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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Have you played with the wifi setting in Torque pro? It supports both wifi and bluetooth.
  2. Ahsai
    In that case, I highly recommend the android Torque Pro app for a few dollars. A very powerful diagnostic tool.
  3. Ahsai
    For ipad/iphones, get the OBD Fusion app. For Android phones/tablets, get the free Toque app. Both are capable of reading the emmision readiness status. Usually you need to drive the car for both local and highway for a few days before all readiness status are set. Usually a smog station will check for this reafiness status first and if they see some areas are not ready, they will ask you to drive the car more and bring it back later, as opposed to failing you out right.
  4. Ahsai
    For the wifi unit, do you use iphone or Android with it?
  5. Ahsai
    Can your scanner read emission readiness values?
  6. Ahsai
    Your new O2 sensors' heater elements are not in spec. which is 1.8 ohms ~ 2.5 ohms at 20C Seems to me your old O2 sensors are fine (otherwise the DME would have thrown the O2 sensor codes). The P1124 and 1126 mean both banks are too lean (during close to idle engine speed) so you need to check for intake air leak and not enough fuel pressure/flow. Usually the leak is not from the oil filler cap but from a cracked filler tube (at the cordian). When you remove the oil filler cap, did you feel any suction at all? If not, it's likely the filler tube has crack(s). Of course there are other places that could create intake leak e.g., a bunch of vacuum hoses for the SAI, intake resonance flap, and the vacuum reservoir. All well hidden behind the alternator and throttle body. You need a pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure and flow. It's also a good idea to replace the fuel filter if it's due. What are the fuel trims on both banks?
  7. Ahsai
    Yes, I understand. That could be because he left the key in the crank position for too long that power/communication to the OBDII port was cut. Also possible he didn't make a good physical connection at the port so some pins are not electrically connected. If you can connect with your scanner, I can only think of the above reasons that why the shop's scanner failed to communicate with the DME.
  8. Ahsai
    You said "Finally was told the car failed due to OBDII failure". My guess is the DME times out when waiting for the tech to connect. Maybe try another smog station?
  9. Ahsai
    PM sent.
  10. Ahsai
    Also do a throttle calibration by turning the key to the last position before crank with foot off the gas pedal and leave the key there for 60s. You should hear the throttle plate moving. Remove key afterwards and you're done.
  11. Ahsai
    Did this issue start after some engine work? How are the FRAs and RKAT? The WSM mentioned misfires at 1200-1500rpm could be due to variocam timing not fully activated. There are some tests (o2 adaptation) to verify. Maybe you can compare the actual cam angles of both banks around that rpm?
  12. Ahsai
    Can you please share which antiseize you used? I'm just curious.
  13. Ahsai
    Sorry to hear your loss. Check with 9xxmotors, UFO motorsports, MBmotorsportsrepair and RND reman engine.
  14. Ahsai
    John, do you recommend removing the seal on the existing bearing? At least that way spawny can feel he has achieved something :) Spawny, you can sell the IMSB, no? Why $1500?
  15. Ahsai
    It's a reman engine! The good news is the IMSB failure rate seems to be much lower than the MkI's bearings as long as you don't track the car.
  16. Ahsai
    Yours looks like the M97 larger bearing, which can't be extracted? Was the engine ever replaced?
  17. Ahsai
    :thumbup:
  18. Ahsai
    What year is your car?
  19. Ahsai
    What are your Durametric cam deviation readings on both banks? Sounds like the bank 1 intake cam is retarded too much...
  20. Ahsai
    In a 996, "head with tensioner accessed from underside of engine" = bank 1 (left of car) In other words, lock the crank and lock the bank 1 cams. Remove the cam plugs on bank 1 at the left rear of the head (water pump side). Then it's safe to remove the bank 1 cam tensioner and the IMS tensioner. Worn tensioner you will see scoring on the movable rod.
  21. Ahsai
    Welcome and perhaps this thread will help http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/24360-changed-batteries-in-keys/
  22. Ahsai
    Yes a dab of antiseize on each plug. A 4" wobble extension, 1/4" drive mini ratchet with 5mm hex bit will help a lot. You will wish you have very danty hands :)
  23. Ahsai
    Glad to hear you fixed your issue. Agree that a/c bolt is so easy after you removed it once.
  24. Ahsai
    What Hilux listed is the exact same part as Porsche prescribed - 99917022390 sans the Porsche logo. It's correct for your 2002 and I think it's a good idea to change them out due to age.
  25. Ahsai
    When you hear the noise, just use a mechanic's stethoscope to touch the pump and see if you can hear the noise.
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