Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    You need to do some low level troubleshooting. E.g., check if you get power on the start lock relay. The buzz you hear sounds like the fuel pump priming, which shoild last for a second or two in pos 1. That's normal. Do you have a Durametric?
  2. Ahsai
    Check fuses C1 to C4 and E1. Then jump the clutch start lock microswitch and retry. Also try another key if you have one. Next is checking the power to the start lock relay.
  3. Ahsai
    Did you see figure 5 above? Here's the photo of my hook for your reference. I think you may be over thinking it. You only need the hook to touch the terminal long enough to capture a reading so you just poke around until you get a reading.
  4. Ahsai
    You can see the connection in figure 5 here, where the red arrow points to. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/82-ELEC-Alternator.htm I made the j hook out of some green vinly coated stiiff wire. Just remove a quarter inch of the vinyle at the tip and bend it into a j shaped hook. Connect the other end to one of the test probes of the multimeter. Since the whole hook is coated by an insulator, it won't short out anything. https://www.walmart.com/ip/50-Green-Vinyl-Coated-Clothesline-Wire/54001989?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2177&adid=22222222228063026633&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=166163385593&wl4=pla-274226895538&wl5=9061210&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=54001989&wl13=2177&veh=sem
  5. Ahsai
    For your 5-chain engine, you need this set. You need the tool on the lower left to time the cams. Turn the crank at least 4 to 6 times after timing to verify timing, then you can reseal the cam cover. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Engine-996-997-Boxter-Engine-986-987-Cam-Camshaft-Timing-Tool-Kit/352353067432?epid=10003424989&hash=item5209e121a8:g:dSQAAOSwjRpZRKMR
  6. Ahsai
    Usually you want to time the cams when the cam covers are still off (seal the covers only after timing is verified). In that case, you need those cam bridges to support the cams while you rotate crankshaft to adjust/verify timing.
  7. Ahsai
    Fuse c2 is ignition coils, fuel injectors, O2 sensors, etc. Fuse c4 is fuel pump. You will need to troubleshoot all the electrical components and wiring on that fuse c2 circuit. Did fuse c2 also blow before the fuel pump replacement or it's a new issue?
  8. Ahsai
    Looks like you missed my post #3 ? Glad you got it sorted though...bonus it's such an easy fix.
  9. Ahsai
    No, this one is for the intake manifold.
  10. Ahsai
    The 997.110.319.00 is the correct one.
  11. Ahsai
    1122 refers to sensor 2 inside the t-body so it may be the one acting up. If memory serves, Durametric can display the readings of both sensors and the reading of one sensor is always half of the reading of the other sensor. Perhaps with key ON engine OFF, you can move the pedal for its full range back and forth a few times and see if the sensor 2 reading make sense. Maybe you can catch a glitch that way.
  12. Ahsai
    BTW, if you need a new t-body, you can get a BOSCH one for US$160 or so. Just google bosch 99760511501.
  13. Ahsai
    Your car has e-gas so the throttle position sensors (there are two inside) are integrated into the throttle body. I would reset the DME (reset the CEL), then do a e-gas throttle calibration first - turn key to last position before crank and leave the key there for 60s, then turn the key to OFF position for 10s and you're done. Do not touch the gas pedal during calibration. I suspect though there is something wrong either with the wiring or the throttle body itself. Do you have a Durametric? If you do, you can monitor the reading of the two sensors inside the throttle body. The sensor you showed above is for cabled t-body, not for your car.
  14. Ahsai
    32psi is way too low. Factory recommends 36psi front and 44psi rear when car is fully loaded. With driver alone, I run 34 front and 40 rear.
  15. Ahsai
    No, I meant revert everything back to stock and try to crank. Do not jumper anything. If the car does not even crank, it's likely an immobilizer issue. I've not heard of Durametric rental. There's a thread here where Durametric owners posted that they are willing to help locally.
  16. Ahsai
    What happens if you remove all the jumpers, reinstall the start lock relay and crank? Will the engine crank? Can you try another key? Not much to check before you can scan the car with piwis or Durametric.
  17. Ahsai
    Ok, that means you hard wired the starter to crank then. I agree with John it's something the alarm doesn't like then.
  18. Ahsai
    You mean the microswitch on the clutch pedal?
  19. Ahsai
    Yes, DME has power for sure because it activates the start-lock relay (assume stick shift) to allow power to reach the starter. What I found odd is if the alarm system is trying to prevent the car from being stolen, why does it allow the engine to crank.
  20. Ahsai
    No, the fuel pump has its own relay. Both DME and ignition relays are under the rear seat parcel panel. Since you have power to the MAF and O2, you have power to the injectors and coils. The only reason you don't have sparks is because the DME is not grounding the injectors and coils. This is also consistent with no tach needle bounce while cranking. Are you sure the CPS connection is tight? If not the CPS, it'll be back to the alarm/immobilizer system.
  21. Ahsai
    In the meantime you can check the following with key ON engine OFF to make sure these get power to them. These verify DME relay and ignition relay. MAF pin 2-> +12v Any black wire of any O2 sensor (car harness side with the O2 sensor disconnected) -> +12v
  22. Ahsai
    I don't think so. Basically you need to buy both kits to get what you need for cam timing. The extra tools that you don't need are for 3.4/3.6 engine assembly and 3.4 engine cam timing.
  23. Ahsai
    Forget about what models they say. All you need are the tools in my posts above for your engine.
  24. Ahsai
    For holding the cams, you also need the holders on the upper part of this kit https://www.ebay.com/i/352299488680?chn=ps&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fi%252F352299488680%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D352299488680%26targetid%3D400149259833%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9061210%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1028603671%26adgroupid%3D48124585622%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-400149259833%26abcId%3D1130046%26merchantid%3D6296724%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjwqsHWBRDsARIsALPWMENTxjfxyIYzh02QICY_GUGe_1kcOELI70ByfspqbpRrPc-lo-EYVs0aApVzEALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1498557537524%26rvr_ts%3Dc040c28a1620ab64f3e6dd50ffff35c2
  25. Ahsai
    It's this one. thishttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0ZYKRI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523643470&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ewk+997+tool
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.