Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    How old is the battery?
  2. Ahsai
    From your video, it doesn't sound like the crank position sensor. If it is the CPS, the engine will keep spinnng without firing. In you case, the engine/starter doesn't even want to spin.
  3. Ahsai
    It's clear the engine is spinng slower than normal. I would check the following: - Battery health and if battery cables are tight - voltage drop test like John mentioned on all cables from the battery, both the positive side and the ground side - check if both coolant fans are operating correctly in low and high speed - if none of the above, it's likely the starter Btw, it's unlikely the parts you replaced have anything to do with the slow spinnng symptoms.
  4. Ahsai
    With that low mileage I would gues $30k before the incident. FL total loss threshold is 80% so most likely they won't total it. I would expect a $15k repair quote easily though. Just tow it to the dealer (or your favorite body shop that specializes in Porsche) and let them work with the adjuster and see. Once the car is repaired, you can further decide what to do with it. I know how you feel now but give it some time, the pain will go away eventually.
  5. Ahsai
    So sorry to see that but glad to hear no one was hurt. I would be more concerned about front end suspension/frame damage. If the left rear wheel hit the curb hard, the rear suspension/frame will be questionable too. I would push for totaling it :(
  6. Ahsai
    Totally agree with John. I drew a coolant flow diagram here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/853609-blown-engine-25.html#post12577259 As you can see the coolant flows from the bottom of the engine. I'm thinking maybe you can connect back all the hoses and install the thermostat as well but leave the water pump out. Then try to force water into the circular hole of the water pump cavity to reverse all the flows in the diagram. However, when the thermostat is installed, it will be shut (room temp) so the reverse flow will not go through the radiator and the flow will focus on the heads so maybe that will work better to flush the debris out of the heads. Another way is like what John said, remove the return hose from the thermostat and push water in to reverse the green flow (thus reversing all the other flows as well). Just a thought.
  7. Ahsai
    Very nice!
  8. Ahsai
    Nice video and pics. Any reason to use a digital scale as opposed to a mechanical one? The two close up crankshaft photos seem to show there's a groove on the crank journal, is that true? My '02 doesn't have that. Are the main bearings aftermarket? I see coating on them.
  9. Ahsai
    Great news and I'm glad it's something that simple! :clapping:
  10. Ahsai
    :thumbup:
  11. Ahsai
    I'm not familiar with the Rennline tuneable mounts so I hope someone else will chime in. Stock mounts are great especially if yours are worn out. I don't like short shifters because they put unnecessary stress on the whole shift linkage/cables when you shift. If you are open to a little longer shift but still shorter and more precise than stock, a stock 997 shifter is great. Yes, just have someone shift while you watch at the transmission end. It sounds like you have some slop somewhere in your shifter system.
  12. Ahsai
    So did you find the VW/Audi equivalent? I think I saw the Bosch fan for ~$350
  13. Ahsai
    What kind of shifter you have? There's nothing special about a 2nd->3rd shift. A few things to check: - Get under the car where the transmission is and make sure the cables are not knocked off from their mounting brackets (very common. Most ppl run zip ties) - Remove the center console and check the condition/free-play of all the linkages including the threaded adjustment connectors - Do a shifter alignment with the stock alignment tool. Put the transmission in neutral, disconnect both cables at the threaded adjustment connectors, put the alignment tool onto the shifter, then reattach the two cables. - Change the transmission fluid with stock fluid if it has > 60k miles on it
  14. Ahsai
    Well done!
  15. Ahsai
    Please let us know if it works well.
  16. Ahsai
    Looks like this AL0815N is for 997.1 therefore it will also fit our 996 :) http://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-al0815n-alternator
  17. Ahsai
    Some relevant threads http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43099-2005-997-c2-engine-trouble/ http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/757105-rough-idle-but-no-faults-present.html#post10492990
  18. Ahsai
    What if you drive your car with the MAF unplugged?
  19. Ahsai
    Ok, a gentleman from the TT forum just sent me the 02 TT wiring diagram. It's actually very similar to the N/A 996. You can tap +12v switched power (add a fuse) from ANY black wire on ANY O2 sensor. The O2 connectors should be below the airbox and also on the right rear (rear of car) of the engine bay. The black wire supplies +12v to the O2 sensor heaters. The DME provides ground to those heaters. The DME monitors the current going through the O2 sensor heaters via the wire AFTER the heater so whatever you draw (<1A BEFORE the heater) would NOT be seen by the DME if you tap on the black wires.
  20. Ahsai
    It has the clutched pulley. That's indeed a nice find! Makes me want to stock up one just in case I need it in the future :)
  21. Ahsai
    I checked more Cayenne wiring diagrams. The "motor control unt" is actually the DME. Motor = engine in this case. So to answer your question, those three wires connect directly to the DME. So basically the DME drives the two fans directly.See post #5 here for DME pinout and note pins A48, A66 and B104. http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/552741-does-anyone-know-the-ecu-connector-pinout-for-2005-cayenne-s.html#post7348316
  22. Ahsai
    Nice find. Does it have a regular pulley or clutched pulley?
  23. Ahsai
    I don't have the turbo wiring diagram. Can you tell us how much current you plan to draw? On my N/A 996, the O2 sensor wires are quite accesible. The black O2 wire carries the switched +12v. Not sure if your turbo is similar.
  24. Ahsai
    Another point I forgot to make. It seems the P0480 code is flagged if the the DME commands the fan to turn on/off but it detects that the fan is not behaving correctly (probably by detecting the actual current drawn).
  25. Ahsai
    Understood your logic since one of them can be at faul: the DME, the 3-wire fan control, or the fan itself. Without knowing exactly how the fan is controlled by what signal, you can't conclude if the fan is bad. I think unless someone measured it before on a known unit or there's documentation, that exact info is probably difficult to find. Besides, who knows how complicated the signal is, it could be a simple voltage level or it could be PWM... My thinking was with Durametric, you can park the car, stop the engine, hook up your car on a good (>10A) battery charger and let the fan run and wait for it to stop (if it ever stops). Then maybe you can connect durametric to command the fan on/off. If the fan complies, it means the fan and the fan control module are good. Of course this is assuming the fan eventual stops and it doesn't turn itself back on once you turn the ignition to connect Durametric.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.