Ahsai

So you finally ditch the Cayenne for a Mercedes!! Hahah j/k :) I'll have to watch the whole video later. It's very slow now...maybe problems on my side. I bet you just the new transmission oil and filter will make it run much smoother. I found it funny and ironic that you need to hook up an "ATM" machine (automated teller machine) to maintenance these cars :)

http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/12-Volt/Batterimonitor-1224-V-43332/ :) That should work too as long as it's accurate. Maybe a good idea to verify its accuracy to avoid false reading leading you down the wrong diagnostic branch :)

Thanks, Silver! I had problems finding it myself a few times haha

Thanks, John! Hopefully this will help others.

This is the voltage drop test write up Silver mentioned http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47504-troubleshooting-low-voltage-and-charging-issues/

Does the cluster give you an warning in words that mentioned coolant level? Per the owner manual, the flashing light can also mean the engine compartment fan is not working so that may also be something to look at after you exhausted other possibilities. Frequency of blinking also gives you more info http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/35785-986-coolant-light-blinking-temp-at-bottom-of-scale/?p=189666

Making this a separate post for easier searching. If your voltage reading is low but you don't know what causes it, you can do the tests below to identify the culprit(s). All you need is a $15 multimeter and some cables. Run your engine till warm and low voltage shows up, then let it idle and turn on the a/c and the low beam. The current draw from the alternator should now be ~50A. You can then do the following tests. I drew a diagram with the corresponding parts. - Zoom Active - - Zoom Active - Test #1: check voltage drop between point "C" (alternator casing) and "B-" (call that V(C, B-)). Note "B+' and "B-" are the actual battery terminal posts and not the cable connectors on the terminals. This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the ground side. Expect 0.2v or less. If your ground strap is bad, it will show up in this test. Test #2: check V(A, B+) where "A" = alternator output at the back of the alternator that you can't see (use an inspection mirror) and expect ~0.5v or less. "A" is hard to get to. I fabricated a J-shape hook using a stiff insulated wire and just literally probe it blindly from behind. Wear protective goggles here since you will be close to the drive belt, a hot engine, and the always LIVE "A". This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the power side. Test #3: check V(A, J) and expect ~0.2v. This tests #21, which is the infamous cable that can corrode and Porsche has also revised it. Test #4: check V(J, B+) and expect ~0.3v or less. Test #5: check V(A, C), your alternator output and expect 13.5v or higher. Your problem is gonna show up in one of the tests above. See tool to access the back of the alternator

Good detective work! Someone bad has been there before...

Welcome! It's best if you can start a new thread or at least tell us the yr/model info and any error codes and symptoms. The more relevant info the better.

and yeah listen to Thomas, he's the expert on this topic after what he has been through :)

Not sure if you can get this in Sweden but I highly recommend this handy battery/alternator tester. It's super accurate with two digits after the decimal point and it uses almost no current so you can leave it plugged in 7/24 w/o worrying about it draining the battery. You can see the voltage through the window when you walk up the car before you unlock it and all electronics start to lower the battery voltage.

Very interesting. Definitely not something you can get from the boring troubleshooting flow charts.

^That's where experience counts :) So why the drive belt was slipping? Bad belt/tensioner?

If it happens again, maybe worthwhile to disconnect the battery, unplug and clean the connector contacts of the alarm module with Deoxit (under the passenger seat) and re-plug the connectors.

Would be easier if you can get the car scanned by Durametric or alike to get the actual fault codes and go from there.

Isn't it great that these cars fix themselves? :)

There's one common ground point (GP4) for both switches around the instrument cluster area. I can't imagine how that gets disturbed though by R&R the starter.

Per the wiring diagram, there are no relays. The alarm control module connects to the window switches, which in turn connect to the individual window motor units. Looks like there are power/overload protection circuits inside these motor units as they take multiple inputs to activate the windows including direct inputs (comfort OPEN/close) from the alarm control module. Since both of the window switches don't work, it's likely something common to both - fuses or the alarm control module.

Boy, I really hope it is not that bad. :( I should get my ODB2 scanner in today, I'll see if there are any codes. A generic OBDII scanner will not be able to retrieve anything related to the immobilizer/alarm though. You need Durametric at a minimum.

For what it's worth, that doesn't really indicate anything though IMHO. In other words, I would still always scan with a Porsche-specific tool (PIWIS/PST2/Durametric). I have seen generic readers give the wrong information on numerous occasions. Not saying that the codes you have are wrong, but they are definitely not 100% reliable coming out of a generic reader and could potentially lead you down a wrong, and more expensive, path. +1. Also, Porsche scanner also allows you to check the cam timing in realtime. A proper diagnostic is needed for these cars as throwing parts at it will get expensive quickly.

Anytime. Hopefully that's the culprit. It's like a spark plug that screws into the cam cover so no need to drop the engine. That's the advantage of variocam+

Strange indeed. The control module should be reset when you disconnect the car battery. Can you use the key to roll the window half way down, then try to use the center console switches to operate the windows? I wonder if it has anything to do with the window reset procedures normally performed after battery re-connection. Obviously your windows get power and SOME inputs from the control module work. Just not the inputs from the switches.

How about fuse B6?

How about fuse D1?

No direct experience but found this thread mentioning P0022 troubleshooting for 996 Turbo. I think it may also apply to your model. The diagnostic steps call for testing the variocam+ timing hydraulic solenoid using a special tool, which most likely simulates the DME and supplies PWM pulses to activate the solenoid. So if those codes are real, the simplest case could be just a faulty bank 2 timing solenoid, which also explains the bank 2 misfires.