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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Agree with dporto. Clarification though, you said "The car will accelerate but then there will be a slight drop in rpms and it will then accelerate again." Does that mean when you give gas, engine will rev up and car will accelerate with the rev (if so, there's no clutch slipping. This is also the most likely place for clutch slipping in this sequence), then rev will drop for 400rpm and car will decelerate with that (almost like fuel cut but smoothly). Then rev will go back up normal and car will accelerate again?
  2. Ahsai
    Here you go http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=202-00 When you test the alternator pulley, you could try to spin it quickly, then stop the pulley abruptly. The internal armature should still keep spinning.
  3. Ahsai
    Looks like throttle body, cross-over tubes, the oil fill tube, and the alternator http://986forum.com/forums/319050-post13.html BTW, once you can access that area, you can hook up a vacuum pump to the black/white one-way valve (pic #4) to see if the whole system holds vacuum. You can also test the valves individually by supplying vacuum and power from a 9v battery. You should hear them click and hiss. You *may* be able to access that black/white valve for a quick check even before you remove anything. You could for a 996 but not sure for a Boxster.
  4. Ahsai
    BTW, it may be obvious, if you don't even hear the SAI pump running, you need to check the fuse and the electrical connector to the pump.
  5. Ahsai
    If you can hear the SAI pump running, you may have a vacuum leak e.g., one of the vacuum lines is disconnected or cracked, or the vacuum reservoir is cracked, etc. Since you have a scanner that can read real-time sensor data, you may want to monitor the O2 sensors and use the following diagram on a cold start to check if the exhaust actually sees any air. If not, that means even the pump is running, the air is not getting to the exhaust. That points to vacuum line or changeover valve issue.
  6. Ahsai
    Have you checked the alternator pulley and power steering pump pulley? Yours may have the clutch type that slips when the alternator spins faster than the pulley. I think you may still want to check the noise with the belt off briefly.
  7. Ahsai
    Glad to hear that! :thumbup:
  8. Ahsai
    Thanks John for your reply. I guess I'll just keep monitoring for now and if it creates problems, I'll just get a new one or swap my old one back in.
  9. Ahsai
    It's the stock standard version AOS from Sunset Porsche. The old one was also stock.
  10. Ahsai
    Loren, John, and others, any experience with this type of "failure" or at least out of norm operating point? BTW, I verified my manometer against a home-made manometer (some tubing + water) and confirmed the manometer is extremely accurate. I should also mention that I've also replaced the following: - dipstick tube o-ring and the oil filler tube o-ring. They seem to be leaking a bit (oil stain/dirt around the areas) - the 3 o-rings on the two AOS vent tubes. The 4th one is under the bank 2 intake manifold so I didn't replace it - the vacuum reservoir, which had a small leak at the bottom of it but I don't think that will increase the crankcase vacuum at all. So overall the crankcase and AOS are sealing better, not sure if that contributes to higher crankcase vacuum though. Thoughts?
  11. Ahsai
    +1. Is there a dip stick you can check the power steering fluid level?
  12. Ahsai
    I've recently replaced my AOS as one of the preventive maintenance items. My old one was fine and created ~5" water vacuum measued by a digital manometer at the oil filler cap (I made an adaptor out of an old cap). I just did the same measurement after the new AOS and to my surprise, it read ~9" water vacuum! All measured at idle after engine is fully warmed up. My understanding is the AOS has a spring loaded diaphragm inside that regulates the vacuum (sourced from the throttle body) to maintain ~5" water vacuum in the crankcase. So the only explanation of this high vacuum reading is the new AOS somehow has a weaker spring or a leak that allows more vacuum to "go through". Has anyone experienced this? So much for PM :(
  13. Ahsai
    :thumbup:
  14. Ahsai
    Have you checked if all the spark plugs are tight? I think that's what Wvicary is after. The knocking seems to have the same frequency as ignition on one of the cylinders. You may want to use a mechanic stethoscope to check the cam covers and locate the noise.
  15. Ahsai
    Gotcha. Have you tried cleaning the MAF? Is the engine air filter in good condition? Is your car e-gas or cable throttle?
  16. Ahsai
    When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Do you feel like the clutch is slipping (if it's a stick shift)?
  17. Ahsai
    A plastic clip/clamp? Good job tracking it down!
  18. Ahsai
    Yes, it's safe if you run it only briefly, say less than a minute.
  19. Ahsai
    I've never used one but I seriously doubt a tiny 9v battery is enough to power the interior lights and funk light, which may be ON. I would prefer to rig up one using a 12v lead acid security backup battery (http://www.amazon.com/Alarm-Battery-12-Volt-4-0ah/dp/B002RLQXBU) and connect it to a male cigarette lighter adapter. Then just plug that into the cigarette lighter socket, which is always hot. The cigarette lighter socket is already protected by a 15A fuse so in case you accidentally short out the positive and negative battery cables when the battery is disconnected, you will only blow that 15A fuse.
  20. Ahsai
    Engine mount?
  21. Ahsai
    Checked the fluid on your power steering pump? You can also remove the drive belt and hand spin each pulley to look for abnormal noise. Then run the engine briefly to see if the noise is still there.
  22. Ahsai
    I love mysteries :) BTW, you may want to clean the idle control valve and replace the fuel filter for your idle problem.
  23. Ahsai
    Have you looked under the car on the exhaust al the way from after cat to the tail pipe to find the post-cat O2 sensor? Is the exhaust stock or is it possible someone has modified and removed the second sensor? If the car truly has one sensor only, I don't see how it can detect if the cat has gone bad, which P0420 is referring to.
  24. Ahsai
    Agree with Electrict. Check mode 6 TID $01 CID $01 (catalyst efficiency) and if the number fails, that's the catalytic converter. Are you sure it's not P0420 though? P0430 is bank2 which I don't think the car has. The car uses a regular O2 sensor (non-wideband) so you can also monitor the pre-cat and post-cat sensor signal. The post-cat should stay pretty steady at 0.7 at idle after car is fully warmed up. If the post-cat signal swings similar to the pre-cat, that's an indication the cat is bad. Have you checked for exhaust air leak upstream of the O2 sensors?
  25. Ahsai
    See diagnostic steps for P1117 here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/19325-p1117-and-p1121-on-new-o2-sensors/ P0430 most likely means the cat on bank 2 is out. There are also other causes like air leak in the exhaust. You can read the signals from all 4 sensors in real-time and positively id it's indeed the cat (and not something else). If the post-cat sensor signal swings similar to the pre-cat one, the cat is not functional.
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