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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    You don't need the resistor from the kit. Just replace the 3 pin burnt transistor and you should be good to go.
  2. Ahsai
    https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/815258-variocam-actuator-trigger-voltage-2.html https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/697289-help-with-986-ecu-repair.html
  3. Ahsai
    Glad that was it. All the info you needed was in the thread mentioned a few posts above with pics too. Yes, get the 373 and you are good to go.
  4. Ahsai
    Don't have much to go on but can you check this? - Reset the DME using Durametric - Disconnect the battery for 10minutes and reconnect it - Reconnect Durametric but do NOT start the engine - Read all the FRA and RKAT. Should be 1.0 and 0.0, respectively - All 4 O2 sensor voltage. Should read ~0.44v on all 4 I just want to see if the DME has been reset and if the O2 circuits are healthy. Btw, are the precat O2 sensors stock with 4 wires each? Also, it feels like something preventing the DME from entering closed loop. Will need to verify DME gets all it's looking for: MAF, intake temp, coolant temp, CPS, cam sensors, O2 sensor heater, O2 sensor, knock sensors, e.g. are all these sensors connected and providing the correct signals. Not reporting failures could be because some failures require closed loop as a pre-condition before running tests.
  5. Ahsai
    Yes, all those lines are under pressure with a//c on or off. The only way to fix it properly is to evacuate all the refridgerant, replace the bad parts, then vacuum and refill.
  6. Ahsai
    Those are a/c lines. The fluid is a/c fluid. Is your a/c cold? You can see the parts here.
  7. Ahsai
    You're welcome. Please also check fuse B8 (alarm). Is the unit you put in a genuine Porsche door lock? I suspect it has something to do with the alarm system because the passenger lock, front lid and rear lid are all controlled by the alarm unit. The door lock assemblies are also fully connected to the alarm. I suspect somehow the alarm is armed so you can't start the car.
  8. Ahsai
    What does the voltmeter in the cluster read when you turn the key to the last position before cranking? Fuses C1-C4 and E1 are good? Also should check fuses for interior lights and door locks. Next suspect will be the ignition switch.
  9. Ahsai
    I don't know if it's easy on a Boxster but if you can unplug the bank 2 solenoid then power the solenoid with a 9v battery when the engine is idling. If the solenoid and actuator both work properly, the engine note will change. If not, you will need to investigate the DME/wire side to see why the solenoid is not getting power/ground.
  10. Ahsai
    Well, they sell parts and don't rebuild engines so I would not hold my bar too high ?
  11. Ahsai
    Then it would be tough to troubleshoot. I guess you could still open up the DME and check. If there are obvious signs, you find the culprit. If there's not, then it's still not conclusive... Durametric is something you may want to invest. I think there's another one called icarsoft, which is cheaper and MAY be able to activate the variocam as well. I'm not familiar with it though.
  12. Ahsai
    Page 89 is for 3.4L engine and p232 for 3.6. They are very similar. The part that doesn't need sealant is directly above the oil sump so it's ok if oil seeps through there. Just make sure you also apply sealant around the two black coolant gaskets between the case halves (in case it's not clear from the diagrams).
  13. Ahsai
    As long as you disconnect the battery first before removing the DME, you're fine. BTW, to test the DME is good, the easiest way is to unplug the solenoid and plug in a small 12v 5w bulb, then use Durametric to trigger variocam and the light bulb should light up. That way you don't need to remove the cam cover and solenoid. See the details in this thread where I helped another gentleman. It's a bipolar transistor. Spec is here.
  14. Ahsai
    Again, no way for me to know what the tech did. He could have done what you said or he could have used a 9v battery... Also, not clear if his test included the wiring.
  15. Ahsai
    I used the 243 (medium strength and can be loosen by hand tools) on the reused bolts when I rebuilt my m96. As long as those are not torqued to yield (torque + angle), it should be OK to reuse. 263 is the red threadlocker that will require applying heat to loosen. Should not be needed for m96 rebuild.
  16. Ahsai
    Without knowing your actual displacement, I assume it's 2.7 (stock). The MAF reading is definitely too high for a 2.7 engine (idle speed was proper at about 700 so I assume there are no other loads on the engine such as a/c). There is a recent thread here about MAF reading of 996 3.4 and 3.6 engine that were taken by the Torque Pro app. The max MAF for 3.4 was ~213g/s (767 kg/hr) and for 3.6 it's ~241g/s (867.6 kg/hr). One difference is these numbers were measured from the OBDII port and yours seem to be from a Porsche specific scanner. It looks like your engine is in OPEN loop fuel control. Can you read the status with your scanner? I know that OBDII reports this status "Open or close loop" but not sure if Durametric or alike also reports the same. One thread I found about a "stuck" DME is here and the problem was water intrusion into the immobilizer. Some similarities but not exactly the same. May be useful to read up too.
  17. Ahsai
    Wow, glad I asked. I have highlighted what I think are suspicious items that should be checked/understood. Your intake has extensive modifications. I understand you retained the MAF and stock MAF air tube so it should still be measuring correctly. However, that tube (where the MAF plugs onto) relies on smooth flow so any mods before it could cause turbulence that throw off the MAF reading. The CKP I'm not sure if modifying the gap makes a difference but I remember the DME does need to learn the flywheel and adapt to its pattern (Durametric has two values for this if memory serves). Not sure how these play into fuel control. You cut off the crankcase ventilation and EVAP from the intake and I think this would be a major one. The reason is the stock DME does expect these flows AFTER the MAF/throttle body and the stock fuel mapping takes into account these "leak" which are not detected by the MAF. The crankcase contains mainly air and very little fuel but the EVAP ventilation could contain significant amount of fuel, depending on the state of the charcoal canister. Stripped wiring is always suspicious. Are there any error codes reported by the DME? So is your engine still a 2.7L or it's not? You said the stroke was not modified but you never mentioned the bore...You just need to tell me if it's still stock displacement or not if you don't want to disclose the actual displacement.
  18. Ahsai
    Need some more clarification to avoid misdiagnosis. There are two wires powering the solenoid: 12v and ground. Both have to be working in order to activate the solenoid. The 12v is hot whenever ignition is in the last position before crank (i.e. key ON engine OFF) so it's easy for a tech to check the 12v on the solenoid plug. However, the ground is controlled/supplied by the DME and it's more difficult to test. When they said there's power they could have meant just 12v supplied to the solenoid but have they actually tested the solenoid gets the ground from the DME? If the power transistor in the DME is bad, the ground will not be supplied properly. The simplest test is to remove the solenoid (but leave it plugged in), key ON engine OFF, just use Durametric to activate the solenoid. If the solenoid pin comes out 1/8" or so, you have verified all the DME, power transistor, wires, solenoid in one go. Then the only thing left is the actuator assuming there are no other codes. The P1539 code requires that there are no other faults detected such as cam position sensor.
  19. Ahsai
    Any other intake mods other than a 996 throttle body?
  20. Ahsai
    Re-reading your MAF numbers again I have a question. Did you increase your engine displacement or it's still at 2.7L after rebuild? The reason I asked is at idle 17.8kg/hr @700 rpm sounds very high for a 2.7L. More importantly, a 2.7L max MAF should be ~652 kg/hr (based on my computation with some approximation with IAT and atmos. pressure) but you got 700+. Have you tried a different MAF?
  21. Ahsai
    Thanks. It was a complete rebuild to 3.8L Nickies from a stock 996 3.6L.
  22. Ahsai
    Ah, now I see you've already replaced the solenoid and actuator, my guess would be wiring or bad power transistor in the DME. Both can be verified in the steps above.
  23. Ahsai
    The code is complaining that despite DME activating the variocam solenoid in bank2, the expected change in timing is not detected by the bank 2 cam sensor. There are many things to check but at a high level the troubleshooting involves checking the following (in this order approximately): - Use Durametric to try to activate the solenoid and see if the engine sounds different (it should). Can compare with bank 1. If no difference, it means the variocam is not actuated correctly - Check if the solenoid gets the 12v and ground (can use Durametric to activate it and replace the solenoid by a small 5w 12v bulb) -> If no power, it could be the wiring or the power transistor inside the DME - Check the Solenoid resistance (could be a bad solenoid) - Remove the solenoid. Apply 9v power and see if the pin comes out 1/8" or so - If none of the above, it's likely the variocam actuator. If the engine has been rebuilt and always had this fault, it could be wrong installation of the plunger or missing green o-ring. The above assumes the engine timing is fine (e.g. it's been running fine and the problem just popped up, as opposed to the engine just been rebuilt)
  24. Ahsai
    I wish we could do that in CA haha
  25. Ahsai
    I just saw you may have a tiptronic, which will be heavier than a manual transmission. My previous post was assuming a manual transmission.
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