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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I think just keep driving it like normal and see. Worst case is bring it to a shop/dealer for them to force the SAI test to make it ready (if nothing is wrong with it). Another thing to try is scan the car with Durametric to check any pending/stored codes.
  2. Ahsai
    Did the voltage drop test confirm those ground straps were bad when the flickering occured?
  3. Ahsai
    Even a blind squirrel finds an acorn once in a while.................. Glad you got it sorted. You're too modest. Experience shows :)
  4. Ahsai
    John nailed it :) Glad to hear it's a cheap and easy fix.
  5. Ahsai
    What's the voltmeter reading at 1),cold start 2) driving with low beam and a/c ON If the headlight flickers, you definitely have a problem with your battery or charging system.
  6. Ahsai
    Your B2S2 (green) line is more or less flat in the warmed up graph (cold start don't count), no? In general, the less efficient the cat is, the more the post-cast reading will mimic the pre-cat reading. In your warmed up graph, both of your post-cat (red and green) lines stay pretty high at 0.7v most of the time, which is perfect.
  7. Ahsai
    The SAI system looks good in the cold start graph and the cats look good in the warm idle graph. I think you just have to put more miles on it.
  8. Ahsai
    This is the updated part for your SAI pump (99660510401) http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99660510401 Also check with warehouse33.com with Rennlist discount here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/912151-strange-sound-on-cold-startup-2.html#post12910872
  9. Ahsai
    The pump lasts a long time. Mine has 70k and it's still quiet. You can try to relube the bearing (search for SAI pump DIY here and Rennlist) or just replace it for $230 (new Bosch OEM unit).
  10. Ahsai
    Maybe yours is one of those that's hard to set, as mentioned by John in the post you linked above.
  11. Ahsai
    Excellent plots but it looks quite normal to me so I don't understand why the SAI readiness is not set. Perhaps drive it a few more wks and recheck? Re the postcat reading. You can log the same sensors at idle but with a fully warmed engine instead. The post cat reading should hover around 0.7v if the cat is healthy. It will mimic the precat reading if the cat is on its last leg.
  12. Ahsai
    Will need the time scale on the horizontal axis as well. Yes, all sensor should move close to 0v within the first 60-80s.
  13. Ahsai
    The plots look strange. They should all start at 0.44v at the beginning when the engine is off/just started. Make sure you capture the log at the very beginning of cranking. The first 2 minutes is the most critical.
  14. Ahsai
    The way to verify it is just unplug the SAI pump when you hear the noise and see if it goes away. Or use a mechanic's stethoscope to touch the SAI pump housing when you hear the noise.
  15. Ahsai
    If you mean the noise is there for about one minute (not a few seconds) during cold start, that sounds very much like the SAI pump. I can hear the noise there during the whole clip.
  16. Ahsai
    No, I cannot be 100% sure hence my suggestion of the proper tool to give you a definitive answer (as opposed to people guessing on the internet, including me). Checking with the stethoscope is a lot less work than swapping out the cat(s) anyway.
  17. Ahsai
    Hot is ok. You touch the components with the stethoscope's long metal probe. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM
  18. Ahsai
    Sounds like exhaust heat shields or internals of cats/mufflers or exhaust brackets. You need to jack up the car and use a mechanic's stethoscope to probe around to pinpoint the source of the noise, maybe with engine revving.
  19. Ahsai
    I would suspect the following and note it may not be realistic to expect to fix it over the weekend. 1) Bad gas 2) Coils (they are likely overdue anyway if they are original) 3) MAF (can read MAF value from OBDII when driving the car) You may also want to check the LTFT and SHFT values from the OBDII scanner. Would be the best if you have Duramatric to real Porsche-specific codes and pending codes.
  20. Ahsai
    To test the ground strap (the cable on the passenger side of the engine that connects to the chassis), just put your probes on the brass ground bolt (connected to the chassis) on the airbox and any of the metal exhaust components (e.g., tailpipe or engine bracket, which are connected to the engine). This will test the ground strap itself plus all the contact surfaces between the cable and the chassis. Yes the multimeter setting should be at 200mV. Also as mentioned before you should wait till the symptom shows up so you can catch the excessive voltage drop in the act.
  21. Ahsai
    I would check the engine to chassis ground strap also (visual and voltage drop test). You may want to disconnect both battery cables from the battery and use those battery post cleaning tool (or wire brush) to clean the contact surfaces then spray them with Deoxit. 13.6v to 13.8v under load is not bad. Also note the voltage drop test will be conclusive only if you do the tests when the flickering is actually occuring. Also put the multimeter into "mV" range.
  22. Ahsai
    That's good news for sure.
  23. Ahsai
    Your bank 2 cat may be weak. In general on a fully warmed idling engine, the post cat sensor should stay at around 0.7v more or less constant. The pre cat sensors will swing between 0.1 to 0.8 about once a second. You may want to generate another plot for a fully warmed up idling engine. Regardless, this is orthogonal to the SAI issue.
  24. Ahsai
    Also keep in mind the vacuum lines 25, 26, and 27 could be brittle so handle them with care. Also pick the disconnect points wisely so your vacuum tests also include testing those lines. It's not a bad idea to replace those lines while you're there ~$10/meter from the dealer.
  25. Ahsai
    John owns a shop so he sees many cars. I would listen to him. Now onto trouble shooting. If you have a hand vacuum/pressure pump, it's quite doable. There are a few things to check: 1) The SAI pump itself. Remove its air hose and feel for a strong stream of air at cold start when it's activated. The rest are performed with engine off. 2) Unplug #22 from the intake and hook up the vacuum pump to it. Start pumping until you see vacuum. It will take many strokes as the vacuum being stored in the vacuum reservoir #16. Check if the vacuum holds for 20min or so. 3) If vacuum does not hold, you need to unplug individual components and check them one by one using the vacuum pump, #15, 16, and 18. The vacuum reservoir is known to leak and to check it thouroughly, you need to remove it, spray the bottom with soapy water and apply a few PSI to it to check for bubbles. 4) If everything checks out, I would remove #15 and bench test it to make sure the air way is not blocked when vacuum is applied and air is forced into it. 5) You can also use a 9v battery to verify the operation of the changeover valve.
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