Ahsai

Not saying I can remember from Saturday, but it there isn't a lot of space to give it a really "good whack", at least from what I remember. Is there a specific angle or something? Or did you remove more than just the air box? Yea, I found the same and felt much more comfortable using a 1' aluminum rod to bring the hammering point outside the rear bumper.

You're welcome, Bluesteel. I can't think of other scenarios yet. If you do get power at pin 3 when you turn the key to crank, you can just bridge pin 3 and pin 5 to bypass the relay. Based on what you have tested I don't expect this to happen though. I agree that it makes sense for the immobilizer to disable fuel injection and ignition all together, the last line of defense. Anyone can hotwire the starter on almost any car...

Try some PB blaster? How did you hammer the bolt? I use a 7/8" x 1' solid aluminum round rod. A few good whack using a 2.5lb dead blow hammer. I sprayed the bushing with PB blaster the day before.

I thought about that, my remote has never worked since I've owned it. I don't have a spare key unfortunately, both of these are on my short list to do. I'm assuming that since I can easily bypass the relay and start the car in 10 seconds, that the immobilizer is not on, otherwise it would kind of be a joke. I am going to buy a Durametric ASAP, I know it would/will help immensely. I really thought it might be the immobilizer because it was narrowing down to not many other options. However, if I can jump the car from the relay terminal, and drive the car without any issue, I'm wondering if the immobilizer just immobilizes the ignition switch, and not the starter which would be a total joke. I appreciate the feedback, these responses are what I need to figure this out. Thank you. According to Bentley manual, the immobilizer disables the starter, fuel injection, and ignition if the key transponder is not recognized. Since your car starts when you bridged the start lock relay, I think your immobilizer is fine. Otherwise it will be a joke like you said. I have the wiring diagram in front of me now. When you turn the key to crank the engine, the ignition switch supplies battery +ve power to pin 3 (term 30 of the relay), then the relay (should already be activated at this point) sends the power to pin 5 (term 87 of relay) which is connected directly to the starter solenoid. Now the coil of the relay: +ve power appears at pin 7 (term 86 of relay) then the DME grounds pin 2 (term 85 of relay) ***IF*** everything checks out i.e., clutch switch closed and immobilizer cleared So I think you must have bridged pin 7 to pin 5 before. If you turn the key to crank, you should see power at pin 3. If not, your ignition switch is not working or there's an open circuit between the switch and the relay.

The cover is correct and you don't need the gasket (metal). I made that mistake and ordered the gasket before I take thing apart, only to find out the cover itself already has a built-in rubber gasket. My car does not use that metal gasket. Not sure why it's there in the part diagram. Maybe it's applicable for other models. Mine is a '03 C2 coupe manual transmission.

That's a cover for a coolant passage. I had the same leak before. It's just a metal plate with a built-in rubber gasket on it. I replaced the whole plate and that fixed the leak. About 2gal of coolant will drain when you remove that plate. Similar to opening the coolant drain bolt.

Since you can start the car by jumping the start lock relay (I assume you jumped pin 3 and pin 5 then turn the key to crank), the ignition switch should be good. Then it should be one of the following? - bad relay - DME to relay open circuit - DME detects that the clutch switch is not closed so it doesn't activate the relay Next I think you should check pins 2 and 7 of the relay to see if you get power.

Check your manual for "Seat Memory" (p34 on my '03 manual). You have to put the car in reverse gear when programming the seat position to a memory slot.

There is no EGR valve on our car. Did you mean the purge valve #30 in this diagram? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=107-10

That was easy enough :) Glad you get it sorted out.

Hi Frank, There are two clutch switches. See post #10 here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/454057-anyone-else-mod-their-clutch-delay-switch.html I was referring to the gray clutch switch that clicks when the clutch pedal hits the floor. The sole purpose of that switch is to prevent the car from cranking unless the clutch pedal is fully depessed. I think only USA and Canada cars have it. The info you posted is about the other switch (black/orange) that's also activated by the clutch pedal (actived as soon as the pedal is pushed). It controls cruise control and timing like you posted. That switch should have nothing to do with cranking. Thanks

BTW, I think you have a clutch switch only if it's a USA/Canadian car. Basically when you crank, power goes from ignition switch directly to pin 3 of Start Lock Relay, then from pin 5 to the starter solenoid (when the relay is energized). The Start Lock Relay (pins 2&7) is powered by the DME, which monitors the clutch switch if equipped (clutch switch contacts closed when fully depressed).

Checked the clutch switch and the ignition switch?

I could be wrong but my impression is the start lock relay is at the left side of the rear trunk.

If it's a stick shift, have you checked the clutch switch? Also, how about the ignition switch?

Did you also log the gas pedal position sensor? If so, does it also flat spot? The stall I think is normal. Same on my engine.

With rough idle, hard start, and no external leak located, is it possible the purge valve (beside the throttle body) is leaking?

Thanks JFP. Makes sense for single use hoses.

It's interesting that it doesn't even need a hose clamp with that much of pressure.

Same behavior with or w/o the A/C ON?

Any free play on the CV joints?

All right! What have you checked so far at the rear?

oops, I meant to say drop links from the sway bar. Not sure why I typed tie rod LOL

There are two rubber grommets installed at the feet of the air box. Are those missing? Maybe the snokel tube is loosely attached?Rear drop links and sway bar bushing are usual suspects on rear suspension.

From my memory, you need to remove the coin holder (just slide up), then the rubber mat and the plastic base plate, all inside the armrest storge.