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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. I've seen people addressing JFP both ways but he only has one name. Just thought I would send out the correct information. Happy Wednesday :D
  2. If it's right behind the steering wheel, most likely it's the cock spring http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/3619-clock-springhelp/
  3. Pg, looks like you have problems on both the control side and the power supply to the compressor. A/C compressor relay Pin 87 -> compressor -> ground Pin 87a: disregard Pin 85 -> pin 62 of DME "Comp ON" Pin 86 -> +12v whenever key is ON Pin 30 -> pressure switch -> pin 87 of "Actuation Heating Relay" -> Fuse D6 -> battery +ve You need to check the following: 1) Does Pin 85 supply ground when a/c button is pressed? DME supplies ground to power the compressor relay. If not, DME is NOT commanding the compressor to turn ON. 2) Check fuse D6. 3) Key ON. Check pin #4 of pressure switch for 12v. If OK,check pin#1 of pressure switch for 12v. If no 12v at pin#1, pressure switch is BAD. If no 12v on pin#4, check pin 87 of "Actuation Heating Relay" (Relay #18 on the front driver relay panel) has 12v with the relay still plugged in.
  4. Just for future reference you may be able to apply power directly to the fore/aft motor through the unplugged connector to move the seat forward/backward. http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/1278-986-7-12-07-noise-when-adjusting-seatpdf/ I have done it on my 996 with the seat removed and I think you should be able to do it even with the seat in place.
  5. George, agree with what you said. Acording to the serivce manual, the purge valve modulation is indeed done by monitoring the oxygen sensing.
  6. It can be easily removed from the exhaust at the short elbow joint. So tip keeps attached to the short elbow piece like this http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/supersprint-exhaust-tips-porsche-996-c2c4-9904-p-7527.html
  7. I have not tried but you can get direct fit cats like these http://www.catalyticconverterwarehouse.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1998-PORSCHE&makeid=68%40%40PORSCHE%40%40&yearid=1998%40%401998&makeid=68%40%40PORSCHE%40%40&modelid=11474@@BOXSTER&mode=EG Won't hurt the engine w/o cats and o2 sensors for that distance.
  8. Your test was not conclusive because 1) the 0.0x volt you measured could be the voltage on a floating wire that is not connected to anything. Unless you connect the red probe of the voltmeter to battery 12v and the black probe to the metal you want to measure. If you get 0.0x volt, then you know at least that metal is connected to the ground (although still may not be a "good" ground. See 2) 2) presence of voltage is not enough to conclude the bulb will see the exact voltage. Let's say you connect a 10k ohm resistor to the battery and measure the other end of the resistor, you will see 12v. But now if you connect your bulb to that 12v source via the resistor, your bulb will not light up because it won't have enough current going through it. The voltage the bulb sees will be close to 0. In other words, measuring the voltage without the load is not conclusive because once the load is connected, the voltage may change (e.g., due to high resistance on the positive side, or negative side, or both)
  9. Actually there's a faster way. Just use one alligator wire to bring out the 12v tab under the bulb, then connect it to the bulb, then use a separate known good ground to connect to the bulb. If it lights up, your ground in the bulb socket is bad.
  10. Use two separate alligator clip wires to bring the metal line/tab out to connect to the bulb (May need an assistance here to connect the alligator clips to the bulb). Then measure the voltage on each metal part on the bulb. Suppose the bulb does not light up, then if the measurements are close to12v, you have a bad ground. If they read close to 0v, you have a bad 12v supply line. Be careful not to short the contacts inside the bulb socket.
  11. So it happened when engine was cold and hot? Has the fuel filter been replaced?
  12. Unbelievable indeed! Is it a Porsche service center or an indy?
  13. Looks pretty good to me. The idle seems a bit high at 770 (spec is 700 +/-40 rpm) but probably nothing to worry about if there are no codes. All the emission related tests in Durametric show "PASSED"?
  14. George, if you go back to post #29, the RKATs although negative, they were only at ~ -2%. Seems too small to call that running RICH, whereas in post #8, the RKATs were positive at 4+% so a stronger indication that the engine is running LEAN. As to your second question, if the EVAP purge valve is leaking, all the vapor adds to the fuel so the engine will always run RICH hence the valve is check only under RICH condition (or "below limit" condition). There's no end to this because the fuel keeps evaporating, especially if you give it vacuum (will evap even faster).
  15. Yes, 6 and 10. Sorry for the typo. Good call giving them the vin to verify fit.
  16. Hi Thomas, That is a surprise indeed. I'm curious how they came to that conclusion (not challenging them but rather would like to learn how). From your 1st post, you had problem when the engine was running/idling so it's hard to imagine that's related to the starter... Anyway, good luck and you need a break man!
  17. No, unless you want to replace your ac lines with coolant lines :) The AC lines are #6 and #8 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=813-25 One is fatter than the other.
  18. Your link is blocked by my company. Give me a minute...
  19. Those are AC lines on the right side of the car.
  20. I prefer the old days, tried-and-true. All these new electromechanical components and their backups seem like extra ropes to hang youself.
  21. Thanks for the update. Indeed sounds like it's been fixed.
  22. Wow, that doesn't sound like a very safe design. What if power to that solenoid is cut for whatever reason (blown fuse, shorted wires, etc.) when driving?
  23. Best is to show us a photo of the said lines and I'm sure someone here knows.
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