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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    DK570, it's tight and you have to work around the SAI combo valve and the wires. Maybe undo the starter cables to get more space. The vacuum reservoir is only held down by a single metal screw.
  2. Ahsai
    E-gas means electronic throttle, as opposed to cabled throttle.
  3. Ahsai
    Great point. Thanks for pointing that out. That clears my confusion. Lakeview, in that case you may want to do an e-gas calibration and see if that helps. Just leave the key to accessories position for one minute, then turn key to OFF. You should hear high pitch noise and the throttle plate calibrating itself.
  4. Ahsai
    Ok, I guess what's not clear to me is you mentioned e-gas and I wonder if your car is e-gas. You can remove one of the spark plugs to check for sparks. Normally the DME may or may not power the fuel pump when you turn the key to the accessories position. Even if it turns on the fuel pump, it will last only a few seconds. So if you measure the plug after this window, there will be no power and that's normal. I think it's better just to hot wire the pump and see if it works. If there's spark, you can pretty much eliminate any sensor issues and can focus more on fuel delivery or lack thereof.
  5. Ahsai
    Lakeview, so the car is a 2001 cab c4 (e-gas) and you put a '99 cable throttled donar engine in it and reused the engine wiring harness from the c4 on the donar engine? Does the starter spin at all when you crank? To test the fuel pump, you can just unplug the electrical connector on it and apply 12v to the correct pins (with the correct polarity) and see if it runs. If you can disconnect the fuel line (e.g., from the fuel filter) or tap into the fuel rail, you can even measure pressure and flow.
  6. Ahsai
    Did you transfer the transponder pill to the old key and put the old key in the ignition to crank the car? My take to your questions: 1) I'm not sure but I don't think so. 2) Yes, you should be able to. Usually people just transfer the pill to the old key fob and use the old key. The ignition cylinder has a coil that reads the security credential of the pill. The coil itself is just an electronic reader so there's no need to swap it. The key fob that has the correct pill needs to make contact with the ignition cylinder for the coil to read the pill.
  7. Ahsai
    I'm a bit confused what's the car/engine/DME/egas combo you have now. Can you clarify a bit? Engine in question is a '99 so throttle cabled but the car itself came with egas and egas DME? Did you checked fuses C1 to C4 and E1? Does the tach needle bounce a bit when you crank. The fact that your car cranks means the immobilizer is closing the start lock relay so that should rule out immobilizer issue. Agree that the crank position sensor and DME relay are suspects. Maybe you can check if all the sensors are plugged in.
  8. Ahsai
    Loren wrote about the conditions for triggering the spoiler fan (engine compartment fan) here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/595656-99-c2-fan-in-the-engine-compartment-not-working.html#post7964789
  9. Ahsai
    When engine is off, the power to the radator fans are cut. However, the DME still keeps monitoring the engine compartment temp for some time and if that gets too high or stays high, it will turn on the spoiler fan. If the spoiler fan is not working, the low coolant warning light should blink. If you have Durametric, you can activate the spoiler fan. The engine will stay warm for quite sometime especially if you pull the car inside the garage.
  10. Ahsai
    Click on the "More Reply Options" at the bottom right and then attach your pics.
  11. Ahsai
    A photo will help tremendously in this case. A brown wire usually connects to the ground but w/o a photo, it's dangerous to suggest that :)
  12. Ahsai
    You can try to do the e-gas calibration first. Leave the key in the last position before cranking for 60s with foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF for 10s and it's done.
  13. Ahsai
    A few drops on the threads should be good enough and you should be able to remove the bolt using hand tools in the future per design of 242. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/directions/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm
  14. Ahsai
    :thumbup:
  15. Ahsai
    Btw, if you know someone with the pro version or a Porche scanner, you can try those on your car and see if they can communicate to those modules. That can isolate the problem to the car side or the Durametric side.
  16. Ahsai
    I suggest retest with a resistor first. Maybe it's not shorted to the +12v but if it is, as Loren showed above, there are quite a few systems on that K-line (pin 3) so you will have to eliminate them one by one. Perhaps disconnect the car battery and unplug one module at a time, reconnect battery and retest with a resistor until you see a low voltage. The problem with that approach is you may trip a warning light (e.g., airbag) that you have no way to reset until you've fixed this K-line problem.
  17. Ahsai
    Pin 3 is the second K-line on the car. When the K-line idles, it should have 11v. However, when any module (or the scanner) connected to it wants to send a signal, the module will ground the K-line momentarily to send out one symbol of info. The problem is if the K-line is shorted to +12v, the module cannot ground the line. Just by testing with a voltmeter will not be conclusive because you cannot tell whether pin 3 is shorted to the battery or it's just idling. You need to use a resistor as described here to retest http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html
  18. Ahsai
    Thermostat will be my next guess then if you're sure the gauge is accurate. Nothing is blocking the radiator, right?
  19. Ahsai
    If it heats up only in traffic, it sounds like the coolant fans not running? Will turning a/c on lower the temp?
  20. Ahsai
    Agreed. That would be ideal.
  21. Ahsai
    Even better cad diagrams here. http://www.cheetahonline.com/technical-articles/installing-an-ims-retrofit-upgrade/
  22. Ahsai
    You can see the gap being exaggerated in this diagram. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/757877-direct-oil-injection-13.html#post7885594
  23. Ahsai
    Yes, the seal on the flywheel side. The oil can splash in the small gap between IMS sprocket and the IMSB flange (between the caramel and yellow arrows).
  24. Ahsai
    No, I didn't mean the amp should be hot all the time. I mean fuse D9 is hot all the time and it is connected to the amp. There could be other control signals from the radio like you said that turn on/off the amp.
  25. Ahsai
    The fuse D9 powers the amplifier ONLY and it's always hot (so it's not controlled by the ignition switch). Check out the diagrams here for a 996 and yours should be similar or maybe even identical. In the upper right of the amp in the diagram, you see a "Term 30 +" pin, which gets power from fuse D9. http://www.justanswer.com/porsche/55mmd-porsche-996-tt-996-tt-radio-comes-no-sound.html There are two connectors on the amp. Maybe you can further narrow down the drain by unplugging the connector to the speakers (the bigger one) and see if that changes anything (in case current is leaking into one of the speakers). Then reconnect it and unplug the smaller one (that connects to the radio) and see if that changes anything. Or there's an internal leak inside the amp.
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