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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Which I've been told by multiple sources is very small. And just for the record, I am not say that Raoult's law is wrong, but I am questioning its applicability to the situation. Understood and we are saying the same e.g., Raoult's law assumes the presence of vapor pressure that exists during equilibrium where the number of molecules escaping the liquid and those entering the liquid are the same for the same solute. That can't be true in the slightly vacuum crankcase. One of the things that bothers me most about Raoult's law is that it only applies to "ideal solutions", which tend to be rare in the real world. One characteristic of an ideal solution is that when the solvent and solute are mixed, there is no change in total volume. Anyone can pour 95 cc of fresh engine oil into a graduated measuring cylinder, then add 5 cc of fuel and mix, and they will end up with 100 cc of total mix and a 5% fuel dilution level. Oil and fuel do not form an "ideal solution", so Raoult's law does not apply. That too but at least at low concentration (which is the case here with 9L of engine oil with small amount of fuel dilution), the law can still act as a good approximation (per the we page you referred to). To me, the whole premise of vapor pressure breaks down because vapor pressure only exists in a closed system http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_pressure where molecules are constantly going back and forth between the gas and liquid to attain equilibrium, whereas in the crankcase, molecules in the gas are drawn out constantly to the intake manifold for burning and never returned to the oil in the crankcase.
  2. Which I've been told by multiple sources is very small. And just for the record, I am not say that Raoult's law is wrong, but I am questioning its applicability to the situation. Understood and we are saying the same e.g., Raoult's law assumes the presence of vapor pressure that exists during equilibrium where the number of molecules escaping the liquid and those entering the liquid are the same for the same solute. That can't be true in the slightly vacuum crankcase.
  3. My 2cents below just because it's fun :) 1. Raoult's law applies to volatile solution mix too. There are some examples about benzene and toluene mixture on the same page John quoted above 2. Raoult's law applies only to an enclosed container environment. Once we introduce vacuum (~5mm H2O), the law may not apply. With vacuum, there's no concept of vapor pressure anyway. 3. Raoult's law applies only if the solute does not chemically form a different substance with the solvent (also from the page John quoted above) I tend to agree with John that part of the fuel reacts chemically with the engine oil, which may not be boiled off at engine temp. However, for the part that doesn't react with the engine oil, it should get burned off easily due to its high vapor pressure (much higher than water) and the slight crankcase vacuum and engine temp. Just think about how well pure fuel evaporates even within the gas tank even without vacuum and engine temp applied. So I think it boils down to how much of gas chemically reacts to the engine oil.
  4. Brake light switch to MAF to ABS....too many possibilities. You may want to check if there are people with Durametric in your area who may offer help http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21656-pst2-piwis-durametric-tool-registry/
  5. If it does not have the option for you to connect to the ABS unit, most likely not adequate.
  6. Is your scanner of generic OBDII type? If so, you need Porsche specific ones such as Durametric.
  7. You need Durametric or Porsche factory scanners to reset it.
  8. Never tried but does it need special tools like these? http://www.ecstuning.com/ES11415/
  9. The bolt is probably just resting on top of the crankcase. Even with the air filter box removed, you can't see it? You may want to make sure its not stuck between the belt and one of the pulleys. In any case, the coupler should be bolted down since it's very close to the belt.
  10. Yes, that's a great tip.
  11. Exactly, hence my reply (post #25) above. However, I can't explain though, why with the new known good DME/ACU pair, Durametric manages to see the DME but not the ACU. That's really puzzling. Anyhow, I agree it looks like a wiring issue.
  12. Regarding your question, all the security related codes should be stored in the RFID, the immobilizer and the DME onboard internally. Only in these 3 items. http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-boxster-ecu-immobilizer-removal.html
  13. Hey Silver, yeah I think that's quite possible.
  14. Could you wiggle the immobilizer connectors or unplug and reseat them and retest? You mentioned before that you got some strange behaviors when wiggling the immobilizer connectors.
  15. If I am mot mistaken modern organic coolants are not compatible with brass fittings. If you are going to replace this fitting with a non-Porsche item I would use a plastic connector. Quite possible. That's another argument for going with OE parts (which I also proposed). No risks and no thinking required :)
  16. Excellent. You can try Sunset Porsche for parts next time. They are excellent and in South coast with super fast shipping (I'm in SoCal also).
  17. That's called the Oetiker style clamp which needs a special crimping tool and it's one time use. Most people just replace those with regular stainless steel hose clamps (e.g., Norma or any hgh quality european stainless steel clamps), preferably not the cheap types that cut into the hosse. You can get that broken plastic couple as well for a few dollars. Mine lasted 10+ yrs and it's still going so when the time comes, I won't bother fabricating one with brass or whatever. All the parts are available here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10 (except the non-OE stainless steel clamps)
  18. That's good to know at least in some cases there are warning signs. Glad you caught it in time before a catastrophic failure. I seldom see tiptronics having the IMS problem though. I think you are unlucky but yet lucky enough to dodge the bullet.
  19. Good progress. Could be the notorious coupler that's easy to break. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34150-coolant-problem/
  20. The msg you quoted in post #3 was not for your car, right? That was for 5.2 (single plug) and both your 99 and 01 have 5-plug. I think you can swap the 01 DME in and scan it with Durametric to see if it can connect to the DME. If not, you may want to check for continuity of the "w-lead" between the DME and the immobilizer - Plug 1/pin 3 on the DME and plug I/pin 23 of the immobilizer. If this wire is open, Durametric will be able to talk to the immobilizer but not the DME.
  21. Also check out photos #14-17 in this link http://rennlist.com/forums/8278466-post1.html #16 and 17 show the coolant gasket that you cut off and discard from the water pump gasket when you installed it. The leak could be from there.
  22. Hi Mike, I think the mechanic should be able to tell you what he has checked and what he plans to check next. Since this is not an intermittent problem, they really have no excuses. They should have some ideas by now. E.g., he may tell you the DME is not closing the start lock relay but they can't tell why and it will take further tests. I'm in SoCal....would have given you a hand if I were close to you.
  23. Btw, the more difficult outcome of the above is you've eliminated the relay, clutch switch, ignition switch, and starter and found that the DME is not powering the relay, which likely points to the immobilizer. You can at least check the fuse on the immobilizer itself. Did you a different key btw?
  24. I really hope they don't need tips from you but if it was me, I would first remove the start lock relay and jump pins 30 and 87 of the relay to see if the starter engages (car in neutral). If it does, check the relay itself. If the relay and starter check out, check if the relay socket gets power from DME (voltage ~12v between pin 85 and 86 when key in last position before crank and clutch is IN) and ignition switch (pin 30 gets 12v when you crank). Then you need further testing depending on what you find. All these can be done with a $10 digital voltmeter.
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