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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    You can see the flaps here. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/42802-interior-vent-debris.html The temperature mix flap is the larger one controlled by part 11 in Joes link.
  2. Ahsai
    Love your videos! Shot in the dark...suspenseful and adventurous :) I could hear your alternator humming. It's definitly draining power. 50~60mA drain is excellent. What is thr green connector around the jump start box?
  3. Ahsai
    +1 on becoming a Renntech contributor! Regarding your drain sorry to say but most likely it's the diodes and not the regulator. If the previous owner fitted a remanufactured alternator (most likely so as a new one is like US$600~1,000), it's not that uncommon for the reman ones to fail out of the box.
  4. Ahsai
    There is a faster way to do it but you need to extra careful. You can hook up the multimeter like you did with your current setup (trip the door latches, hood latches, etc.) Then you can remove the nut on the jump terminal and disconnect the cable there. If the drain disappears, you find your problem. However, be very careful not to short your socket/extension/ratchet/wrench to the chassis/engine metal. 1) Durametric will be useful. It can tell you if there are any error codes in the alarm system. Bad sensors may prevent the alarm from going to sleep. Do you hear a beep or double beep when you arm your car? 2) They pull out with some force but I don't think it will help much as any power that goes them most likely is also fused. BTW, before you did any measurements, did you wait for 1hr or so for the electronic modules to go to sleep first? There will be some normal current drain in the first 1/2 hr or so. Best is to measure at least 1/2 hr after you arm the car.
  5. Ahsai
    Does sound like an air/fuel mixture issue. Do you have a scanner that you can check the coolant temp sensor reading? I think it's a good idea to verify fuel pressure first. Then maybe check if the evap purge valve is leaking (it should have tripped the CEL though)?
  6. Ahsai
    BTW, you can ignore and reconnect that alarm siren. It may be just a red herring. I think mine buzzes too. Also, there are devices that are NOT fused (by that footwell fuse box) so if you still see the drain after pulling all the fuses, aftermarket stuff, and the alternator, it will be significantly harder to locate the drain.
  7. Ahsai
    If you suspect it's the alternator draining current, you can do the following test with extra caution. There's an engine jump start terminal right above the a/c compressor. It's a black plastic box with the "+" sign on it (see the first and second photos here). Open that box and you will see a nut. Disconnect the battery first then remove the nut and disconnect the cable behind the nut. That cable connects to the battery's positive post permanently without any fuse so don't short it to the chassis or any engine metal parts! The metal stud is one end of the cable that connects to the starter/alternator. Now insert your ammeter in series between that stud and the cable you disconnected. Once you make sure none of the metal connections can short to the chassis/engine, reconnect the battery. If you see the same 0.4A, that means your alternator/starter is draining the current and it's most likely the bad diode(s) inside the alternator.
  8. Ahsai
    Agreed with John and I'm also concerned about the ferrous debris on the drain plug in such a short mileage, which means something is actively shedding steel.
  9. Ahsai
    12.08v for a battery is really low. There are a few possibilities. - marginal battery - battery is not charged sufficiently - parasitic drain when car is parked 13.5v with load should still be able to charge the battery. Do you do very short drives so not enough time to recharge the battery? I know you said the battery is only 6 months old, it's still a suspect as it can fail prematurely. Same goes for a new or rebuild alternator. They could also fail out of the box. I suggest checking the battery and parasitic current drain when the car is parked.
  10. Ahsai
    That bearing is a cheaper alternative type bearing, not unlike what Pelican offered as a cheap substitute for the LN hybrid ceramic bearings. In essence, it is nothing more that a new OEM type bearing. Getting the debris and its source out of the engine is key to any path forward. The problem with the grit is not just the IMS bearing, it is every bearing surface in the engine. Full flow filtration, quality oil, shorten oil change cycles, and magnetism would be the best approach short of tearing the engine down. Thanks John. While this bearing is not a ceramic bearing, it does have dual rows unlike the Pelican single row + a spacer. Once there are debris, I think even with the best filtration, the lingering debris can still be picked up by the chains or sucked into the scavenge pumps, etc. so I thought fitting an open bearing sounds quite risky.
  11. Ahsai
    When the warning pop up, did you notice what's the voltage reading? Since you said the warning is intermittent, it will help a lot if you get this tester and try to catch it when it's in action http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1443898650&sr=8-5&keywords=Innova+tester In general, the voltage needs to be 13.5v or higher even with some load. What's the voltage at idle when you turn on the a/c and low beam? It should still be 13.5v or higher.
  12. Ahsai
    Anytime.I think it's a great idea to drop the pan and check yourself first and maybe post some good pics of the debris. Check out Jake Raby's video on oil pan reseal and just make sure you don't use excessive sealant. Unless you open up the engine to clean out all the debris ($$), they may lurk somewhere and attack at a later time. I have no experience of the sealed bearing but it seems to be much more forgiving to debris. It's also a dual row, which offers good load capacity like your stock one.
  13. Ahsai
    Hi John, just wondering if you have any opinion or excpeience with this sealed bearing? http://www.fvd.de/us/en/Porsche-0/-/-/-/item/item_details/VID_45438-VCD_59644405-gid_281-sort_4-display_50-item_FVD10590104/Spare_Parts_-_Clutch_-_Cluch_Kit_FVD10590104_Intermediate_Shaft_IMS_Repair_Kit_%60M96.Dual_Row%60.html If the engine has significant debris, would fitting a sealed bearing a better choice and maybe switch to an open bearing at the next clutch change after no more debris are found?
  14. Ahsai
    The fuse only controls the 200mA and lower settings. You can still use your 10A jack with the dial set to the "10A" position because that 10A jacket is not fused. I really can't see the meter's reading in your video but if your dial position is set to "10A" and the display shows "-0.39", that means -0.39A (or -390mA).
  15. Ahsai
    You're a wise man.
  16. Ahsai
    Your multimeter connection looks correct as it's on the 10A socket with the dial set to "10A". The number displayed should be in amps. So by 38, I assume you meant 0.38? That is 0.38A or 380mA, which is way too much and will drain the battery in a few days. BTW, by connecting to the 200mA socket with the dial set to "mA", the large current (in amps) has blown the 250mA fuse inside the multimeter. You will need to replace that fuse before you can use that setting again to measure current that's < 200mA. That fuse would not affect your ability to use the 10A setting though.
  17. Ahsai
    BTW, to trace external air leak, you use a smoke machine or carb cleaner method (more dangerous). Re bad ignition coil, misfire count will show in Durametric and pending or active misfire codes will be returned by a generic scanner. I don't see any video in your post.
  18. Ahsai
    Like John said, Durametric will be ideal for DIYers. For O2 sensor related diagnostic, I also love the bluetooth OBDII dongle + Android Torque app. No, you don't need to do the low level voltmeter checks yet (unless you really wanted to) if you have a scanner that can read the O2 sensor voltage via the DME. In fact, you want to know what the DME reads without disturbing the wires yet. The signal voltage on ALL O2 sensors should read ~0.44v whenever you turn the key to the last position before cranking. If you don't even get this voltage, something is very wrong with the wires/sensors. Then when idling on a fully warmed up engine, the pre-cat sensor voltage should swing between 0.2~0.7v and the post-cat sensor should be pretty steady at 0.7v. When driving, if you accelerate abruptly, both the precat and postcat will show high voltage (> 0.7) and if you decelerate suddenly, both will show about 0v. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/810606-obd-ii-code-reader-recommendation-2.html#post11299728 Also, you can check MAF reading at idle. Should be ~4g/s. If you use Durametric, it can show cyl misfires in real-time.
  19. Ahsai
    BTW, you may want to check if your oil filler tube is cracked (usually at the creases). Can you hear any air leak in the engine bay?
  20. Ahsai
    0134 - Bank 1 precat sensor (no activity detected) o154 - Bank 2 precat sensor (no activity detected) 0156 - Bank 2 postcat sensor (no activity detected) 2098 Bank 2 O2 sensor aging (too slow) 2096 Bank 1 O2 sensor aging (too slow) 0101 - can't find this for an '03. Are you sure this number is correct? Do you have a generic scanner that can read real-time sensor values? If not, it's better to leave this to a shop to diagnose. I doubt it's any of the O2 sensors as it's unlikely they all go bad at the same time. It's good to check the harnesses/connectors but it;s also unlikely they all go bad at the same time. I suspect you have a gross vacuum leak/bad ignition coil that's causing misfires. All the unburnt oxygen is read by the O2 sensors. One fast way is to use a scanner to try to read the voltage of all the 4 O2 sensors.
  21. Ahsai
    Since the part is not cheap, I would hate to see you replace a good part due to mis-diagnosis. Can you borrow a vacuum pump (from Autozone or O-reilly??) to test it the normal/proper way so you don't have to second guess the diagnosis? Of course you will have to test the vacuum pump itself to make sure it's accurate and don't give you false reading.
  22. Ahsai
    I see. I think that should work as the pressure differential on the valve is the same as if you apply vacuum on the throttle body side.
  23. Ahsai
    Unfortunately to be conclusive, you need a vacuum hand pump to simulate the natural pressure applied to the valve (vacuum from the throttle in this case). Also, you may risk damaging the valve if too much positive pressure is applied as vacuum is at most ~14.5PSI. The other thing is sometimes a leak can occur under vacuum but not under pressure or vice versa.
  24. Ahsai
    While waiting for the Porsche masters, I can try to answer :) 1) yes and you should apply vacuum to the valve on the side that connects to the throttle body 2) yes, when engine is not running, that valve has no power to it and it should hold pressure and remain closed
  25. Ahsai
    My understanding is this setup addresses the following: 1) The metal filter offers better filtration by having smaller pores (can't be detected by naked eyes). Cleaner oil equals less wear. 2) The metal filter does not have a bypass valve or it has a bypass valve but with a much stronger spring than the stock filter canister's by-pass valve. If and when the stock bypass valve is tripped, any debris at the bottom of the canister will also enter the engine.
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