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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Absolutely. The smart fuse is just more convenient.
  2. Ahsai
    Should be available in autozone, oreilly, etc. Btw, sent you a PM.
  3. Ahsai
    You can use a smart fuse (it will blow and light a small LED on the fuse). You can then start disconnect things from that circuit. With some luck the LED goes out and you know that's the bad circuit.
  4. Ahsai
    Like John said above. That explained the "limp mode" cause the DME thinks the throttle body is no good. So it's either what John said or you have a bad throttle body. There are two pots inside the sensor that move together. With Durametric under actual values, you should be able to see the voltage readings of these two pots (0 to 5v). If memory serves, one value is always half of the other or one is 5v minus the other.
  5. Ahsai
    If you're talking about D6 (30A), it supplies power (via a relay) to the compressor (via the refrigerant pressure safety switch) and the a/c blower under the dash and nothing else.
  6. Ahsai
    Do you have a scanner to scan for codes?
  7. Ahsai
    Then it's likely you still have intake/vacuum leak then.
  8. Ahsai
    Did you reset the DME and do you currently have P0455, P1124, and P1126? P1124 and P1126 are triggered by engine running too lean (intake air leak) or low fuel pressure/flow. If the FRA values (fuel trim under load) are fine, TRA points to air leak.
  9. Ahsai
    Also did you power the IAC with a 9v battery intermittently to make its rotor turn when you cleaned it?
  10. Ahsai
    Have you checked your gas gap's o-ring and see if there are cracks? After you fixed all the vacuum leak that you could find, you may want to reset the DME and drive the car again and see what codes come back and if the TRA values have improved. All the fuel trims will be reset to 0 so you will need to drive your car for a day or so for the DME to readapt and then the fuel trims will be more of less accurate.
  11. Ahsai
    I don't have the wiring diagram for your model but you may want to try this for a 996.
  12. Ahsai
    Very nice. Re the SAI, you may have one of those that won't set for 500+ miles (but eventually it will set). You can try this. Start the engine in the morning and let it idle until the SAI pump has turned off. That should make the SAI readiness set.
  13. Ahsai
    ^Pro tips. Ordered!
  14. Ahsai
    Thanks, John! Means a lot coming from you. I do enjoy virtual/remote wrenching :)
  15. Ahsai
    Props to you. It's not an easy task (done properly) for someone new to 996 and I like the methodical way you diagnosed and repaired it.
  16. Ahsai
    All right! Must also feel good knowing you just saved yourself $1k+ :)
  17. Ahsai
  18. Ahsai
    Can't wait for the result of the variocam advance.
  19. Ahsai
    Could it be anything close to the right front wheel liner? There are multiple pieces there and also some aluminum hoses in that area with clips on them. Maybe remove the wheel liner temporarily and check if the rattle goes away?
  20. Ahsai
    Those nuts on the front struts should be 24ftlb (m8 studs). The ones on the rear are 34ftlb (m10 studs).
  21. Ahsai
    Other than some exhaust leak, it should be ok to drive.
  22. Ahsai
    I would ask your machinist friend to use a 1-inch thick steel/aluminum stock rectangular bar to make you a template with 3 perfectly straight holes so you can bolt the block onto the left two holes in your photo and center the 3rd one on the broken bolt. Then use a left hand drill.
  23. Ahsai
    Just use some fresh engine oil on the o-rings and they should be fine.
  24. Ahsai
    I think you are fine. It takes some time for the sealant to set compleletly. You can feel that on the excess that was squeezed out (normal). Can use a blunt screwdriver or plastic razor to scrap that off when it's dried.
  25. Ahsai
    Good progress and glad to hear you took the time to test your new torque wrench.
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