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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Sounds like the immobilizer then. Have you checked fuse E1?
  2. Ahsai
    I think you need Durametric as there could be fault codes that can't be retrieved by other scanners. Also, how do you know your engine is running lean when you mentioned lean misfire? Have you checked fuel pressure and flow rate are up to spec? I'm not familiar with Cayennes but based on stuttering under load (not at idle), that doesn't sound like an intake air leak. Sounds more fuel and timing related.
  3. Ahsai
    Take a word of advice from someone that does this retrofits for a living: Don't try to reinvent the wheel, buy the LN kit and install it. You will be happy that you did. +986 unless you don't care about longevity.
  4. Ahsai
    There's no replacement from Porsche as far as I know. What new bearing do you plan to put on it? A new stud will come from the new bearing kit anyway.
  5. Ahsai
    In that case, you can still check a few easy things. Pin 86 should have +12v with the key in the last positin before crank. Pin 85 is grounded by the DME once it recognizes your key (the transponder pill inside the fob) and the clutch switch is closed. Have you tried jumping your clutch switch? If the engine fires up when you jump the starter relay power pins, that means the DME recognizes your key and your problem is likely the clutch switch then.
  6. Ahsai
    Does the starter relay click when you press in the clutch with the key n the last position before crank? If so, can you remove the relay and use a fat and short cable to jump the power pins of the relay socket (one pin is connected to the ignition switch and the other connected to the starter solenod)? I suspect your solenoid is not getting enough current.
  7. Ahsai
    Excellent!
  8. Ahsai
    I'm curious to see what the solution is and thanks for the update and sharing of info!
  9. Ahsai
    BTW, unrelated to the CPS DTC but it's a good idea to clean the throttle body and idle stabilizer if your engine stalls when idling. You can activate the idle stabilizer with a 9v battery to make it turn so you can clean it more thoroughly.
  10. Ahsai
    Sounds like you have problems with your wires between the DME and the crank position sensor. I just helped another gentleman with the same problem here: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/935933-replaced-aos-now-cps-is-bad-no-start-3.html Post #31 has the diagnostic steps for a 996 so you need to find the right wiring diagrams for your car. The diagnostic principles are the same though.
  11. Ahsai
    Cool. Let us know how it goes.
  12. Ahsai
    https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL0815N-New-Alternator/dp/B000IYAAYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467663147&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+al0815n It's for 997's so it will say not fit a 996 but disregard that. It has a higher amperage capacity, a little longer but it will fit 996's. The best part is it's brand new and relatively cheap so you don't need to take the risks of a reman unit.
  13. Ahsai
    Bosch
  14. Ahsai
    Yes, that's the right one, the one the cable is connected to directly. You can replace the regulator first if you don't mind the labor. If you opt to replace the alternator, get this one AL0815N. It's new and it's on sale on amazon for $250 most of the time (currently it's not).
  15. Ahsai
    If your measurement was taken at the back of the alternator (with some kind of a J shape hook), then yes it sounds like your alternator is the problem. Most likely it's the regulator but it also could be diodes failimg inside the alternator. If your measurement was taken from the engine bay positive jump start terminal right above the a/c compressor, the result is not conclusive.
  16. Ahsai
    Just want to make sure....were these values measured on a fully warmed up engine with the car stationary? Also I think Torque displays the MAF reading in g/s. Did you already convert your reading to kg/hr numbers I showed in my previous post?
  17. Ahsai
    Yes, it appears that the engine is running lean. I suggest focusing on air leak (e.g., the intake rubber boot and the oil filler tube), MAF, and fuel regulator. Verify the MAF reading at idle and at 3k rpm as listed in post #16. Log the four O2 sensor readings when engine (fully warmed up) is idling and the car is stationary for say a few minutes. The precat sensors should swing between 0.3v to 0.7v about every second and the post-cat sensors should more or less stay at 0.7v. Verify fuel pressure is not too high (should be 3.3~3.8 bar). Have you replaced your fuel filter in the transmission tunnel area?
  18. Ahsai
    A few same-day shipping from amazon prime such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466880977&sr=8-3&keywords=Bluetooth+obdii
  19. Ahsai
    The P0102 and P0112 are both due to the unplugged MAF. The MAF has an air temp sensor integrated inside. Actually I checked the diagnostic manual the P1128/1130 codes may be suppressed in the presence of other fault codes so this unlpugged MAF test wont be conclusive. We still need to check the actual MAF/O2 reading. Is your MAF Bosch 0280218009?
  20. Ahsai
    Check fuses C1 to C4 and E1. Try another key. Also try jumping the clutch switch. These are the simplest. Then you will need to check the starter relay and see if the DME is even grounding it to activate it. Are you sure the keys/immobilizer/DME set worked before?
  21. Ahsai
    BTW, don't erase the fault codes yet because it you do, you reset the DME and all the fuel trims back to 0's...loosing all the clues. Just scan for codes first, then read the short-term and long-term fuel trims on both banks, which will then tell us whether the engine is running lean or rich (positive fuel trim means engine is running lean and negative means rich). Then fully warm up the engine and let it idle to do the MAF reading (with the MAF stay plugged in).
  22. Ahsai
    You can drive it for a few drive cycles. The power may be reduced though but it's ok. If the P1128/1130 don't show up again with the MAF unplugged, then it's pointing to the MAF. With the scanner, you can check the MAF reading directly. It should read about 15kg/hr with a fully warmed up engine idling with no electrical load on it such as a/c, headlights, etc. These numbers are for the 3.6L engines. Yours is a 3.4L so yours may be a little bit lower but this will give you a good idea. Idle: 15-20 kg/hr At 3,000 rpm: 50-70 kg/hr
  23. Ahsai
    The engine needs to be running for the oil cap test. For a generic OBDII scanner, you can get either wifi or bluetooh dongle. Wifi is more expensive but will work for both iOS and Android. Bluetooth only works for Android. If iOS, get the "OBS Fusion" app. If Android, get the "Torque Pro" app. All those read sensor values and fuel trims in real-time.
  24. Ahsai
    A few points then: - When you disconnect the MAF, it's normal to get a CEL (which you can clear with any scanner later). Durametric would be a good choice. If not, at least a wireless ODBII dongle. It's very cheap if you use Android devices. - 1128 and 1130 could be either too lean or too rich hence we need a scanner to check the fuel trims to point us in the right direction - Exhaust leak can be one of the reasons but again, we need to see if it's too lean or too rich though - Check your oil filter tube for air leak. Can you remove the oil filler cap with a bit of vacuum suction?
  25. Ahsai
    A few questions: - What year and model is your car? - Is your new MAF genuine Porsche or Bosch? - Do you have Durametric or other OBDII scanner that can read real-time MAF and O2 sensor voltage? - Have you tried reset the codes, unplug the MAF and see if you get those codes? - What are the exact intake the exhaust mods?
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