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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Figure #20 and #21 here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator/09-ENGINE-Air_Oil_Separator.htm The part http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=104-11 The ones inside the oil sump are for removing air bubbles from the oil.
  2. Ahsai
    If you're going to bring it to a shop, it should check your charging system and any battery drain. Do you remember if the voltmeter on the dash reads 13.5-14.5v all the time whenever the engine is running? If so, it's unlikely your alternator. Maybe you have a drain somewhere, especially if you have aftermarket electronics installed on the car. If the battery is overcharged or undercharged, it can deteriorate quickly. What does the "power kill switch" do?
  3. Ahsai
    Yikes! Glad you got it sorted. I start to think we should make this cable replacement mandatory for anyone having any starting and/or charging issues. Gonna save a lot of troubleshooting time :)
  4. Ahsai
    Yes, I read that's possible on a MkI. So did the cable fix your voltage/start problems?
  5. Ahsai
    No, on a 996, the engine compartment temp sensor is on the right intake manifold between cyl 4&5.
  6. Ahsai
    Oh your AOS is the older version that doesn't have the u-channel as shown in my first post? No wonder you could use an open wrench on bolt #6 on the intake manifold. You should be fine using my steps to reinstall.
  7. Ahsai
    You're welcome and thanks for the tips. I used a cable operated hose clamp plier like this one http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O
  8. Ahsai
    There's a new option now, put together by Jake and Charles. Don't know the price point yet but it will be cheaper than Jake's engines for sure. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870302-rnd-engines-direct-replacement-engine-exchange-program-company-introduction.html
  9. Ahsai
    Tried this? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=103-00
  10. Ahsai
    Best price, quality and service: porschepartshub.com and ecstuning.com Best part photos: ecstuning.com Best exploded parts diagrams: autoatlanta.com
  11. Ahsai
    Sorry I missed that. You're right it's still there and now I'm really drooling :) Good to know the stock DME and fuel injectors are fine. The lifter should have a locking pin (#1 in the diagram) http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/downloadedimages/cs_variocam_plus_003.jpg My understanding is with no oil pressure the pin is not engaged (pushed by spring #6) so you should be able to push in the center piston. The presence of oil pressure should move the pin sideways to lock the center piston to the outer lifter?
  12. Ahsai
    I saw they have the 3.6->3.8L option but didn't see 4.0. Is it off the menu? :) Have you decided? If you go for cc increase, will you need new injectors and new DME tune or pretty much you can reuse everything stock (other than the pistons obviously)?
  13. Ahsai
    I made one using a steel hair clip. See post #8 here and pay special attention to how the tips are slightly bent. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47183-does-anyone-know/?p=258702
  14. Ahsai
    Yes, once you extract the pins (with the wires intact) like John said, you can migrate them to the new connector. Once you unlock the purple clip, the pins can be extracted by the tool. http://www.4130-products.com/step/wiring/index.htm
  15. Ahsai
    I can think of the following for a 10+ yr/100k+ car, not including what you have replaced already. Water pump Guibo disc Spark plugs and coils O2 sensors Alternator Starter Starter cable Headlight switch Ignition switch Suspension components Door lock actuator SAI pump Evap valves Vacuum reservoir Idle pulleys Serpentine belt All are DIYable and most likely can be done within a day or wkend.
  16. Ahsai
    Suppose your car is worth $5k as a roller and $20k after you fixed it. That is break even. So either you shell out $15k to keep it with a rebuild engine or sell the roller and start fresh. Either is painful but I think fixing it only makes sense if you plan to keep it for a long time.
  17. Ahsai
    Btw, this metric crowfoot set from Harborfreight worked for me. http://m.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html
  18. Ahsai
    Btw, did you also try to open the engine lid with the electric switch at the door sill?
  19. Ahsai
    Not sure if yours a smart charger. Some of them need to detect enough voltage before sending out power. Maybe the dead battery is throwing it off. Did you try another key? There should also be an engine lid release cable inside the left rear tail light. I never tried to fish it out but I heard you could. Hard to imagine with the tight gap though. The frunk latch should be powered directly by the alarm unit so I suppose it's possible the alarm unit is not working correctly somehow.
  20. Ahsai
    Easiest is to go from below with a crowfoot and a long wobble 3/8" drive extension (availabe at harbourfreight). Or you can use a u-joint, which will not have as much leverage as a wobble extension though. I don't know the torque spec but there's a crush washer you need to compress. I would not go crazy tightening it though as long as you feel the washer is compressed.
  21. Ahsai
    Try to use jumper cables connected to another car with engine running. Sounds like your donor battery/charger is not powerful enough?
  22. Ahsai
    Yes, I'm sure in your case your diagnosis was correct because your voltages happened to be consistent a the time of the measurements so subtractions did work out. I also explained the same. However, this may not be true in general. If you probe the output of the alternator, you will see that the alternator does change the output when the load changes.
  23. Ahsai
    There is more than one way to skin a cat. :) I would never advocate basing a diagnosis on a single reading; you can repeat the same test about 5 times in a minute and if the values measured are consistent then the test is reliable. The results from the OPs test on the jump terminal, tell him that the earth is OK and that the voltage is either low at the alternator or that the voltage drop is in the cable between the alternator and the jump terminal. I should have been clearer. I didn't mean to say you should rely on a single measurement to make your diagnosis. You can measure multiple times and average like you said as long as you measure what I prescribed. My point was do not do subtractions between two measurements taken at two different times (via a common reference point) to get voltage drop. You can get away with that practice ONLY if the load is constant and the alternator voltage is constant. Neither is true on an idling hot engine. Fans kick in, low setting, high setting, alternator changes its output voltage to compensate for the load. So the voltage you measure at one point in time is only valid at that instant. That's why it's important to measure the voltage drop directly between two points at a single instant. You can repeat the measurements to get more confidence, just no subtractions should be used. Hope this clarifies my comment.
  24. Ahsai
    Your ground strap is fine then. However, that still leaves two suspects, the alternator and the y cable. I know your alternator is new but you'll be surprised how often a new one fails.
  25. Ahsai
    To measure voltage drop across a cable, the best is to probe the two end points in question and read the relative voltage drop directly in a single measurement, as opposed to taking two separate absolute measurements from a third common point and then do the subtraction. The reason is each absolute measurement is affected by the load (current) so if the load changes between the two measurements, the subtraction will create errors. To test the ground strap, all you need to do is to probe the alternator casing and the chassis (e.g., the brass bolt on the airbox) and the measurement should read 0.1v or less.
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