -ve, and signal like shown here http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2797528
I think the sensor is at the top of the probe where the correct oil level has to reach before the sensor will register the oil level (and possibly oil temp) reading. So it sounds very possible your oil level is truly low that it doesn't touch the top part of the probe. I would second Mitjostin's reco of draining the oil and measure it.
Other than that, not sure how to troubleshoot the sender nor the instrument cluster. There's instrument cluster test for 996 in Durametric where it cycles all the gauges in full range. So you couldn't find the same for your car?
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Ahsai's post in Question: Coolant and Overflow Tank was marked as the answer
Looks like original coolant. I would recommend a complete coolant replacement with Porsche pink coolant.
Also best time to replace the water pump and thermostat as preventive maintenance. Your tank part number looks quite old and the latest tank is 99610615704 and the latest CAP is black and ends with .04
You can top it off with distilled water to a level between the min and max marks then monitor it to see if the level drops. If it's the original tank, best to replace it too as a PM.
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Ahsai's post in Tuning front/rear weight distribution was marked as the answer
Forgot to answer your question. Yes, lowering the front will bias more weight to the front (rake), which will increase the traction in the front hence less understeering.
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Ahsai's post in Codes/idle issues was marked as the answer
Maybe the infamous bellow is broken (fig 3 here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm)
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Ahsai's post in Brake fluid question was marked as the answer
250mL per caliper is more than enough so 1L total.
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Ahsai's post in 996 Oil filler tube replacment was marked as the answer
I'm pretty sure removing the alternator, throttle body, and the intake plenum are needed. No engine drop for sure.
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Ahsai's post in Where does this tube goes? was marked as the answer
Looks like the vacuum tube connected to the intake resonator actuator #21 and #15 here (#19 and #20 look like your tube and elbow)
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05§ion=107-10
Probably losing some hp at high revs without it.
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Ahsai's post in 3.4L NA water pump bolts was marked as the answer
On my '03, the pump has 7 bolts (yours the same), there are two holes with steel inserts. Two of the bolts are longer.
See here http://www.vertexauto.com/UserData/Images/Large/4615.jpg
Those two holes receive the two longer bolts.
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Ahsai's post in Alternator Voltage was marked as the answer
Well done! Good to see the solid 14v there.
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Ahsai's post in Short Throw Shifter Install was marked as the answer
Yes, it's the stock OE 997 shifter, which is a plug-and-play. It comes assembled in it's own shifter tower and an alignment tool to align the cables. You swap out the whole shifter and tower assembly so it's completely reversible. I think it's less than $300 but don't quite remember.
The B&M requires you to destroy the stock plastic bushings on the shifter tower so the only way to reverse it is to get the whole shifter assembly. However, I'm sure you can sell the whole installed B&M assembly to someone else.
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Ahsai's post in 2000 996 won't turn over was marked as the answer
Oh right, he still needs to check pins 2&7 for power to the relay coil like I suggesed in post #2. For some reason I thought he has already done that. I think we are zooming in...
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Ahsai's post in CEL and code P0440 was marked as the answer
You may want to check your purge valve also
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Ahsai's post in Engine rebuild and P1539 and P1324 was marked as the answer
Agree that -4v and -6v makes no sense. If indeed that's what the DME sees, you found your problem. Again, the O2 sensor 1 on both banks should swing between 0.2v to 0.8v about once a second when fully warmed up and idling. If it does not, either the sensor is faulty or you have a wiring problem.
The post-cat sensors should read very steady at around 0.6v and swing only from time to time (much less freq than once a second) if I remember correctly when idling and warmed up.