Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Sorry to say but that sounds like bore scoring to me. You can use an endoscope to inspect the cylinders from the spark plug holes. Check these excellent videos from Jake Raby and learn all you need to know about bore scoring. There are 7 parts.
  2. Ahsai
    So I take that your car started after you replaced fuse E1?
  3. Ahsai
    The evap regen valve ticking will sound quite different (much faster ticking than lifters) hence my suggestion of a sound clip.
  4. Ahsai
    The smart fuse should be at least 20A btw.
  5. Ahsai
    Can you confirm one thing? Check the VOLTAGE on fuses C1 to C4. They should all be 0v because they get power from fuse F5. If true, some consumer(s) may be shorting out the circuit. Should be easier to pinpoint. You can try the following: - Remove fuses C1 to C4 - Get a smart fuse and rig up something to connect to the F5 slot (as a replacement of fuse F5) - If there's a short, the fuse will light up - Now put in C1 to C4 one by one and see if any trip the smart fuse - That should narrow down which circuit to do further tracing
  6. Ahsai
    Do the door lights work? Those are powered through the alarm.
  7. Ahsai
    F5 is under the dash so it will be difficult to get to (I just noticed it now). Check C2 instead because it gets power from F5. If those all have 12v, the immobilizer should have power. BTW, how do you know the immobilizer does not have power?
  8. Ahsai
    The power for the immobilizer should come from fuses B8, E1 and F5 so you may want to check for voltage there as well. The ignition pick up coil is only for reading the transponder inside the keyfob and it should not cut off power to the immobilizer. Check voltage on fuse B8, which is switched power so that should verify your ignition switch.
  9. Ahsai
    Under Engine Module/Activations
  10. Ahsai
    The best is to upload a sound clip here. It's possible you have bore scoring. Regarding P1325, have you trued activate the variocam on each bank using Durametric? Does the actual angle change if you rev the engine to 3.5-4k? It should.
  11. Ahsai
    Did your son also press down the clutch (or you jumped the clutch switch) while he turned the key? If not, the relay won't activate. There are many ground points but those will not be the first things to check. Nothing should be powered from the OBDII port but some people may tap power there to install aftermarket electronics. Could you recheck fuses c1 to c4 and e1?
  12. Ahsai
    Any aftermarket electronics? Any thing that connects to or tap power from the OBDII port? It does sound like the immobilizer. Have you checked if the start lock relay gets ground from the DME when you crank? Have you tried jumping the power pins of the relay to bypass it to see if the starter spins when you crank?
  13. Ahsai
    There should be an existing port on either cylinder head. You can google porsche 996 oil pressure sender to see the pics. This thread should be useful for the sender and gauge. Oil Pressure Sending Unit 986FORUM.COM 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
  14. Ahsai
    Also check fuse e1.
  15. Ahsai
    C1 to C4 are easy to remember for me so I always ask ppl to check those. You are right that one of them is for the fuel pump so it will not cause your symptoms. Next things to check are clutch switch (jump it) and make sure the battery cables are tight. Next place to check is the rear starter relay panel.
  16. Ahsai
    What were the airbag fault codes? There are a few possibilities...None should disable the car like that though.
  17. Ahsai
    PCM is related to the radio http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/63493-durametric-code-9114-pcm.html Have you checked fuses c1-c4 and E1? Have you jumped the clutch switch?
  18. Ahsai
    Compound problems: Bad DME Bank 2 variocam power transistor + Bad Bank 1 timing + bad Bank 1 chain tensioner.
  19. Ahsai
    First congrats! The fact that you passed inspection likely means all your emission readiness flags are set (i.e. misfires, O2 sensor, cats, evap, etc.) More power because now your variocam is activating properly on BOTH banks and the proper timing fixed the misfires. Now you make me curious. I never saw such a feature in Durametric to turn ON the Check Engine Light only. There's an instrument cluster test that can be activated by Durametric to do bulbs and gauges check. Where is this feature under?
  20. Ahsai
    As long as the CEL lights up when you turn the ignition to the last position before crank and it extinguishes after the engine is started, you are fine. Durametric cannot enable or turn on the CEL. It can't disable the normal CEL operation either. I would just put some miles on the car, drive it a week and see if the CEL comes on.
  21. Ahsai
    At this point, I'm truly questioning the cam deviation readings from Durametric on 1999 Boxters. See this thread. However, we do know that your timing is now corrected. Hopefully you don't have any more variocam and misfire codes.
  22. Ahsai
    Don't worry too much for now. Just drive the car a few days, let the DME fully adapt and read the fuel trims again. P1123 and 1125 means both banks are running rich. Could be the MAF. Let's wait and re-measure first.
  23. Ahsai
    Glad to hear some good news! Those numbers look great and are all well within specs. Not sure about the cam deviation jumping between +3 and +4. What I found odd is the cam timing values should have decimal points but yours seem to be always something point zero.
  24. Ahsai
    Then I don't have other thoughts for now.
  25. Ahsai
    Also any chance you've taken the actuator apart (piston, o-ring, spring, etc) and the small parts are not put back correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.