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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. I'm not 100% sure but I think the code is supposed to clear itself (and the CEL) after a few drive cycles or so if no more leaks are detected.
  2. I think it may be easier just to tap into the existing oil galley and install a stand-alone temp sensor there. Saw some posts before in another forum talknig about these existing ports that they tap to supply oil to the IMSB.
  3. It any components that affect the a/c were damaged during the crash, you should be entitled to getting it fixed at any shop of your choosing assuming it's all handled by your insurance. May be try another dealer/shop?
  4. I wanted to install a Duralast H8 battery in my 2001 996, but to do that I would need to bolt the hold-down clamp onto the fourth hole in the battery tray. However, as Tool Pants noted, the clamp fourth hole in the battery tray is not threaded on 996s. I wasn't aware that 1997 Boxsters had a threaded fourth hole. Does anyone know if those battery trays are still made, or do they just make replacement trays with just three holes threaded? Have you considered the Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM direct replacement? http://www.autozone.....9458_351727_0_The spec looks pretty good: 94R/H7 size (12+ in), 800 CCA, 140 min reserved capacity, 51lb, $180 Comparable to Optima at a lower cost. At 12+ inch, it should fit w/o a problem.
  5. I never figure out how those aftermarket dongles work in practice since each interior light is 6 ~ 10W each. The frunk one will be ON for sure since the hood is up when replacing the battery. Now if any other interior lights are ON (e.g., if a door is open), those will easily "short out" the 9v battery?
  6. Thanks, Logray. Yes, I've done what you did but less elegantly as your setup :) Mine is about 6in H2O so it's normal. My car always burns 1 quart / 1400 miles, even when new. Now it has about 54k miles. I just think that oil gets sucked into the intake from AOS, as opposed to seeping through the oil rings....just a theory.
  7. I'm in the same situation as the OP and I always wonder if the AOS can become ineffective (or less effective) but yet it does NOT create abnormal vacuum.
  8. Lol, I think you'd rather it be your hand. Btw, I counted wrong...should be about 3/ second so really slower than the crank pulley.
  9. ~12 times/second so close to crank speed at idle. Sounds like a very dull noise. Maybe it's just your hand shaking but the belt looks like it's wobbling slightly? Have you tried removing the belt and hand spinning all the pulleys and accessories yet? You could even turn on the engine to check for noise w/o the belt for a minute or two should be fine.
  10. How old is the battery? Sounds like a weak battery to me if your voltage reading on the instrument panel reads 13.5-14v whenever the engine is running. 12.5v reading although sounds fine that alone can't guarantee enough current. You can measure the + jump start terminal in the engine compartment for alternator output voltage more closely since that's closer to the alternator. Oh yea, you can take the battery to autozone or equivalent to test its health. Also make sure battery cables have tight connection to the batter and check the ground strap from engine (right rer wheel well) to chasis to make sure it's tight and there's no corrosion.
  11. Also, whether it works depends on the charger too. Chargers are so smart these days not sure they will output any (or the correct) voltage if it detects the battery is not there...
  12. Yes, Plx works on iOS but ONLY if you get the wifi version, which is different than your link (the BT version). The wifi version will NOT work on Android phones I believe.
  13. Highly over-priced for a BT obdii scanner. You can get the same for $15 one above + the Torque app. I think for most common problems like misfire, evap codes, o2 sensor/cat diagnostic, etc. the BT unit will be enough. However, for airbag reset or more in-depth diagnosis or cam deviation, etc you will need Durametric.
  14. http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx http://www.amazon.com/Smallest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B00B05QIPU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1365701530&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+obdii+scanner
  15. I have both Durametric and Bluetooth (BT) on Android ($20). Depends on the usage. The BT will read and clear obdii codes and even read sensor vales in real-time like O2 sensors and fuel trims. It's very convenient to use, good for doing quick checking. It's also quite powerful as a diagnostic tool if you know what to read. However, if you need the ability to clear Airbag lights or read Porsche specific codes or read cam deviation, etc you will need Durametric.
  16. $320??? :eek: 680 CCA is not high though. A regular size 48 has 700 CCA.
  17. Someone said they are manufactured by Johnson controls. If true, may be it's using the PowerFrame tech http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/about/our_company/featured_stories/agm-battery-technology.html http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/about/our_company/featured_stories/powerframe.html
  18. Thanks for the info, JFP. Plug-and-play is surely a big plus for me.
  19. Has anyone tried the Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM direct replacement? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9458_351727_0_The spec looks pretty good: 94R/H7 size (12+ in), 800 CCA, 140 min reserved capacity, 51lb, $180 Comparable to Optima at a lower cost.
  20. Wow, they did a good job diagnosting the problem. Hope everything goes well from here. You can use the Durametric to reset the DME, which will reset the air temp code.
  21. From the drawing on this link http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/555781-porsche-996-reliability-lets-get-better-info-2.html , about half of the bearing is riding on this center stud (for a single row bearing). I think Casper argues that since there's no axial load on the bearing, the sole purpose of the stud is to sit the bearing onto the IMS flange. My thinking is in case the bearing starts to wear and there's some axial load exterted on the stud, a stronger stud will hold the compromised bearing a little longer hence higher chance of saving the engine. However, you may also argue that the CH bearings are so bullet proof that they will not be compromised in the first place hence a stronger stud is not needed...
  22. There's already a magnet inside our transmission (if you stick your pinky in the drain hole, it's toward the rear of the car. You should also feel the metal sludge on the magnet). So I don't think a magnetic plug is necessary.
  23. I think the intake temp sensor is integrated in the MAF? Seems you have to trace the root of the P0112 complain since that's very well related to the no-start condition. Did they try unplugging both MAFs to start the car? The MAFs are genunie Porsche parts, right? It's a real head scratcher!
  24. So have they actually verified the injectors are indeed firing ? They have already eliminated quite a bit. Have they checked the air intake for blockage (highly unlikely).
  25. That's likely due to the fuel-trim reset. Most likely it will revert back to rough idle if you leave it idling long enough to re-learn the fuel trim.
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