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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Sounds like the servo that controls the flap is not providing the correct feedback of the flap position? Have you tried to bench test the servo? You can hook up a 5v supply (from any USB power plug) to the potentiometer of the servo (pin 3 = 5v, pin 1 = 0v), then power the servo motor with a 9v battery (on pins 4 and 5, or 6, can't tell for sure in the diagram). Diff polarity will move the arm in diff directions. You can then check the potentiometer output (pin 2) and verify that it outputs 0.5v to 4.1v smoothly and continuously when the arm sweeps through its full range of motion in both directions. junk3.pdf
  2. Ahsai
    Haha, no worries. It happened to a few here. Glad it was that simple!
  3. Ahsai
    The coolant temp sensor is #2 here and yes, you're correct on the MAF and throttle connectors. I think verifying the sparks will be the next logical step like you said before.
  4. Ahsai
    No, the O2 sensors will not prevent the engine from firing. However, a bad coolant temp sensor reading may change the air/mixture so much that the engine won't fire up. If you do have sparks, I would check the coolant temp sensor and MAF connections. If you do not have sparks, I would check the connections on the throttle body, crank position sensor, and cam sensors.
  5. Ahsai
    BTW, what are the units of the ambient pressure? I assume mbar? I wonder why they differ so much between the runs. Maybe taken at very different altitudes?
  6. Ahsai
    The bigger one normally snap on a plastic bracket close to the right rear lamp.
  7. Ahsai
    The bigger one you can ignore. It's supposed to be unplugged and it's used only for diagnostic purposes. The smaller one looks like for fuel injector but many other sensors use that same BOSCH connector so I'm not sure.
  8. Ahsai
    Hi Bob, glad you got it sorted out.The 920 rpm idle speed still seems a little high. Was the a/c ON? The TRAs are much better now.
  9. Ahsai
    You still have passenger side airbag and two door airbags to check. Your DMEs are 5 plugs, right? Can you check continuity between socket IV pin 40 and pin 2 of start lock relay? If you have continuity there, that means neither DME enables the start lock relay. One potential suspect is the connection between the RFID pick up ring on the ignition switch and the immobilizer as that's common for both DMEs, similar to missing airbags. The crank sensor will not prohibit the starter from spinning and it's clear the start lock relay doesn't get the ground signal from the DMEs. Agree that you need at least Durametric to narrow down the issues.
  10. Ahsai
    Good point. Btw, are both DMEs non-gas? I don't think e-gas and non-egas are interchangeable.
  11. Ahsai
    It does sound like you have issues between between the DME and the immobilizer. With that history and aftermarket add-ons, I guess anything is possible. Maybe time to visit a good indy for help.
  12. Ahsai
    Congrats! Glad you got it sorted finally.
  13. Ahsai
    I think the pin 2 0v may not be the true ground because if it was, the start lock relay should click and you should be able to at least start the starter. Can you swap in another relay for the start lock relay? Also, can you measure the voltage between pin 7 and pin 2 (instead of measuring the pins with respect to the chassis ground) and see if you get 12v?
  14. Ahsai
    Also check pin 7 of "MFI + DI" relay, which is connected to pin 26 of DME. It should have 12v always hot.
  15. Ahsai
    BTW, is the metal key blade and the key fob one piece like normal or you just put the key fob close to the ignition switch when you crank using the key blade only?
  16. Ahsai
    I think it's still too early to conclude it's a DME-immobilizer pairing problem although it could very well be. The reason is you wrote "2. Someone had recently fiddled with DME/relay panel behind rear seats as well as the immobilizer unit under drivers seat. " That doesn't sound good. Note the rear relay panel houses the relays to fuel injection, start lock relay, etc. All engine related http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8747328-post2.html Think about it more, forget about the SAI relay. You can just test the start lock relay again - pin 7/86 should have 12v with key on engine off. This connects directly to DME pin 54 you wanted to test (via the "26" merge point) - pin 2/85 should have ~0v with key on engine off. DME provides ground to this pin when it allows the starter to crank
  17. Ahsai
    Ok, at least your starter and ignition switch are working. No, oil pressure gauge should read very close to 0-1 when cranking. Most likely the oil pressure sensor is not connected or the sensor is bad (disconnect = infinite resistance = highest reading). I'm reading the exact same wiring diagrams as you for the pins, focusing on sheets 12 and 16. You cannot just jump the fuel pump and ignition and expect the engine to fire up. There are many possibilities and unfortunately you will have to eliminate them one by one, starting with the easiest. - Check fuse B8 and ALL the other fuses that are related to engine, DME, etc. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8516331-post7.html - Check the fuse on the immobilizer unit. To check the pins on the DME directly with the DME still connected, you need the DME breakout box. I would suggest checking other points to verify if the DME is even trying to fire the engine (e.g., sheet 12, M113 you see a small square merging point called "26"., which is directly connected to pin #54 of the DME. If the DME activates the fuel/ignition, this point will have 12v and so will all the lines that are connected to it. Therefore, you can check pin #7 of secondary air injection relay, which is a lot easier to access. Of course, this assumes you don't have a wiring problem so if you do see 12v with key on engine off, that means the DME is at least trying to activate the fuel/ignition.
  18. Ahsai
    Checked fuse C3? Did you check the fuse for continuity using a multimeter?
  19. Ahsai
    You're welcome!
  20. Ahsai
    See this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/36978-code-p0446/
  21. Ahsai
    +1 Mine didn't show up till 20 min into the test.
  22. Ahsai
    You may have multiple issues but at least you can try to jump the start lock relay to crank the car and do some troubleshooting using this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45047-2000-996-wont-turn-over/ If you get the starter to spin but engine still can't fire up, you will have to check if there's fuel injection and ignition. If not, it may be the immobilizer disabling those or there are other reasons such as bad/no crank position signal.
  23. Ahsai
    In case you are serious, just dual it out on a real race track :) Should be pretty obvious with equal drivers.
  24. Ahsai
    No, because its driven by a transistor. Without load, the voltage reading usually is not conclusive anyway due to the nonlinear nature of solid state circuits. What matters is with a good relay connected whether it can supply a solid ground to that pin.
  25. Ahsai
    You're right it's almost the same as x74 fender to ground. I have 25" to 25.5" for all four wheels. Now you know what you've been missing with PSS9 :)
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