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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    My size 48 Interstate is 700 CCA and I think other brands of the same size are similar if not identical..
  2. Ahsai
    Thanks, alpine. Just hope that Casper could come back here and shine some light on the latest development of his bearing kit. I don't think any of us know specifically and we can only speculate. However we do know that JR has closely guarded his intellectual property and have made great efforts to patent his stuff(and even went after a few people in the process). At this point you would probably have to call the man himself over at Casper to get the low down.
  3. Ahsai
    What litigation are we talking about? You guys mean the bearing extractor??
  4. Ahsai
    Interesting info and thanks for sharing. Can you please elaborate more on what went wrong? It sounds you couldn't get the LN bearing in place? Thanks.
  5. Ahsai
    Any basic diagnostic on spark and fuel during cranking? A temp sensor itself should not prevent the engine from starting.
  6. Ahsai
    Easy with that sharp tip though. Don't want to poke a hole on the hose :)
  7. Ahsai
    Ah, you must have missed the secret weapon on hoses....http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-radiator-hose-pick-96572.html pointed out by JFP before.
  8. Ahsai
    I'm not 100% sure but it looks like it's integrated into the gas pedal itself (see the attached that shows electrical pins/connection). gas-pedal.pdf
  9. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted out.
  10. Ahsai
    Sounds like your shifter/cable side is not aligned correctly. You put the gearbox in neutral, then connect the cables on the gearbox end first, then use the centering tool to lock the shifter, then connect the cables on the shifter end, right?
  11. Ahsai
    Part#15 under "Charge management and fuel supply"? Should be close to the gas pedal. On my 996, it's under the dash above the gas pedal. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/289-cayenne-v8-engine-parts-locations/
  12. Ahsai
    I have the exact same noise you described but only get it once in a while when I try to be more aggressive releasing the clutch at higher rpm from a stop. Will never have it when I drive the car normally and not racing at the stop light. The noise can't be reproduced at will. I heard a few people having the exact same issue. One person changed the clutch and flywheel and that cured the problem. The noise is like what the whales make. I'm sure it's just the clutch/pressure plate vibrating somehow like fpb111 said. Oh I also have that loose engine clanking sound when turning off the engine (sounds like engine is over-running a bit even after turned off) so my flywheel may be marginal. If I press in the clutch when turning the enigne off, no sound at all. So I think that may contribute to the whale noise too.
  13. Ahsai
    Yea, neither the condensors nor the evaporator are common failing items in our cars. Note the evaporator is inside the dash when the condensors are in the front bumper. Can't imagine how the evaporator gets damaged being inside the dash...
  14. Ahsai
    1) That could be your RMS and/or IMS leaking but coudl also be the first stage of IMSB failure! 1 teaspoon/night is quite a bit. Original IMSB? I would suggest having the IMSB and oil filter inspected before driving it further given the risks 2) Under what condition it happens? When you release the clutch and take off from a stop? Is the noise coming from the pedal assembly area or from the clutch?
  15. Ahsai
    Oh yea, what was i thinking. Never mind the timing comment then and sorry for the confusion.
  16. Ahsai
    I would guess coils too although hard to explain why all from bank 1 fail the same time. If anything wrong with bank 1 timing, you should see other cam deviation/ sensor codes too. How are your cam timing readings from Durametric?
  17. Ahsai
    I don't hear too many problems with the hoses, much less than say water tank and water pump. Probably some inspection to check if the hoses are softened will suffice. Besides, there are TONS of hoses. Coolant and vent hoses. Large and small. A lot of them hiding under the underside panels, around the engines, radiators, etc. that are not easy to replace. There are only a few that are exposed and can be readily replaced. My car is almost 10 yrs with 55k and my hoses still appear in great shape.
  18. Ahsai
    I have heard of this problem for 996s. Yours should be similar. Sometimes it horns under braking. It's the contacts inside the steering wheel acting up that needs replacement.
  19. Ahsai
    Looks real to me. Just google "Eisen v. Porsche Cars North America, Inc. Case No. CV11-9405 CAS (FEMx)" Looks like it's only for owners who had actually paid for an IMS repair but not for people with future potential IMS failure. Also, looks like only cars no older than 10yrs old are covered. I only glanced over it so I could be wrong...
  20. Ahsai
    Good job repairing it! Everyone can replace stuff. Repairing stuff is a whole different level :)
  21. Ahsai
    That location (on the driver's side) has the AOS sitting above it so there are coolant lines. The skinnier hoses on the reservoir are usually vent lines (to vent air). Can't think of an easy way to check those hidden hoses other than removing the intake manifold (as if you were replacing the AOS) or using an inspection camera (boroscope).
  22. Ahsai
    So the vibration has been coming from the water pump all along even though it didn' leak or make any noise before (per your 1st post)?
  23. Ahsai
    Good to hear you found the culprit. Curous though how a bad sender can make the needle stay straight up with and without power applied. Any idea?
  24. Ahsai
    Or you can pay the dealer one hr labor ($120?) to diagnose it to get an "absolute" peace of mind. Could also ask them to check if there's anything underlying that kill the cats so you won't have your new cats fail again the same way. However, the cats could have failed naturally due to age and mileage.
  25. Ahsai
    Sounds like a great plan cause you have nothing to lose anyway by trying the techron treatment. Seems your cats are marginal and that's why the CEL is only tripped from time to time due to the two-trip triggering logic. I think at this point, u can even wait till you have solid CEL before changing them out. Btw, driving on the tracks do shorten the cats life but I think that's the price to pay. I think a lot of racers have changed theirs to sport cats (lower cost and lower back pressure).
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