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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    More details here http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/849714-how-the-coolant-bleeder-valve-works.html
  2. Ahsai
    That bleeder valve has a diaphragm inside that prevents venting to the atmosphere (to keep the pressure inside like you imagined). All it does is when the coolant is hot, it connects the internal venting of the system so that any trapped air bubbles inside the system could escape to the coolant tank. Basically a self-bleed system. When hot, the stem will come up and when cold it will drop back. Your valve is leaking (likely the diaphragm has cracks). The best bet is to replace the whole tank. Don't bother trying to replace that valve and the screws, which are like one-time use.
  3. Ahsai
    That part is the power steering fluid reservoir.
  4. Ahsai
    Can you try the e-gas recalibration? Turn the key to last position before cranking and wait for 1 min with the foot off the gas pedal. Then turn the key to OFF and wait for 10s and it's done. If that doesn't work, can you check the coolant temp sensor reading at cold start? Also, have you checked any intake air leak?
  5. Ahsai
    Oh also the intake resonance vacuum line and actuator.
  6. Ahsai
    Yes, intake air leak also includes the oil filler as any leak here also creates a path for air to enter the throttle un-metered (via the AOS hose connected to the throttle body) . You should cover all the air connections PASSED the MAF. Then the whole vacuum system: - all vacuum lines - all changeover valves that are connected to the vacuum lines - the vacuum reservoir - all AOS lines and their connections to the AOS, crankcase and throttle body - oil filler tube - brake booster vacuum connection at the intake manifold - the intake plenums and runners To check fuel pressure, you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail (schrader valve).
  7. Ahsai
    If I'm not mistaken, the +4.5 on both bank at 2-3 min idle is in %. i.e., +4.5% on both banks - engine running lean at idle. So either intake air leak or fuel pressure is a bit too low at idle.
  8. Ahsai
    Those numbers look great. Do they look similar after the engine has warmed up? If so, perhaps just drive the car longer and see if the 1128/1130 will develope into a CEL.
  9. Ahsai
    The plots look fine to me. A log during drive would not add much info but Durametric read out of FRA and TRA will give us more clues about the 1128/1130 codes.
  10. Ahsai
    You're welcome Thomas and glad to see you post again :)
  11. Ahsai
    The idea is to remove the belt completely and run the engine briefly (say a couple of min or less). Once the belt is removed, nothing is rotating except the engine so if the noise is still there, that means the source of the noise is the engine. If the noise goes away, that means the noise comes from one of he pulleys or accessories such as alternator, power steering pump, and a/c compressor. With the belt off and engine off, you can hand spin each component to feel for noise and roughness.
  12. Ahsai
    Glad to hear you found and fixed the loose connection. The plastic tube looks like the oil filler tube? If it has vacuum leak, it needs to be replcaed. The circled part is the SAI pump outlet. I'm not sure but per the parts diagram, there should be a clamp. It shouldn't have air leak though unless the pump is ON.
  13. Ahsai
    In that case, I would recommend you disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery post and give all the metal contact and battery post a good cleaning then redo the test. If the v drop still persist, you are looking at replacing part #4 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=902-05
  14. Ahsai
    I would really need to see the O2 plots in time to see if they are working. Just a single voltage value snapshot won't tell us anything. Regarding your other numbers, I saw: - bank 1 timing is out of spec, which is between -7 degree to +7 degree. Suggest check timing of bank 1. Could be due to excessive chain pad wear. - your bank 2 is runnng way lean (FRA ar 1.4), could be due to bank 2 O2 sensors. - your O2 sensor resistance values are all wrong. Suggest replace all O2 sensors with the correct Bosch sensors Yes, you can rotate the butterfly with some force, just be careful not to pinch your fingers.
  15. Ahsai
    What are the long term fuel trims on both banks? If you use Durametric hat are the FRA and TRA values?
  16. Ahsai
    No, the signal should not attenuate that much. I was juat worried about broken/shorted wires. I know you checked before though. The signal is so clean and sharp so theres real no good explanation of the reluctor being damaged. Still want to see the whole pattern of the signal though.
  17. Ahsai
    Looks promising. Let us know the final outcome if you can?
  18. Ahsai
    Can you increase the time divison (zoom out) to show a complete period of both signal? Currently it's showing a partial period. Maybe the problem is at the rest of the signal pattern. Also, can you try back probing the ECU side pins to make sure the DSO measues what the ECU sees on its pins?
  19. Ahsai
    Perhaps try to duplicate freeze frame conditions?
  20. Ahsai
    Wow, that's strange. I was expecting misaligned signal or malformed signal. I assume you tested everything at idle? Is it possible the timing issue will show up at higher rev (or when driving) when the variocam kicks in? Maybe to hook up the scope inside the car and go for a test drive? Just a thought. Otherwise I agree this is very strange since the DSO shows the correct and lined up signal. If the DSO can pick it up, the ECU should also be able to pick it up and also you've checked the wire between the ECU and the two sensors already. To add pics, click on the "More Reply Options" button then on the bottom left there should be an "Attach this file" button. Perhaps because you only have 5 posts so far so that's disabled for you.
  21. Ahsai
    "dso from snap-on" = $$$$$$ :)
  22. Ahsai
    850cc/30s = 102L/hr With such a critical component, do you really want to take the risks of using non OE? My frd has a car whose ngine shut down on a busy highway with other cars zooming by. Near dealth experience. I opened up the fuel tank and found the fuel pump assembly broken dangling inside.
  23. Ahsai
    Also keep in mind another critical spec is the flow rate. Looks like it's 850cc/30s per this post http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43404-fuel-system-nightmare-my-boxster-used-to-run-so-well/?p=232653
  24. Ahsai
    Good detective work. Don't know about those vdo part numbers but it seems like you need more than 3bar http://986forum.com/forums/210826-post7.html
  25. Ahsai
    BTW, I've tried the Android version of the "OBD Fusion" app and it's good https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=OCTech.Mobile.Applications.TouchScan&hl=en For Android, there's "Torque Pro" anyway so I seldom use OBD Fusion.
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