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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    No,those are the exhaust ports of the coolant fans. Um, actually it does look like something is missing....not sure.
  2. Ahsai
    Just curious how did you catch it in time before the engine grenades?
  3. Ahsai
    Also, it would be good to id what exactly that fluid was as it's not normal to leak ANY fluid.
  4. Ahsai
    Could be just residual air trapped in the system. Have you tried driving the car with the bleeder valve open for a few days?
  5. Ahsai
    Any AAA equivalent in your country that offers car opening service? I've seen a pro putting an inflator between the door glass and door frame to wedge it open enough to stick in a long steel rid to hook the inside door handle. It was not on a P car though so not sure how well it works. Tools similar to this http://www.spyemporium.com/car-lockout-tool/wedge-inflatable-car-door-opening-tool/
  6. Ahsai
    Sadly this link is no longer valid. Does anyone have a chart for the relays in each position of both panels? I'm specifically looking for the fuel pump and DME relays. Many thanks http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/22185-relay-box/?p=115501http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41529-relay-location/?p=221230
  7. Ahsai
    It's hard to say whether the residual air trapped inside the system can be extracted by the tool. Imagine a U-shape tube filled with liquid but there's some air trapped at the bottom of the "U". Now if you apply vacuum to both ends of the U-tube simultaneously, you will never be able to extract the trapped air. You can always try the tool and see if it works first but if your coolant tank is already full, I doubt it will work well. You can check to see if air bubbles are being sucked out in the coolant tank. Otherwise, I guess the best option would be to drain the 2 gal coolant and start over with the refill tool.
  8. Ahsai
    http://www.porscheownersmanuals.com/2011-cayenne/4/245/ :)
  9. Ahsai
    Or you can find someone local to you who don't mind helping http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21656-pst2-piwis-durametric-tool-registry/
  10. Ahsai
    Well done!
  11. Ahsai
    Got it. I definitely see how this doesn't apply to your case. Hope someone will chime in soon to offer tips for R&R of that line.
  12. Ahsai
    Not sure if it will work in your case but I've read someone successfully repair a hole in the aluminum a/c line with something like this http://www.alumiweld.com/ http://muggyweld.com/aluminum-welding Edit: added one more link
  13. Ahsai
    Check out Figures 5 &6 here. Looks like you need to at least remove the lower glovebox panel to see the airbox. You can actually see the blower motor on top right of figure 6 and parts 13&14 above in the middle of same figure. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/30-BODY-Glove_Box_Catch_Replacement/30-BODY-Glove_Box_Catch_Replacement_mobile.htm
  14. Ahsai
    Circled in red are the spouts that connect the heater core to the engine coolant hoses through the firewall so perhaps you can trace from the engine side to locate the assembly better. Circled in blue is the blower motor.
  15. Ahsai
    That whole air box including the blower (grayed out in the first diagram) should live under the right side of the dash for most cars. So try to look behind your glove box area.
  16. Ahsai
    Yes, you should install it. Note the mentioning of "vent" here http://www.worldsourceone.com/wso-batteries/wso-batteries Check your battery area and you should see something like this http://www.euroaddiction.net/forum/996-997-turbo-diy-how-section/6180-porsche-996-diy-battery-replacement.html You can get that OE elbow piece here (part #3) http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=902-05
  17. Ahsai
    Sounds like a good plan.
  18. Ahsai
    Obviously you have another oil temp sensor that reads the oil temp that Durametric is reading. The oil level you have seems to be the same one that VW and Audi use http://www.niparts.com/MAC/28C1B4/HELLA/6PR008079081.html It has three pins +ve, -ve, and signal like shown here http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2797528 I think the sensor is at the top of the probe where the correct oil level has to reach before the sensor will register the oil level (and possibly oil temp) reading. So it sounds very possible your oil level is truly low that it doesn't touch the top part of the probe. I would second Mitjostin's reco of draining the oil and measure it. Other than that, not sure how to troubleshoot the sender nor the instrument cluster. There's instrument cluster test for 996 in Durametric where it cycles all the gauges in full range. So you couldn't find the same for your car?
  19. Ahsai
    Many thanks, Ahsai! Btw, that part seems to be only available here http://www.busdepot.com/155298121
  20. Ahsai
    Have you tried swapping the plugs or putting in a new plug in cyl 3? Do you have more details of the error codes?
  21. Ahsai
    Sounds like to me they were looking for excuses and NOT trying to diagnose your car properly. What's the business relationship between this shop and Carmax and the maxcare warranty? Can you take your car to another shop for diagnosis? If they truly thought the oil level was the problem and wanted to diagnose it, all they needed to do is to add 1/2 quart of oil and carry on with the diagnosis.
  22. Ahsai
    Phew! I thought you still have issues when I opened this thread... Very nice looking car and I love the subtle wheels haha
  23. Ahsai
    Post #1 here talks about the foam VW use with p/n. Looks promising. http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?3563354-Foam-Replacement-Kit-for-Heater-Box-Flaps
  24. Ahsai
    Check out Fig 4 and Fig 7 here. Also looks like a dual row to me. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/14-ENGINE-IMS_Bearing/14-ENGINE-IMS_Bearing_mobile.htm
  25. Ahsai
    Have you tried if your instrument gauge reads anything if you unplug the oil temp sender when the engine is still ON? Then plug it back in and check again? Also, there got to be some way you can measure the resistance of the sender (with it unplugged) to have a sanity check that the sender itself is working correctly.
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