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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks. Makes sense. The OP used the dipstick and said "...the dipstick shows over the full line (where it is about 1.5mm over)." I would not think that 1.5mm makes any appreciable diff hence my comment. But yea if you're worried about 1.5mm overfill on the dipstick, you can always remove the oil from the filter like John suggested.
  2. Ahsai
    The level sounds fine to me. I find it easier to push the filter up all the way to seat it firmly first before installing the housing.
  3. Ahsai
    Lots of ferrous parts...camshafts, cam followers, intake/exhaust valves, piston rings, IMS bearing, oil pump gears, timing chains, gear sprokets, variocam+, etc,...too many to list :)
  4. Ahsai
    More than good enough. I don't think you'll ever see 1600F at the thread of the bolt with the massive metal piece around it.
  5. Ahsai
    Unbelievable! When you said 11v, does it mean your voltage gauge on the dash reads 11v when the engine is running? Or you meant the battery reads 11v in the morning before you crank the car?
  6. Ahsai
    Oil has a coefficient of expansion of ~0.0004/F so with 9 quarts from 70F to 220F. The oil will expand about 0.54 quart (someone checks my math pls) which is significant as the delta between the "min" and "max" marks on the dipstick is only ~1.33 quart.. Basically there are 3 major variables to get accurate and consistent engine oil level: 1) Oil temp (always measure at ambient to avoid expansion explained above. Obviously there's temp variation at ambient too but it's nowhere near 70 to 220F jump) 2) % of oil drained back to the sump (always shut down engine only after oil is hot/thin and wait overnight to allow complete drainage) 3) Car being level (always measure at the same spot) The electronic gauge tries to be smart to estimate 1) and 2) above to compute the "wait time" to get accurate reading, then it also adjusts the reported level based on oil temp. My electronic gauge always agrees with dipstick reading if I measure it in the morning.
  7. Ahsai
    One way I found to have consistent reading on the dipstick is just drive the car for 1/2hr or so, then park it and check the oil the next morning. The reason is all the hot oil drains well back into the oil sump after a whole night and in the morning you're measuring the oil at ambient temp so the oil doesn't expand (as opposed to when it's hot when engine is running).
  8. Ahsai
    If that makes you feel better. I've never heard of 996 owners installing aftermarket remote to avoid paying for the (very expensive) P key and programming. So you're definitely not the minority :)
  9. Ahsai
    Yes, replace the bolts with new ones.
  10. Ahsai
    Btw, new bolts are recommended by Porsche as these are one-time use bolts.
  11. Ahsai
    Use kroil or at least PB blaster. Where do you put the oil? The bolt threads into the wheel carrier so the threads that engaged are pretty deep beyond the brake caliper. If you only put oil on the bolt head, the oil may not even reach the threads. Maybe try to put the oil between the caliper and the wheel carrier hoping it will creep to the threads? Also use a quality 1/2" socket bit such as Snapon. They bite better and will give you all the torque you need.
  12. Ahsai
    I use this high temp glue to glue them back onto the brake pads. http://www.thermotec.com/products/12005-heavy-duty-spray-adhesive.html
  13. Ahsai
    I'm quite pleased with these bulbs https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/silverstar-ultra.aspx on a non-Porsche car. They are quite bright and white compared to stock halogens. Same wattage as the OE and it's a direct replacement so i think it should be safe. http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-SilverStar-Ultra-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B0012ETPUE
  14. Ahsai
    I cannot see how jacking up the car can make your steering wheel off center. Are you sure it was not like that before?
  15. Ahsai
    This gotta be the longest alternator/starter/battery thread ever :) Good luck with the repair!
  16. Ahsai
    Is this one good enough? oil.pdf
  17. Ahsai
    FYI, Porsche spec for measuring ride height. You can measure it yourself at home. Page 277-279 here http://books.google.com/books?id=RaanuEGHWuwC&pg=PA278&lpg=PA278&dq=porsche+x74+ride+height&source=bl&ots=FgTbPCgP-M&sig=keUlhezPJKhJO5vvkI6YUu46DSE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GshjU8SWIsbboASkp4D4Dw&ved=0CFoQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=porsche%20x74%20ride%20height&f=false
  18. Ahsai
    +1 on the DIY. I'm sure someone will benefit from it.
  19. Ahsai
    If possible, the most accurate way is to back probe the sensor pins when the sensors are still connected. Then you can push the gas pedal and see if you measure any voltage changes at the sensors. Short of that, disconnecting the sensor and measuring the socket side is the next best test.
  20. Ahsai
    Did you mean the pedal position sensor or the TPS on the throttle body? It almost sounds like you lose the ground connection to these sensors (hence the maxed out voltages you saw) but yet these sensors have separate ground pins at the DME. That's why I suggest unplugging each sensor and test the socket side and see if you have +5v signal and a good ground from the DME. If you do, at least you know the connection between the sensor and the DME is fine.
  21. Ahsai
    How would I connect a gauge manually though? Most oil pressure testers come with adaptors. You need the 14mm x 1.5mm one (same as the oil pressure sender). Remove the sender and screw in this adaptor http://t.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
  22. Ahsai
    Even with a new pressure sender, we still can't be sure about the accuracy of the gauge in the dash. I think to be 100% sure, a physical gauge connected directly to the engine is the way to go.
  23. Ahsai
    Have you tried hooking up a good pressure gauge to measure the oil pressure directly? The oil pressure sensor is mechanical inside and not the most precise piece of sensor in the world. Of course the oil pressure gauge in the dash may not be very precise either.
  24. Ahsai
    On a 996, it's under and behind the dash right where your right knee points to when you're in the driver's seat. Just trace that cable from the pedal and you should find it. Figure 1 here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/94-ELEC-Sprint_Booster/94-ELEC-Sprint_Booster.htm of course without the sprint booster in place.
  25. Ahsai
    Second the wiggle test reco. The 30.07% pedal position looks like a substitued value for limp mode (due to lack of connection like John said). You can also remove the intake so you can see if the throttle plate is fully open like Durametric indicated. You can do the following tests with a multimeter. 1) Unplug the pedal position sensor (PPS - two individual potentiometers inside). With key on engine off, test the socket side of the PPS for +5V and GROUND for BOTH potentiometers (page 2 of attached pdf). To test for GROUND, connect the red probe of the multimeter to 12v and the black probe to the pin you're measuring. 12v indicates ground. 0v indicates an OPEN. 2) Repeat 1) for TPS (page 1 of the pdf below for DME 7.2 but 7.8 should be similar but please verify) 3) Unplug the battery, DME, PPS, and TPS and test all the wires for continuity between the DME and both sensor sockets. TPS-and-PPS.pdf
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