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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    The problem with a solid rebuild motor is it's $15-20k so unless the car has sentimental value to you or you plan to keep it for a long time...
  2. Ahsai
    Sorry to see that. There are a few options but none of them are pleasant :( If you plan to keep the car forever, you can rebuild and upgrade the engine to 3.6L. It makes no sense if you just repair/rebuild it and then sell it. May as well sell it as a roller. You can roll the dice again with a used engine but the risk is high that same thing may happen again.
  3. Ahsai
    An easy case then :)
  4. Ahsai
    Maybe worthwhile to check out this video to make sure we're talking about the same noise before replacing anything. This video shows the starter pinion noise we've been talking about.
  5. Ahsai
    For a MkII 996, when one activates the "Valve lift" in Durametric during idle, that will kill the engine due to too much air (high lift at idle). Both my '02 and '03 do that so that's normal. You may want to log the misfire counters for each cylinder during idle and see if there are indeed misfire events. How old are the coils and plugs? Also log the FRA and TRA of both banks. Your cam deviation shouldn't differ that much albeit two different tests. Were they both taken after engine has fully warmed up? When you rev the engine, do these cam deviations change at all? They should be rock solid. They will differ a bit every time you test them after engine has warmed up but they shouldn't differ by 0.75 degrees crank angle.
  6. Ahsai
    Glad to hear. What was the culprit?
  7. Ahsai
    You may want to try PBblaster and Kroil. WD40 is useless as penetrating oil. Use a quality O2 sensor socket with a long breaker bar.
  8. Ahsai
    When it happens again next time, just remove the 2 connectors from the clutch interlock switch then short the two with a metal paper clip and try to crank again.
  9. Ahsai
    Glad to hear it was a simple fix.
  10. Ahsai
    When it happens again, see if the tach needle bounces for about 1/8" or so when you are cranking. If not, it's likely the crank position sensor.
  11. Ahsai
    Check if the oil cap is tight and if there are any cracks on the oil filler tube. Sounds like vacuum leak.
  12. Ahsai
    I agree the tune is the easiest explanation. I would expect the limp mode should limit the rev lower than 6.2k but only softronic would know. All the other things I mentioned are not fully consistent with the symptom. They're more like the closest things to check that may contribute to the problem.
  13. Ahsai
    BTW, stick shift or automatic? Also maybe worthwhile to check the fuel pressure and flow rate.
  14. Ahsai
    Odd problem indeed. Having an aftermarket tune makes it even more challenging. I assume no codes? A bit silly but have you checked the throttle cable and make sure the butterfly can rotate in its full range? If I were you, I would focus on the throttle body and MAF and make sure the MAF returns the correct voltage/flow rate at the high rpm (and not under reporting it). Can't explain why the symptom goes away after restarting the engine though. How about logging the MAF voltage and measured flow rate at that rpm both before the 30min (but with engine fully warmed up) and when the symptom occurs? Maybe hard to tell effect from cause but at least it's a start. Should also log the air intake temp (measured by the MAF), throttle plate angle, position and coolant temp the same time. It's hard to imagine what prevents the engine from spinning past 6.2k though. Knock sensors acting up? Sorry my reply is not very coherent....just throwing out ideas.
  15. Ahsai
    Have you tried using an OBDII reader to read the engine temp? Also I think you can read the engine temp on the climate control. Did the fans come on when you took the photo?
  16. Ahsai
    Sounds like ignition switch or clutch interlock microswitch.
  17. Ahsai
    Starter pinion hanging briefly?
  18. Ahsai
    Or try your luck on ebay for a used unit that comes off from lower mile cars http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Porsche-A-C-Compressor-996-126-011-52-/172864213730?hash=item283f8292e2:g:OPQAAOSwx6pYpQ3N&vxp=mtr
  19. Ahsai
    ^Looks like the second link is the right one. The amazon one has a different p/n.
  20. Ahsai
    ^This and also check the MAF voltage reading using the Durametric. Should be around 1.1v with key on engine off and 1.3v at idle (engine hot).
  21. Ahsai
    Checked for compression/leak down on cyl #1? Sounds like it's being flooded by fuel but there's spark.
  22. Ahsai
    Any photos? You got gas in the exhaust header side? How is that even possible? Gas is sprayed toward the intake valves which is isolated from the exhaust/header side.
  23. Ahsai
    The cam lock tool should be placed on bank 1 when replacing the IMS tensioner and bank 1 tensioner (same as IMSB r&r procedure). The tool should be placed on bank 2 when replacing the bank 2 tensioner. Note the above cannot happen at the same TDC. You need to rotate the crank 360 between the above two.
  24. Ahsai
    Glad you got the timing sorted.
  25. Ahsai
    Thanks for getting back to me. This simple wiper check can be a short cut to diagnose this issue because the wiper shares the same circuit powered by the ignition switch.
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