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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later.
  2. Ahsai
    Thanks Loren. Exactly the way I understood it....until I saw this today http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=30353 Which says the exact opposite hence my question.
  3. Ahsai
    Hi Loren, John, and all, I'm confused whether these codes indicate the engine is running rich or lean. Based on Porsche DME 7.2 OBDII manual, these codes can be either "below limit" or "above limit", which indicates rich and lean, respectively. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46001-996-cel-codes/?p=252692 When Durametric reports these codes, it only says 1128/1130 "Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range 1 (or range 2 in case of 1130)" but it doesn't say whether the code indicates "below limit" or " above limit". How to tell whether these codes mean lean or rich then? TIA
  4. Ahsai
    Hi George, do you mind posting the pdf for P1130 with above limit?
  5. Ahsai
    Thanks, George. It's even more weird than I thought then. So you're saying P1130 (and maybe P1128 as well) splits further into "above limit" and "below limit" that mean the total opposite? The former indicates a lean running engine and the latter indicates a rich running engine. Do both cases use the same "361" code or the "above limit" case uses a different code? This is super confusing. Agree that 770rpm is consistent with the MAF reading and seems there's no false air. His RKAT and FRA are good and within spec I think. I could definitely see that a bad alternator can load up the engine like in your case.
  6. Ahsai
    So with this new direction (that engine is running rich), I think the first thing i will check will be the EVAP purge valve beside the throttle body.
  7. Ahsai
    Hi George, that is strange. My previous search suggested otherwise but I can't argue with the pdf you sent which is DME 7.2 specific. Maybe the P1128/1130 codes means lean in one version of Motronic and rich in the other version? I just searched Renntech again and saw P1128/P1130 interpreted BOTH ways!! Totally crazy.
  8. Ahsai
    Your RKAT ad FRA look excellent! 770 rpm idle sounds a little high. Was a/c ON? Also is the MAFreading 15-17kg/hr at idle (fully warmed up with no accessories)?
  9. Ahsai
    Ok, 0280130092 is the engine compartment temp sensor http://www.findpart.org/part/bos-0280130092 The sensor is plugged in between intake runners #4 and #5 with a rubber gromet. #12 below
  10. Ahsai
    The link is blocked by my company's firewall. Where is it located and how many pins? Can't find the part number either...
  11. Ahsai
    Ah, bummer. What are your current RKAT and FRA vaules on BOTH banks? That will tell us if they are trully asymmetrical or just that one bank is a little worse than the other so it trips the code for that bank. O2 sensors have their own codes so most likely they are fine. You can select precat O2 voltage and post cat O2 voltage (and no other actual values) and plot them both in durametric when idling and at speed. At idle the precat voltage should swing between 0.2v to 0.8v about once a second while the postcat should be steady at ~0.6-0.7v most of the time. When you snap the throttle, the postcat will go high instantly and drop back to 0v once you release the throttle, then slowly builds itself up to ~0.7v again. At speed, same as above except the precat will swing faster.
  12. Ahsai
    You're welcome and take your time. Best is to drive it for at least 1/2hr with mixed highway and local roads. Multiple trips is even better. Most those tests (maybe except the EVAP test) should have run and completed.
  13. Ahsai
    Looks very sweet :) Those are NOT the stock cats though. More like 200 cell sport cats. I think the extender on the postcat sensors should work though I've never tried it personally. The principle is creating a gas chamber around the sensor to smooth out the O2 content flutaution in the exhaust gas that it sees. You can use Durametric to verify the effect of the extender by taking before and after readings of the O2 sensor voltage. The DME wants to see a very steady postcat sensor reading around 0.7v.
  14. Ahsai
    Hi Bob, how long was the car driven? Seems like making some progress. What are all the readiness tests shown in Durametric? You should see EVAP "PASSED", Catalytic converter "PASSED", O2 sensor "PASSED", etc. "FAIL" means the test has not been performed yet I think. I want to see if the drive was long enough for the car to complete all these tests to confirm all these systems are good since DME reset. Your TRAs are finally back to normal but the FRAs are out now. It shows the engine is trying to run lean under load. Can you check if MAF is 15~17kg/hr at idle and ~50kg/hr when you snap the throttle? I don't think the P1531 is caused by playing with Durametric. Can you drive the car and log and plot the two precat sensor voltage (but don't select any other actual value readings to reduce the sampling resolution)? They should be swinging between 0.2v to 0.7v about once a second at idle and even faster under load.
  15. Ahsai
    If the system is using the factory cats, the postcat O2 sensors should mount in the middle of the cat canisters. Most likely not affected by the aftermarket after cat components. You can plot the postcat O2 sensor voltage. It should stay at about 0.7v at steady crusing and idling. If it swings quickly between 0.2v to 0.7v, most likely your cats are gone, barring any exhaust leak.
  16. Ahsai
    Based on my personal experience if you don't mind wasting a bit of new fluid, drain out 125mL per bleeder (or 250mL per wheel) is way more than enough to change out the old fluid. You will always have some fluid inside the ABS system you can't drain out anyway (at least not w/o the help of Porsche scanners).
  17. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech! Does the aftermarket exhaust also include aftermarket catalytic converters? Any photos of the setup?
  18. Ahsai
    Did you try to pull it out slowly all the way first and then release? You can try to pull out a little bit and feed it back in, back an forth, trynig to unlock that ratcheting mechanism. Be patient and you may be able to unstick it.
  19. Ahsai
    So have you checked the bank1 and bank2 sensors are installed on the correct banks? The engine is still trying to run lean at idle. I think just reinstall the MAF, reset all the codes, drive the car for half an hr or so and rescan it and see what codes come back.
  20. Ahsai
    Sounds like a plan!
  21. Ahsai
    A few more ideas. I still suspect air leak after the MAF: - After you drive around the block, what are your FRA and TRA values now? - Disconnect your MAF completely and see if that helps idling - Check oil filler tube for leak (oil cap should have some slight vacuum) - Reconnect MAF and pinch this AOS hose circled in green (be careful not to damage it though) and see if idling improves. You can even monitor the misfire counts in Duametric acutal values in real time.
  22. Ahsai
    Excellent! Back to some sanity finally. When you rev the engine, it makes the mixture go RICH instantaneously hence O2 sensor reading spike up temporarily only to be overcome by the abundent O2 in the exhaust stream (to much O2->0.00v reading). The fact that you can get 0.7v also means the sensors have good range. So.....is it possible that you have reversed the bank1 and bank2 sensors?? i.e., bank1 sensor plugged into bank2 and vice versa. Indeed, bank1 is on the left and bank2 is on the right. I really hope it's that simple. Now your MAF sensor, are you sure the connector is fully seated? Also, you used MAF sensor specific spray when you cleaned it, right? Both P1602 and 0102 point to MAF shorted or disconnected.
  23. Ahsai
    When you pressure bleed, the new fluid moves through the system like a slug, pushing all the old dirty fluid in front of it, so there is no need to drain the reservoir. That is one of the beauties of doing it that way. Trying to drain the reservoir can also create issues as people sometimes drip brake fluid in the process which can blister paint and create a mess that is often difficult to clean up. One more drawback of removing the cup I can think of is without the filter, you may inadvertantly drop some debris into the reservoir.
  24. Ahsai
    A few points: 1) So to summarize you get continuity between the DME and the sensor harness side for both sensor signal (pin #18, 19) and sensor ground (pin #46). 2) Durametric should also show postcast voltage as well...have you looked lower down the list in actual values? 3) From my wiring diagram, I got the following colors. Your last set of results seem to be from bank2 and not bank1? (although it may not matter which bank). Not sure why you got 0.2v between pin#3 and pin#4 now when you got 0.5v before... pin4 for precat bank1 is black/white pin4 for postcat bank1 is black/yellow pin4 for precat bank2 is black/white pin 4 for postcat bank2 is white/yellow 4) Can you select only the 4 precat and postcat voltages in Durametric (and not any other acutal values) and plot them during engine warm up? We may see the precat sensor reading turn from 0.45v initially then to 0.00v later. If that's the case, give the gas a few revs and see if the sensors will report something non-zero. I start to think the 0.00v reading of the O2 sensors are real due to a massive air leak.
  25. Ahsai
    Use two small flat head screwdrivers (for prescription glasses) and pry at 180 degree at the rim of the cup.
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