Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    I run 34# front and #40 rear. My understating is the 36# and 44# is for a fully loaded car (full of passengers and luggage). I found 36/44 to be really too harsh even on the stock suspension. I have x74 so 34/40 is a must for me.
  2. Ahsai
    Some folks suggest Pentofrost http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_E.pdf that seems to be the equivalent. It's as expensive so why not get the genuine coolant.
  3. Ahsai
    I recommend a complete drain and flush like this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43467-simple-3-step-complete-coolant-drain/?hl=simple given you don't know what's the current coolant is. Just get 3 gals Porsche coolant from Sunset http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe-porsche/00004330149 and mix it with distilled water 50/50. Then you're set for the next 6yrs or so.
  4. Ahsai
    The code will tell you which one (e.g., which bank).
  5. Ahsai
    Also as John pointed out before, trust those readings only if the engine has warmed up. You may have two issues - bank 2 cam sensor not reading correctly and cam deviation a bit out of spec for bank 1. The former can be a wiring or solenoid issue and the latter most likely is caused by worn out variocam pads (the black plastic bits you see in the oil filter).
  6. Ahsai
    And please read this thread too and make sure you read it to the end. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49340-diy-question/
  7. Ahsai
    Check out the 3.6 to 4.0 rebuild thread by AWDGuy. Also contact John/Charles at LN engineering to discuss your options.
  8. Ahsai
    I could be wrong and maybe John can verify. These are the MkI ones on '99-'01 cars http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/downloadedimages/fab-996-cb.jpg Note their O2 sensor bungs are at different locations than yours. The ones in your photo should be for '02 and newer cars.
  9. Ahsai
    You ran it w/o air filter? I hope at least it had coolant in it. You're a brave man haha I don't think either. Probably John doesn't care about the drama there :)
  10. Ahsai
    Indeed looks like a big job. Hope others who have done it will chime in. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-955-957/268277-04-ctt-timing-chain-replacement-semi-diy.html
  11. Ahsai
    Nice. The alternator and some sensors were not connected yet? Also, it's interesting you got MkII style cats. Are those original?
  12. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech! You can use a dc current clamp meter and clamp it on the alternator cable and see if the drain is from the diodes. http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Handheld-Digital-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B00V9XAT4Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459886251&sr=8-4&keywords=dc+clamp+meter There are quite a few circuits that are not protected by the fuses under the driver's kick panel. If memory serves, ABS, airbag, immobilizer bypass that fuse box.
  13. Ahsai
    Your tea is ready :) Kidding aside, you can use a mechanics stethoscope to poke around (but be careful of poking near the engine rotating parts). It's likely the AOS. www.amazon.com/ABN-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B01BUJZBOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459816999&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mechanics+stethoscope&psc=1 Or a more sophisticate one here http://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-97220-EngineEAR-Diagnostic-Listening/dp/B00396FBRY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1459817163&sr=8-7&keywords=mechanics+stethoscope With this device, you can trace the source of the noise based on its intensity when you move the probe around in the air.
  14. Ahsai
    I like this approach.
  15. Ahsai
    I would at least retest the old AOS with 18PSIG pressure as opposed to vacuum. The are two coolant hoses connected to the AOS. Try to apply pressure on one while blocking the other. Then reverse the two and retest (because I'm not sure which direction the coolant pressure naturally applies). The coolant puddle in the plenum highly suggests the AOS. It would be nice to confirm it was the old AOS.
  16. Ahsai
    Have you cleaned up all the leak area real good after each attempt to correct the problem? On a clean transmission, it should not be difficult to see exactly where the leak is coming from. Just thought if you can id the leak, at least you have some idea what the repair will involve.
  17. Ahsai
    Try evapo rust. You need to use enough to submerge the whole piece in it though. Super effective for removing rust. [Edit] Oh never mind. For some reason i thought you were talking about exhaust tips. The whole muffler will require too much evap rust to be cost effective.
  18. Ahsai
    I don't have the cayenne wiring diagrams but a typical cam sensor is the hall-effect type, which has 3 pins: +5v power, signal (square wave), and ground. I think at least you can check if the bank 1 cam sensor has power with key on engine off. Best is to get the wiring diagram so you can check the connection between the sensor and the DME too.
  19. Ahsai
    7.5 ftlb x 12in/ft = 90 inlb
  20. Ahsai
    For 7-10 ftlb, an inlb torque wrench should be used. The ftlb ones are not accurate and consistent enough for such low torque application. In general one should avoid using the lowest and highest 10% of the range claimed.
  21. Ahsai
    And I hope you're using an inlb torque wrench.
  22. Ahsai
    In this case it's not clear if the cam sensor itself is the problem (based on the codes) hence my suggestion of using Durametric. But I guess it doesn't hurt to try a new cam sensor too.
  23. Ahsai
    Glad to hear you got it sorted and thanks for closing this topic!
  24. Ahsai
    Just compare the waveforms of both banks. They should overlap (you set a different zero offset to separate them vertically on the screen).
  25. Ahsai
    Welcome to Renntech! Sounds like your car has multiple issues. I looked up P0022, which says the relative position of bank 2 camshaft vs crankshaft is out of spec and P0349 is also related to the bank 2 cam. My suggestion is fill the gas tank with a couple of gallons of gas and retry first (since it's easy). Then use Durametric to check cam deviations. Also may need oscilloscope to check the bank 2 cam signal. The battery drain is another issue that can be trouble shoot by measuring the current drain when the car is at rest by a dc current clamp. You will also need a multimeter for basic electrical trouble shooting.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.