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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Also, what are your FRA and RKAT values for both banks? Fyi http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/600891-bought-durametric-but-i-need-help-understanding-numbers.html
  2. Ahsai
    All those codes point to vacuum leak. Maybe difficult without a smoke machine to pinpoint unless it's obvious.
  3. Ahsai
    Btw, have you checked using Durametric if the coolant temp sensor is giving correct readings, especially when cold?
  4. Ahsai
    Yes, if the DME doesn't get a good crank position signal, it doesn't even know at what moments it should fire the individual cylinders. Agree that does not explain rough idle though. Would still be good to verify spark and fuel injector clicking during hard start, just like what one would first check w/o a scan tool. Then presence of fuel pressure.
  5. Ahsai
    Sounds like you're making some good progress. When you have trouble starting next time, you can pull an ignition coil (insert a spare spark plug or a spak tester) to check for sparks. If there's no spark, the crank position sensor is highly suspect. DME cuts fuel AND spark if good crank signal is not detected by the DME. Also, you can listen to the injector using a stethoscope or connect a noid light ni place of the injector to see if they are operating when you're crankng.
  6. Ahsai
    Is the pressure correct and even between left and right? A little more wear at inner side is normal but excessive wear can be caused by wrong alignment such as excessive toe-in. I think it's a good idea to get the alignment check out by a good alignment shop, preferably specialized in Porsche. Great photos btw :)
  7. Ahsai
    This one looks good, except I would use throttle body cleaner http://911car.blogspot.com/2009/07/porsche-carrera-throttle-body-cleaning.html
  8. Ahsai
    I want to adjust the emergency brake. What problem did you run into? I tried the instructions found on this site for doing the adjustments at the rear wheels and I just couldn't get it right. It barely engages. There are other adjustments that can made from inside the car, under the rear center console, but I'm not sure what needs to be removed in order to get to it. All you need to remove is the hard plastic bottom of the armrest storage. Lift the rubber mat to expose the screw.
  9. Ahsai
    If you suspect electrical issues, should also check the ground cable between the engine and the chassis on right side of the engine (hope it's the same in your RHD). Also, a bad crank sensor can also cause hard start with warm engine. However, it should not cause the engine to stall by itself. Again, it's difficult without scanning the car for more clues. Btw, should also check if coolant temp sensor is giving correct reading.
  10. Ahsai
    Do you have stock intake and filter? The oil from K&n filter can ruine the MAF. Aftermarket intake does not work well with the MAF, which is calibrated with the stock intake.
  11. Ahsai
    Your voltage reading sounds fine. Yes, if that cable is corroded, you will have a hard time cranking when hot (even with a healthy battery). However, it's not clear to me how a corroded cable makes the car stall at idle though, which seems to be your problem. When you crank the car after stalling, do you feel the starter is struggling (turning slowly) or the engine is spinning at normal speed but it just won't fire up? The starter cable is behind the alternator. It's a lot of labor to change out since you need to remove the alternator and the a/c compressor, the throttle body, and the T rubber intake plenum.
  12. Ahsai
    Since your car is egas, it doesn't have an ICV. Also, unlikely it's the ignition switch since it relates to engine temp. I think the first step is to get it scanned with a Porsche scanner such as Durametric for any error codes.
  13. Ahsai
    It's the standard Bosh injector type connector where there's a metal clip you just squeeze FULLY to unlock then pull to disconnect. The metal clip is behind so you can't see it. Have to go by feel. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/944
  14. Ahsai
    I reuse mine using this high temp adhesive with success (street use and no tracks) http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-HeavyDuty-Spray-Adhesive/dp/B000GKD70E
  15. Ahsai
    I wish you the best case of just a blown AOS and no engine damage.
  16. Ahsai
    Good progress and thanks for the update.
  17. Ahsai
    i have been working on the car today and as you said I have power on one leg (red blue wire) I see 13.7 volts so I know that is good. I ran 12 volt power to the valve and I hear and see it move so Im guessing its working. with your idea I think I can use a noid light set to see if I see power pulse on it. I just need to buy a new set Amazon here I come. I ran 12 volt power to the purge valve in the back and as soon as i give it power the engine shuts off. is this normal? Now if someone can get me a wiring diagram so I can test at the dme and see if I have a short or a bad DME. Sounds like you lost the DME control side (violet wire either stuck to +ve or -ve). The valveis at the bottom right of the diagram below. See "Valve tank venting". The ground side is connected to pin 61 on the DME and pin 9 on the X59/1 engine harness connector. The engine died when you activated the valve with a 100% duty cycle (continuous power to the valve) is probably because of too much fuel (vapor) got sucked into the engine beyond what the DME can compensate for. I think using LED with a resistor is safer than a noid light which is designed to test higher current output like fuel injectors. I think this valve is only using very low current so you MAY overload the DME by using a noid light to replace the valve.
  18. Ahsai
    Um, can you just put the wheels straight, remove the airbag and steering wheel and then recenter it on the spline of the steering column? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHAgw8Rs3QM Edit: since it's a CPO, why don't you take it back to the dealer to ask them to fix it?
  19. Ahsai
    Yea, NFC works at really close range by design.
  20. Ahsai
    Glad you get it sorted out. I guess my signal coil guess was close :)
  21. Ahsai
    Explanation of the fuel trim numbers FYI http://www.callasrennsport.com/porsche-986-996-987-997-fuel-trim-information/
  22. Ahsai
    Looks like air leak at intake since it adds more fuel when idling (RKAT) but does not add/subtract much when at load (FRA) where vacuum leak has little effect. MAF reading looks fine. Can you read the MAF reading in kg/hr instead of voltage? It should be ~17kg/hr @idle and ~50-80kg/hr @3000 rpm. Do you feel any leak where your cat back system is connected to the cats? Can you remove your oil filler cap with ease but with some suction? Also agree with Silver you may need a post-cat sensor on bank1 (P0139).
  23. Ahsai
    Actually if you read what Loren said in that link, MAF is only one of the possibilities. The other ones are air leak, low fuel pressure, etc hence my questions to you. I do hope that the MAF will solve it for you though but without any diagnostic you will be taking a chance.
  24. Ahsai
    A few things I can think of: - the 15A fuse on the alarm module itself - are all the airbags intact and car has not been in a crash. Alarm takes input signal from the crash unit - key RFID signal coil and transformer which feeds to the alarm
  25. Ahsai
    Makes sense. I just assumed your car is a normal US car.
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