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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I think the nut is a self-locking nut (elongated hole instead of round). So maybe try a new nut? I tried to search for the solenoid sold separately to no avail before but please let us know if you're able to source one. You will need to remove the starter from the car to fit the new solenoid so that's some labor as well. A Bosch new starter ~$160 http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SR0808N-New-Starter/dp/B000EPSYG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1424217711&vehicle=2001-2-10-55--8-6-7-1112-31-1-1---10-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2001%3Aporsche%3A911
  2. Ahsai
    Check out my MkII AOS thread here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/851947-mkii-aos-diy.html It may be helpful. Also, you can rig up a simple manometer using the oil filler cap and some clear tube filled with engine oil. You can also get a digital manometer for $50 from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FU5HFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1424033536&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+manometer&dpPl=1&dpID=41aIijLgVpL&ref=plSrchπ=AC_SY200_QL40
  3. Ahsai
    If you want to check simple stuff you can at least check the oil filter for metal shavings and debris. Just remove the filter. You will lose about 1 qt of oil. You may want to shoot a video of the ticking noise here for feedback. If it's determined that your engine is terminal, a roller is only worth a few thousand. A used/rebuilt engine with install should be ~$15k all in.
  4. Ahsai
    This is less likely but have you also checked if there's any oil leak and oil in the coolant?
  5. Ahsai
    Well done!
  6. Ahsai
    Ok, this will be the case I'm glad that I'm wrong :)
  7. Ahsai
    Sorry the Australian plug doesn't work and hope you can get some refund. Good job repairing the connector. How did you find the right part number? Is it printed on the old connector?
  8. Ahsai
    Have you tried putting a new battery in the remote key fob?
  9. Ahsai
    You may want to clean the idle stabilizer. Also, you need to get the car scanned with Duramatric or other Porsche factory scanners to retrieve the actual error code(s) to give you more clues.
  10. Ahsai
    1. No, mine is 99610702651, which is the correct one for MkII (my car is a '03 C2) AFAIK 2. Yeah, I was aware of that article but still puzzled why a brand new AOS will fail 3. Actually I had tested it like you suggested before I installed it. I got the same ~10" H2O reading but thought maybe that's not the proper way to test it because the final crankcase pressure (regulated by the AOS) also depends on the air flow from crankcase to the AOS and the natural crankcase pressure without the AOS. I have no ways to simulate those. Is my thinking correct?
  11. Ahsai
    Yikes! Looks unlikely you can remove the pins without destroying them in the process.
  12. Ahsai
    Sounds like a good plan. BTW, just corrected the 1st link in my previous post http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/955V8PLUG.html
  13. Ahsai
    If the old pins and wires are in good shape and you can reuse them, you just need to remove and transfer the individual pins to the new connector housing so no crimping tools are needed. You need the crimping tools only if you need to replace the pins in which case you most likely will need to cut the original wires and add more wires to make it same length as original. An example of cayenne connector http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/955V8PLUG.html Another example for 997 here http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-New-Connector-Set-For-Porsche-911-996T-GT2-GT3-997-Carrera-Ignition-Coil-/171077008052 Check with your local dealer and they should be able to sell the connector to you or give you the p/n. If you remove the old housing, you may fine very small part numbers printed on it and it's usually manufactured by TE/AMP/Tyco.
  14. Ahsai
    Also sometimes used ones pop up with one or two VIN slots left and priced down accordingly.
  15. Ahsai
    Maybe the tech forgot to plug back the coolant level sender or it's not electrically connected.
  16. Ahsai
    Ok, according to the user manual http://www.northernautoparts.com/files/manuals/performance_tool/W89729_Manual.pdf I think as long as you follow the following steps, set the air compressor regulator to 50-100PSI, and the tester works properly, then I think only the reading on the upper gauge (as % in your photo) matters. It's not clear what the lower gauge of 10PSIG represents. I think there's where the confusion comes from. "6. Set the air compressor’s regulator to 7psi to 100psi. Never operate tool with more than 100psi inlet pressure or damage to the tool can result. 7. Turn the regulator knob clockwise until the cylinder leakage gauge reads “0” at the end of the yellow band"
  17. Ahsai
    JFP is absolutely correct. Try to google "leak down test" for the proper procedures.
  18. Ahsai
    Thanks for the data point!
  19. Ahsai
    You don't need to remove the engine mounts. You only need to put a jack under the engine's strongest point and jack it up a little bit until you feel the engine's weight is on the jack, then remove the big bolt from the bottom of each mount that holds the engine brace. Then you can lower the engine slowly and carefully all the way till it touches (barely resting and not putting load on) the cross member. Then you can add jackstands to support the engine.
  20. Ahsai
    Makes sense.
  21. Ahsai
    Yes, that's the purge valve I was talking about. Do you have Durametric? If you do, you may want to check the RKAT (or TRA) values (fuel trims at idle) and see how bad they are. Hope you know someone who can swap in a known-good MAF for further diagnosis.
  22. Ahsai
    Agree your SAI system seems to be working properly at this time. Also agree that 10-12 kg/hr sounds low. I think you really need to give it a more thorough check for air leak. The usual suspects include cracked oil filler tube (a crude test is remove the oil cap and see if you hear any engine idle change), faulty purge valve (remove valve and try to blow through it), vacuum lines, etc. The most complete leak test is of course using a smoke machine. If no air leak is found, the MAF will be a strong suspect. Any mods to the intake?
  23. Ahsai
    It would be well worth your while to have the car tested for both correct fuel pressure and delivery as well. ^Good point.
  24. Ahsai
    IMHO, the usual suspects in this case will be spark plugs, ignition coils, and fuel pressure related.
  25. Ahsai
    So car and engine slow down together for a split second. That sounds more like engine bogging down for a split second as opposed to clutch slipping. If clutch is slipping, engine rev should stay high when car is not accelerating.
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