Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Can you swap the bulbs left and right and see if the problem follows the bulb? If it does, it's the bulb. If not, it's the ballast. Good luck.
  2. Ahsai
    You can get the workshop manual for '99 996 including the wiring diagram at http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm . It may help you diagnose the electrical problem. Good luck.
  3. Ahsai
    Key on, engine off mine reads 0.5bar (I think it was at 0 bar when my oil pressure sensor was replaced but now after 2 yrs, it's at 0.5bar). The tech said that's residual pressure, which I really doubt. At 5krpm engine fully warmed up, pressure should be around 4~5 bars assuming 0w-40.
  4. Ahsai
    Congrats! Maybe you can share with us a few tips on maintenance, driving habits, etc.?
  5. Ahsai
    Hi Loren, Happy Holidays! Unforatuntely, I'm sure the creaking noise is from the engine/trans, under the car, and not anywhere close to the pedal. Thanks.
  6. Ahsai
    Noise is from engine/transmission for sure. Happens intermittently and usually when car is warmed up and underload when clutch is being disengaged at the take-up point. Lasts only a fraction of a second but quite annoying. Sounds exactly like when you walk on old/loose wooden floor. Could it be the clutch slave cylinder? Thanks in advance! 2003 C2
  7. Ahsai
    +1. That's what happened to my old sender. The new sender reads 0 whenever engine is off. But now 1.5yr later, it's reading 0.5 when engine is off...so it's on it's way out again :angry: Why German can't design better electronics???
  8. Ahsai
    Glad to know your problem has been solved.
  9. Ahsai
    Maybe engine mount?
  10. Ahsai
    Thanks, RFM. Will keep that in mind.
  11. Ahsai
    Thanks, Loren. Yes, I got the same part# as you listed above.
  12. Ahsai
    Wow that would be great. I look forward to it and thanks in advance!
  13. Ahsai
    Does anyone know how much door I need to remove to get to the driver's door window seal (#5 in the diagram)? Do I need to remove the side mirror as well to get to the triangular piece? I've seen the door removal instruction here but I'm wondering if I need to remove more things to get to this freaking $$$ seal :angry: . Thanks in advance.
  14. Ahsai
    Yes, I have this sound from time to time. It's the CD player jamming. I think you can try to feed a CD to the player and see if the sound stops. It happens so infrequenly that it doesn't bother me much yet.
  15. Ahsai
    Use two small screwdrivers (those you use on eye glasses). Place them 180 degree (facing each other) and pry between the filter and the neck of the reservior.
  16. Ahsai
    Yes you can. While you're there, you can check if the switch has come loose too. It is held down by a tiny screw through an elongated hole (for small adjustment of the actual point of trigger when the clutch is pressed) Look for this sucker along your clutch pedal.
  17. Ahsai
    Another vote for the clutch switch. $16 from Sunset Porsche and it take 5 minutes top to DIY. Won't hurt to try it first.
  18. Ahsai
    Any update on this? I'm experiencing similar problems. TIA
  19. Ahsai
    Yes. 100% positive.
  20. Ahsai
    Thanks for the info. I can confirm that the dial is at zero when power is applied and as soon as you crank the engine the needle goes straight up to 5 and stays there. Is the sender in a location (lower part of block) that could be reached by a DIY? I have a mechanic who I bring all my other cars to but he doesn't have any special tools for Porsche's - but is this a no-brainer repair for a normal mechanic or is it wise to take it to a Porsche specialist? If you open the engine hatch and look on the right side, deep into the engine compartment, the sender is nested there. I bet it could be replaced without special tools albeit very tight space. I attached the photo showing the two shiny terminals and the body of the sender, which is actually brass color (it shows up as black in the photo because of lighting). BTW, the gauge should read 0 when the engine is not running and ignition is in position I/II. When my sender went bad, it actually reads > 0.
  21. Ahsai
    This may be more of the issue- I noticed today that when the car is not running, the pedal is absolutely fine. When the car is at idle, the pedal is much, much softer, and almost sinks to the floor when pressed, a very soft feeling. Has anyone else had this brake booster problem?? Tilley Exact symptoms my friend had. Try to spray water between the windshield and front hood (simulating car wash and raining). Then open your hood and remove the black plastic cover that covers the battery compartment. Now look at the brake booster area. Try to see if you see a puddle of water in that area and see if it's possible for water to creep into the booster through the bellow. If you have a puddle build up, your drain hole is clogged and you need to unclog that. There should be one drain hole close to that area.
  22. Ahsai
    Between Min and Max is about 1.33 quart (see attached from an '03 coupe manual. Should be similar). There's also a dot like 1/4" above the "Max". Between that dot and "Max' would be about 0.33 quart (based on my estimation from my car's oil consumption). BTW, anywhere above Max is considered overfilled.
  23. Ahsai
    One possibility is water got into the brake booster. Usually it happens when you wash the car and the drain hole is plugged by dirt. The water got into the booster. The fix is to replace the booster. There's TSB for a new design of the booster bellow (to prevent water from entering). I can't remember the details but it happened to one of my friend's '99. I hope you have a simpler/cheaper problem.
  24. Ahsai
    What do you think? http://www.rangerproducts.com/cart_product...php?prod_id=404
  25. Ahsai
    Yea, I think it's meant for jacking up from the subframe. If it were to span between the left/right factory jacking points, it will need to be MUCH beefier to be strong enough to jack up from the middle of such a long beam.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.