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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I think the question now is how to remove the bank 1 cover. Normally you need to turn the engine to TDC overlap cyl #1 position to relieve all the stress on the cams (exerted by the valves) before removing the cam cover since the cams are partially supported by the bearing journals on the cam cover. Check out post #200 in this thread http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/853609-blown-engine-14.html Without doing the above, you cannot insert the cam lock tool so the right half of the cams will not be supported in any way once the cam cover is removed. There will be lots of stress on the cams at different ponits and I wonder if you could damage or even break the cams (the cams are hollow). I hope John or other with more knowledge can chime in on this. I imagine you can fab some tools to rotate the cams to the correct positions first before taking off the cam cover but that's a lot of work.
  2. Ahsai
    Second what John said above. In fact, I'm doing exactly that on a 3.6L now that has a lot more damage than yours. The oil pressure is generated by the main oil pump (below the crankshaft pulley) driven off of the IMS at the opposite end of the IMSB. It has nothing to do with the scavenge pump you removed, which is driven off the exhaust cam and is used to scavenge oil accumulated in the bank 1 head back to the sump. As long as there was no low oil pressure warning prior to the engine failure, I could believe that the engine still had sufficient oil pressure. Once the scavenge sump took out the timing chain on bank 1, the engine should stop pretty quickly but if the clutch is still engaged and the car was still moving, the crank would be driven by the transmission and the bank 1 pistons would be hitting the now stationary valves.
  3. Ahsai
    Contributing members should have access to the TSB on Renntech (I can't see if you are on my smartphone). The TSB is pretty clear.
  4. Ahsai
    And most likely you will have some bent valves on that bank so I think it makes sense to drop the engine so you can remove the cam cover and the head and check the IMSB as well.
  5. Ahsai
    What you removed is one of the scavenge oil pumps. Looks like the pump jammed and that took out the timng chain. Found any metal fragments at the bottom of the engine case or cam cover? You may want to disassemble the pump and check how it looks inside.
  6. Ahsai
    BTW, contributing members can access the climate control document here http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/1663-after-sales-training-climate-control-systems-diagnosis-repairpdf/ Creekman, what you described is used mostly on older cars but our cars (996s) use a variable displacement compressor as documented in the above doc.
  7. Ahsai
    My understanding is it doesn't cycle as it's a variable displacement design so it should stay ON whenever the a/c is turned ON. It varies it's displacement per the cooling demand. One exception is when you're close to redline, the DME will turn it OFF.
  8. Ahsai
    Oh now I remember. The circled part is a straight tube (99923904040) I think, different than the other 4 90 degrees elbows (92857471705).
  9. Ahsai
    BTW, my explanation is like this. If the outside is hotter than the cabin, recirc should make the fan decrease as the a/c will only need to cool the cabin air as opposed to the outside hotter air. The reverse is true if the outside is cooler than the cabin (e.g., car parked under the sun for a while).
  10. Ahsai
    tks for checking. guess I'm going crazy??? If I happen to come across a case where the fan speed increases in recirc, I'll let you know. And yes, you may be chasing wind :)
  11. Ahsai
    Hey, that pic looks familiar :) Now you got me curious, I counted 4 elbows in the pic. Where' the 5th? Good that you finally fixed the annoying CEL and hopefully it stays OFF.
  12. Ahsai
    I just tried mine today ('03. 77F ambient and temp set to 72F) and my fan did decrease its speed in recirc mode. Maybe the only exception is when you get into a warm car and turn on the a/c first, then enter recirc. The fan may then increase speed. I have to confirm that though but I seem to remember that's the behavior.
  13. Ahsai
    That's some progress. I highly suspect DME grounding is an issue as the DME supplies ground to power the start interlock relay. Your car cranks so that relay is working. Have you checked the crank position sensor and it's connection? When you crank, the tach needle should bounce a little like 1/8" or so. If it doesn't move at all, most likely the DME is not getting signal from the crank position sensor.
  14. Ahsai
    BTW, what parts did you end up replacing?
  15. Ahsai
    Happy to hear that!
  16. Ahsai
    I can confirm that the $100 set works fine. I just used it on my 3.6L teardown. On the 3.6L, you just need to lock the crank at TDC #1 before you remove the bank 1 cam cover. There's no need to insert that cam lock tool as the cams are held down by a few bearings that are INSIDE the cam cover. The cams won't fall out if you remove the cam cover, unlike the 3.4L where the cams are actually held down by the cam cover itself hence the need of the locking tool. Aha! This is news to me. Good news. What's the purpose of locking the crankshaft at TDC? Will this still apply to me since I know my timing is off already? Locking the engine at TDC unloads the valve springs, it is the only position where that occurs. That is correct. My previous comment assumed (wrongly) that your engine is more or less in time, in which case the cams are not far off from the TDC positions so locking the cams should not be totally necessary just for removal of the cam cover. Once you remove the cam cover, you should not rotate the engine though as the cams will be off some of the cam journals that are cast on the cam cover.
  17. Ahsai
    ^Good points on fuse and sparks around the fuel pump. A safer way is to remove the electrical connector on the fuel pump and then ohm out the fuel pump pins (fuel pump side) that the green/white and brown cables go into. If it's open, you know for sure the pump is dead. Since you said there's no sound when you jumped it and you didn't mentioned sparks, most likely it's an open circuit.
  18. Ahsai
    I can confirm that the $100 set works fine. I just used it on my 3.6L teardown. On the 3.6L, you just need to lock the crank at TDC #1 before you remove the bank 1 cam cover. There's no need to insert that cam lock tool as the cams are held down by a few bearings that are INSIDE the cam cover. The cams won't fall out if you remove the cam cover, unlike the 3.4L where the cams are actually held down by the cam cover itself hence the need of the locking tool.
  19. Ahsai
    You're welcome and let us know what you find.
  20. Ahsai
    My first guess would be coil and plug on cyl #1 as well because bad fuel should affect other cylinders too like you said. Unfortunately cyl#1 is in the worst location to check. I think at least you should make sure the electrical connector of the coil is fully seated (i.e., should hear a click when connecting it).
  21. Ahsai
    The code shows the cyl#1 misfire counter has exceeded the misfire threshold some time in the past so it tripped the code. The misfire counters on the second screen is the real-time value of those counters. 0 means no misfire at this instant.
  22. Ahsai
    You may want to unplug the fuel pump relay and verify the following: - 12v at pin 30 and pin 86 with key on engine off - continuity between pin 87 on the relay socket and the pin (where the green/white wire goes into) on the fuel pump socket - bench test the fuel pump relay
  23. Ahsai
    Yea, the passenger side is supposed to be OFF even though the bulb socket is there http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28493-right-rear-fog-lamp/
  24. Ahsai
    One of the rear fog lights is supposed to be OFF by design (I forgot which side) so the car behind can tell between brake ligts and fog lights in foggy situation.
  25. Ahsai
    Did you use a vacuum tool to refill? Is it an OE pump?
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