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Ahsai
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Everything posted by Ahsai
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With that scope, you can even see the coil ignition wavwform. Here's a video of how to do it https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PALjk13DDiQ -
This scope looks pretty good and I also saw some youtube on ppl using it. It needs some learnng but it's quite easy to use. http://www.amazon.com/1008C-Automotive-Diagnostic-Oscilloscope-Programmable/dp/B00BSR98KW Here's a video of Tony Callas probing the cam sensors. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k3i9A60KJZ4
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Thanks for the update. I'm not familiar with cayennes but from the code descriptions, both codes seem to point to the bank 1 cam position sensor. Have you checked the connection from the DME to that sensor? To test the cam sensor, you will need an oscilloscope. I have reco for that if you plan to do more trouble shooting.
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I assume you meamt the header bolts? Have you tried impact and Kroil?
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Ok, I see what you're trying to do now. At first I thought you also plan to replace the timing chain paddles. I was also confused when you said you wanted to put the sprocket to where it was. I interpreted that as exactly where it was. What you really meant is let the sprocket fall wherever it will be when crank is lock at TDC cyl #1 and exhaust is locked by the cam tool. No eyeballing. Of course how close you can get will depend on what you use to add tension to the timing chain. All I know is that rotating the crank in the reverse direction is not recommended.
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gcp, John is one of our top contributors with all the knowledge we need to fix our cars. He always helps others and if you look back at your thread, he wrote post after post explaining the variocam trying to help.
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Cam timing is a precision procedure so you cannot just try to reinstall the sproket in the exact same old position. With new pads and/or chains the timing will change so you will definitely need the special tool 9612 to time it properly - the bottom left one in this set http://www.ewktool.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=137
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Electric vacuum sound from engine bay
Ahsai replied to Saibot's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Sounds like the SAI pump running and you have a bad/depleted battery. I suggest you bring the battery to a part store for testing. -
Now I also noticed it looks like the scored area was ground by one of the four fat pins on the caliper that guide the pads. Even if you ran the pads down to bare backingplate, those pins should not touch the rotor. It's almost like the caliper itself is loose and not tightened properly to the wheel carrier. Or the rotor was loose from the carrier. Very strange scoring. You can see the four guiding pins inside the calipers in these photos http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?cPath=299&products_id=6811
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Nice! Let us know if it works well if you can please.
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This one? http://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76462-Universal-Electronic-Injector/dp/B0021V0FRE/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31qh%2B67a6VL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0ZJ1P7MA9JH22N98XB1X
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Um, which matching ignition test tool? I only saw the fuel injector tool and the secondary ignition tester, whch doesn't apply to our COP. Btw, there's a sensitvity adjustment on that COP probe. You can use the good coils to kind of calibrate it and it will be very obvious when you move it over to the bad coil.
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Yeah, quite a strange design. I'm more worried about water intrusion when using a garden hose to wash the undercarriage.
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I use this. Not cheap but super handy and quick for trouble shooting when you need it. http://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76562-Quick-Variable-Sensitivity/dp/B0021UPE58
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Oh the vibration dampers are supposed to stick to the pads. When they are new, they have adhesive stickng to the pads.
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Absolutely! That rotor is DONE. Deep lip at the outer edge and the bad scoring. The sound you hear is the scored rotor rubbing against the outer pad.
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Interesting to know. Thanks!
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They are the same. Vermin storing lunch has got to be a new one to add to the books. This opening, right?
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Mystery solved :) On 996s, there's an opening at the top of the transmission housing for flywheel inspection. Maybe 997s are the same.
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Thermostat Replacement
Ahsai replied to 356to966's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Forgot to answer your question. If you remove the coolant drain plug, about 2.5gal will come out for a stick shift car. Your's a tip so it may be a little more. So I think you would need about 1.5gal of pure undiluted coolant. -
We want the first #6 and the first #7 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05§ion=104-10 Looks like the y-valve (#6) already comes with a new o-ring.
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You need to change out that Y-valve, its o-ring, and the o-ring inside the quick connect AOS vent tube on the right. Then check your crankcase vacuum reading to make sure your AOS is working properly too.
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Please check your PM also.
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You're welcome. There are 5 plugs on the 7.8 DME, labelled A to E (or Roman numbers I to V). You want plug E (or V). You can check poat #5 here http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/256158-ecu-pinout-needed.html#post3326395 Re your cam deviations, before you bring it to the dealer, you may want to change your engine oil and drive the car for a few hundred miles to allow the valve train to clean itslef first.
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Thermostat Replacement
Ahsai replied to 356to966's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I would wait till the warranty is over before this mod (or any orher mods), which likely will void the warranty. AFAIK, cracked cylinder is not a common mode of failure on the 3.6L. I think we see a lot more posts on scored cylinders. Just change the oil every 4-5k/6 months whichever comes first. Easy on it when the engine is cold and never lug the engine. Reman engine failure is quite rare.
