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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Lol. It's odd that that don't show part #11 in the drawing though.
  2. Ahsai
    Perhaps part #11 instead?
  3. Ahsai
    I would check the oil, the oil filter and the oil pan for debris and go from there. Sorry to say but your video sounds gut wrenching. Ballpark numbers...$10-15k for a used or rebuilt engine + $2k labor to remove and replace. All out option will be $25k+ all-in for a Jake Raby Flat 6 engine (kinda like Ruf, M, and AMG) with increased dispalcement. Forget about the dealers, a new engine from Porsche is $40k+(not a typo).
  4. Ahsai
    Just twist anticlockwise to unscrew them one at a time so you don't confuse between them as they are interchangeable. Due to its intermittent nature, it will be quite difficult and time consuming to troubleshoot. Btw, even if the wiring to the sensor is an issue that can't be tracked down, you don't need to replace the whole engine wiring harness. Someone just need to put some new wires and sensor connector directly between the DME and the sensor (remove and replace the relevant two pins on the DME connector) to bypass the questionable existing wires and sensor connector to the sensor.
  5. Ahsai
    Agree with everything John said and sorry to hear your story. Note there were quite a few owners on Rennlist who had gone through similar scenario so you may want to post there too. There have been a few new replacement/rebuild engine options lately discussed there also.
  6. Ahsai
    Absolutely NOT! Without the belt, the water pump is not spinning and coolant will not circulatate. The hot coolant can't flow to the radiator and the overheat will kill the engine. Without the belt, I won't even idle the engine for more than 1 min, let alone driving 6 miles. Since you can hear the rattling, there's a good chance the impeller blades may break off and if that happens, you will need to flush out the broken pieces so they won't block the coolant passage and kill the engine. That's a ton of work. I strongly suggest either repair it where it sits or tow it to a safe place to diy.
  7. Ahsai
    Have the shops checked the big round connectors in the passenger side engine bay? You can buy a can of Deoxit, disconnect the connectors and spray the pins. Some of the pins may be corroded. What's the cam deviation read out? If the DME sets that code, that means the DME can't see the signal from the sensor (barring any faulty DME). It could be intermittent. If it's intermittent, it will be more difficult to troubleshoot becasue the fault may not be there when the tech is checking and that could lead to wrong conclusion. Have you tried resetting the code and see how soon it comes back? The sooner the easier to diagnose. One way is to tap into the DME pins and hook up an oscilloscope to monitor the signal in real-time to check for signal dropout. Even take the car out to a test drive. If it's intermittent, you can wiggle the wires and see if that changes anything.
  8. Ahsai
    I still don't understand how it can corrode so badly as if it was attacked by salt water or something acidic. The lug locates in mid-air right above the engine case. I wonder if there's any corrosive vapor in that area but I can't think of any such source.
  9. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech! I don't have an answer. Just wanted to tell you there's no attachment.
  10. Ahsai
    I could see exactly what you had to go through for that intake manifold bolt. That's exactly why I chose to not tighten down the AOS first so I could tilt it and put a socket on that intake bolt without any struggle. Once the intake is tightened down, I tightened the AOS bolts from the bottom.
  11. Ahsai
    Is it possible to access the crank bolt and try to crank it by hand? Can you remove the spark plugs to check for coolant/oil and crank the engine without the plugs?
  12. Ahsai
    Even if you check "Forums" under "By content type" and "Items I participated in" under "Others" on the left panel? I use Chrome too with no issues.
  13. Ahsai
    If you show us photos of the ride height and the suspension components, we may be able to tell you with more certainty.
  14. Ahsai
    That's why I love porschepartshub.com (Sunset Porsche) :)
  15. Ahsai
    It has a reference to a Porsche coolant p/n (now superseded by another p/n) http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/Pentosin_Antifreeze_Pentofrost%20SF_Oct12.pdf It seems to be legit but I agree it's either more expensive or not much cheaper than the genuine coolant where you can get from porschepartshub.com at a very reasonable price. I'll stay with the genuine fluid just to be safe.
  16. Ahsai
    Based on Loren's info above, sounds like your ignition switch is acting the opposite way. Strange indeed.
  17. Ahsai
    Same behavior when the passenger door is opened?
  18. Ahsai
    No need to remove any of those. Just undo the 3 bolts holding the a/c compressor. You need to remove the engine temp sensor on the right intake manifold to drop an extension with a socket to get to the bolt at the back of the compressor. That bolt cannot be removed but it can slide up enough for you to slide out the compressor.
  19. Ahsai
    Try this trick. It will save you some labor. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/870715-alternator-starter-cable-replacement-simplified.html Basically use hot water to soften the plastic box attached to one end of the cable and remove the box. That will allow the cable to be fished through without moving the a/c compressor and twisting the steering pump reservoir.
  20. Ahsai
    It sounds like it since you have a brand new battery. The other possibility is corroded cables that you can do some voltage drop tests to confirm or rule out. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/voltage-drop-test.html Note the test probe needs to contact the battery posts and not the cable terminals. The readings are taken when you try to crank the engine.
  21. Ahsai
    The kill switch as such (that it still leaves the battery connected) will not be able to address a parasitic drain. Our battery is about 70Ah in capacity. Even with the normal ~50mA drain, it only takes about 30 days to drain half of the capacity. If the drain is at 1A (e.g., a bad alternator diode that drains the battery), that's like 1.5 days to drain half of the battery. Bottom line is still the same, the shop needs to check the battery, the charging system and any battery drain as a complete diagnostic.
  22. Ahsai
    When you said variocam actuators, you mean the actuators for valve lift (as opposed to timing) and you replaced one on each bank? Since the DME uses O2 reading to detect valve lift misbehavior, I would also suspect the misfiring is throwing it off. I like the idea of changing all the coils and spark plugs first and see if that changes anything especially if the coils are original.
  23. Ahsai
    Makes sense.
  24. Ahsai
    Ok buy why not inspect the oil filter directly? Also what are the cam deviations on both banks read by Durametric? Any recent work on the engine that may have disturbed the injector wiring?
  25. Ahsai
    BTW, just curious have you checked for debris in the oil filter and the oil pan? Also have you removed the serpentine belt, try to crank the engine by hand, and check all pulleys to see if any of them is seized?
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