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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Are you sure it's p0126? I saw p0125 and p0128 and no p0126 in the WSM p0131 bank 1 O2 sensor voltage too low p0151 bank 2 O2 sensor voltage too low p0171 bank 1 too lean at idle p0174 bank 2 too lean at idle Sounds like to me issues with the O2 sensors and/or wiring and that tripped the lean code and misfires. This will need further diagnosis with a Porsche scanner and basic electrical troubleshooting. As the first step, you may want to reset all the codes and drive the car longer (assuming the car is still drivable and not struggling) and see what codes come back.
  2. Sunset all the way! http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe-porsche/99710703800
  3. If it's a 996, the vacuum tank is behind the alternator. You need to remove the alternator to get to it. You may also need to remove the left intake manifold.
  4. I doubt it's your crankshaft position sensor (the one in your link). Sounds like bank 1 variocam system and cam issues. It will require quite elaborate troubleshooting. Has the engine been worked on before especially the bank 1 cam/head? Check out these threads: P1340 P1531
  5. I've attached your photos and video here so others could see and comment. Video here IMG_2576.3gp
  6. That's a lot of metal debris and the knocking sounds very serious too :(
  7. Never mind now I saw you had already checked that sole wire between the DME and the alarm.
  8. Alarm fault code 21 is "Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the communication lead between the alarm system control module and the DME control module" - Plug A pin 23 Although it doesn't show up after reset, it sounds very suspicious given the DME doesn't close the start lock relay.
  9. You can upload the pics to wetransfer and post the link here. No, unfortunately you can't take out of even access the rod bearings or any bearings unless you split the engine block. The bearings are all held captive inside the crank cradle (part #14 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=102-00)
  10. It may not be as bad as I thought then. I think as long as your filter is clean, you should be safe. To inspect for bore scoring, you only need to remove the oil pan and put the cylinder in TDC and stick the borescope into the cylinder wall via the crank cradle.
  11. If you find metal flakes in the oil pan, the same debris will be sucked up through the oil pickup tube to the pump then to the oil filter. Just curious did you cut open the filter, lay it flat, and check both sides?
  12. Sounds like the dealer has not diagnosed completely. You really need to diagnose the following to be complete: 1) The battery 2) The charging system and all the cables between the battery and the starter and alternator 3) Any parasitic drain
  13. Welcome to Renntech! "I pulled the oil pan off already and found alot more metallic flakes from wear and tear than usual." Based on this description, I'm sorry to say but the only proper way to correct this is a complete tear down and clean up of the engine. The rest of the other issues will also need be addressed once everything is apart. How does the oil filter look like?
  14. Maybe obvious but have you checked your gas cap o-ring for cracks?
  15. ^What Loren said, Do you know what error code(s) you have?
  16. Second what JFP said. Depends on how your bluetooth thingy is hooked up and it could very well be the culprit, especially if you never had similar problem before.
  17. TB is throttle body. If you have the idle control valve, you should clean that thoroughly too. Search here and it's been mentioned many times for idle problems.
  18. Since yours is e-gas, you may want to try doing the throttle adaptation first. Put the key in the last position before crank and leave it there for 60s with your foot off the gas pedal. Then turn key to OFF position and wait for 10s and you're done. Have you scanned the car for codes with a Porsche scanner such as Durametric?
  19. Thanks for the update. So did you need to source a new crank?
  20. Check the nut that fixes cable #4 to part #11 (firewall frunk side). Part #11 is the power distribution unit under the dash on the passenger side that houses a few large curent fuses. I know one case where that nut was loose (on a Boxster but same design) and that created electrical cut-out issues.
  21. There are many microswitches involved and you desperately need Durametric. My guess is one of the microsiwtches is bad and not detecting the doors are closed so the alarm doesn't try to lock the doors. Regardless, your no crank situation seems to be independent to this central locking issue.
  22. Sounds like you work in a shop so I think the Pro version makes a lot more sense. Otherwise, you can only use it on 3 Porsche. One more comment since the Pro version will be more investment. Even though Durametric will show you the error codes and gives you more clues, it's only a starting point and there's no guarantee it can pinpoint exactly what the problem is. Also, if you want to eliminate the DME and immobilizer as the source of the problem, you can check with ecudoctors.com I believe they can diagnose your units if you send the pair and the keys to them.
  23. Some of those fuses power the DME and the alarm. If E1 is bown, the car won't crank but the CEL should be tripped though. A generic OBDII should be able to connect to the DME, read obdii codes, and query emission readiness, etc. If the scanner is good then it's possible the DME and/or the alarm is the issue because the OBDII scanner talks to the DME via the alarm. Without Durametric or a Porsche scanner, you are pretty much stuck.
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