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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. All those tests you did were good and they show that the problem is the immobilizer. For some reason, it's not happy so the DME is not grounding the starter relay. A few questions: - Have you tried other keys? - Are the transponders inside the key fobs and are they secured inside the fob? - Any CEL? - Checked fuses C1 to C4 and E1? - Is there a fuse on the immobilizer I forgot about it)?
  2. Sounds like the battery was discharged and glad you got it sorted.
  3. Perhaps you can read the sensors again first thing in the morning and see if the evap still measures ~0C? You would expect it to read ambient temp...
  4. I'm not familiar with Cayenne at all but your evap sensor readings are all around -3~+5C, which can't be true if the a/c is not operating. I wonder if the sensor is reading low temp falsely and that prevents the a/c from turning on...because the evap temp is detected as very low (when in reality it's not).
  5. Check fuses C1 to C4 and E1. Did you disconnect ANY electrical connections other than the radiator fans'? Do you have Durametric that can read the error codes?
  6. Um, that would be news to me but please let us know if you find a novel way to deal with these hoses. Could help AOS replacement a lot if true.
  7. Try sunsetporscheparts.com if you want the best deal. Btw, that hose connects to the AOS so it will be quite some work to get to (need to remove the alternator and the left intake manifold).
  8. That's part #13 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10
  9. Glad to know it's something simple.
  10. No problem. Let us know how it goes.
  11. That number sounds like a small leak. Not saying this is your problem but this thread gives you some ideas. I think the easiest would be to smoke test the intake for air leaks. http://myvirtualcarworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/05/porsche-carrera-997-dtc-p2187-p2189.html?m=1
  12. The codes indicate the engine is running lean. It would help if you could monitor the RKAT fuel trim with durametric or the short term fuel trim with a generic obdii scanner that can read sensor values in real-time. Without those, you can check for intake vacuum leak like jl-c said. The engine is always in closed loop fuel control other than the short period at the very beginning of a cold start, regardless of the gear position. The DME watches the a/f ratio like a hawk so it makes sense to trust it and diagnose along that "lean condition" direction - too much air or too little fuel.
  13. Check out post #48 by Jake Raby http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/952397-ln-dual-row-questions-4.html#post13590539
  14. Len rocks! I He's THE M96/97 head specialist in the US!
  15. Since the hose is very close to the bottom of the engine block so it's practically at the same level as the coolant drain plug. I would say expect 2~2.5gal coming out if you don't plug up the opening at the flange. The top part of that hose goes to the TOP of the heater core so it won't have much coming out (other than the coolant that's inside the hose/metal pipe).
  16. Glad to know the pic helped. Did the new sensor fix the problem?
  17. The red line is not available individually so you need the whole system with rails 99611003655 http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=107-05 The hard line that the red line is connected to could be this one but not sure at all 99620126505 http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=201-10
  18. Did the dealer monitor for misfires in real-time (misfire counters for each cylinder) using their scanner when this hesitation is happening? How old are the coils and plugs and are the plugs stock? Did they check for leaky injector? Did they use a smoke machine to check for intake air leak? Did they monitor the gas pedal position values with a scanner and confirm they look ok? I highly doubt the pedal is the problem since the DME monitors that all the time and it should trigger a CEL.
  19. If your car uses a cabled throttle, you may want to clean your throttle body and idle stabilizer valve first before anything else.
  20. I should add that just the engine is warmed up is not sufficient to get rid of the "mayo", especially if you live in a humid place and drive your car mainly on highways. You need the engine to fully warmed up and the engine compartment temp high as well (e.g., stop and go traffic).
  21. Relax. They look normal to me. The "mayo" in the oil filler tube ia condensation that can be "burned off" if you take longer drives and get the engine up to temperature. Drain a cup of coolant out and see if it looks clear. It looks clear in your photo.
  22. Most likely your compressor is not runnng then. Can you see if the clutch engages at all?
  23. When you hooked up the can, was the a/c ON? The compressor needs to be running when you connect the can. Otherwise the static pressure of the a/ c is like ~80 PSI. I agree with Bobby though it's best to get the a/c check out by a shop as there could be many other components that can fail. Have you checked all the relevant fuses?
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