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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Since you said the engine does not turn and you've already replaced the starter, I would jump the clutch switch next time it happens. If that doesn't work, I would replace the starter relay. Another possibilty is your ignition switch but it you can hear clicking when you turn the key to the crank that's probably not it. There are systematic ways to trouble shoot this with a multimeter but those two are easy to do anyway.
  2. Ahsai
    True. Safety is definitely a concern with high pressure compressed air.
  3. Ahsai
    My posts crossed with John's. I agree the vacuum test is easy and if that proves the coolant/oil heat exchanger leaking, then no other tests are needed.
  4. Ahsai
    and pressurize the oil side to ~100PSI (natural max oil pressure).
  5. Ahsai
    You will have to rig up something like this
  6. Ahsai
    It may also be a good idea to pressure test it to confirm it's truly leaking after it's removed from the car.
  7. Ahsai
    Yes, the fuel trims should be zero for both short and long term ideally but under operation, the short + long should add up to be less than 10% or so for a healthy engine. Yours add up to 25+%, which is A LOT of fuel added. The reason I asked for Durametric is because it shows fuel trims for idle (RKAT) and under load (FRA) so if you have a vacuum leak, you will see a high positive % for RKAT but not so much correction for FRA because under load, there's not much vacuum in the intake manifold so vacuum leak will not affect the engine much.
  8. Ahsai
    Based on your short term and long term fuel trims, it looks like both banks are equally affected? What scan tool is that and do you have Durametric?
  9. Ahsai
    Yes, I use inspection mirror on that a/c compresaor bolt too. For MkII 996, there's also power steering metal lines blocking the tensioner and that's why I said it is difficult. Anyway, looks like you're making good progress.
  10. Ahsai
    As long as your turn the engine to TDC #1, put the cam lock tool in the bank 1 cams, then all you need to do is to remove those two tensioners you mentioned. Really no need to remove the one under the a/c compressor (very difficult). Yes, also no reason to remove the cam plugs on bank 2 unless you want to check the timing on that bank.
  11. Ahsai
    Sure. Just be very careful not pushing the seal into the crankcase.
  12. Ahsai
    Um, that's interesting and I don't understand why either haha
  13. Ahsai
    The distance parallel to the crank from the top of the crankshaft flywheel flange to the top of the seal (the rectangular indentation imprints on the seal).
  14. Ahsai
    Thanks, I see now. Misunderstanding on my part. I thought you meant using Durametric to enable the cc feature similar to other programmable features in our cars such as auto central lock when car is up to soeme speed. What you meant was toggled the cc on/off on the Durametric screen as if you toggled the button on the end of the cc stalk.
  15. Ahsai
    That makes sense. OP, did you use Duramatric pro? The Pro version is capable of activating the cruise control system, but the Enthusiast cannot.
  16. Ahsai
    Glad to hear that. I wonder if the fix was due to cluster power disconnect (hence reset) as oppposed to Duametric though. AFAIK, Durametric can't do any programming on our cars so it shouldn't affect the cruise control behavior.
  17. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted. Btw, the give away in your photo was the lack of part number on the aftermarket tank :) Sunset is the best and I've been their long time customer.
  18. Ahsai
    You can use Durametric to activate instrument cluster test where all the lights will be turned on during the test sequence.
  19. Ahsai
    Lol but my understanding is the alarm should get out of this deep sleep mode once you put the key into the ignition and this behavior should not repeat unless you again park and arm the car for an extended period of time. Without a working keyfob, you obviously can't arm the car so I can't explain why it keeps doing this.
  20. Ahsai
    You're welcome and let us know what you find. Regarding your locking problem, that's not the normal behavior. I just tried it on my '03 996. If I lock the car with the key on the driver's door, the dash red LED will start blinking (like after you use the keyfob to arm it) but the head light won't blink. When I unlock and open the door, the alarm will not go off and everything is fine and quiet. However, our cars have a battery saving feature where if you arm the car (with the keyfob) and leave the car undisturbed for a few days, the alarm will go to deep sleep and will NOT respond to any keyfob commands after. You have to use the key to unlock the driver's door, at which point the alarm will go off and you have to insert the in the ignition to turn off the siren. But this is not what you experienced though. If after resetting the keyfob still no go, one will have to use Durametric or Porsche scanner to further diagnose it.
  21. Ahsai
    Welcomt to Renntech :welcome: Yes, this is the right way to ask questions or share technical information. Regarding the tail lights, the light switch supplies power to fuse A3 then the power is split to the right front side marker and right rear light. Similarly fuse A4 supplies power to the lights to the left side marker and left rear light. Therefore, the front side marker and the rear light should turn on/off together (on the same side). The first thing to check is whether fuses A3 and A4 get power when the light switch is turned to the "low beam" position using a multimeter. You can also pull the light switch and then turn left or right to turn on the parking/rear lights on either side. Then you will need to check if there's power to the rear light sockets when the light switch is turned on. There's a way to reset the key fob if you search. I don't have the link handy with me. If that doesn't work, it's likely the circuit board of the key fob needs replacing.
  22. Ahsai
    Also log the fuel trims on BOTH banks, both FRA and TRA. Since your code is only for bank 2 at idle, if the fuel trims also show problems on the bank 2 (as opposed to bank 1 is also bad but not bad enough to trip the codes for bank 1 yet), you can focus more on bank 2 specific causes and narrow down the list.
  23. Ahsai
    Yeah, a cracked head is no longer considered catastrophic and all the repair info is already in that long thread. I also don't see why the coolant will infiltrate the intake plenum. You may also want to call/send an email to Len to get his advice.
  24. Ahsai
    I'm running these http://www.carnewal.com/products/P96/p96224/Exchange-Sport-Cats for about a little over $1k.
  25. Ahsai
    Any conern of the Magnaflow? It's a direct fit and I know a 996 owner just installed those with great success. For 200 cell cat, check with Carnewal. You can ship your cats to them for modification.
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