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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Oh btw, have you tried wiggling the wire/connector of the MAF when the engine is idling rough and see if it improves? This is to test if the MAF connectors/harness has loose contacts.
  2. Ahsai
    Hi J, This one is diffcult without more data hence I asked for more sensor readings in Post #30. P1095 and 29kg/hr points to the MAF - however, if MAF is truly over-reading, the STFT should have been way negative instead +25% STFT suggests air leak after MAFand it contradicts the above - you did clean the throttle body so you must have removed the air box and the fat rubber intake connected to the throttle body I guess if you're sure you don't have any air leak after the MAF, a new MAF is the logical thing to try. I agree disconnecting the battery will be the safest before installing the MAF. You just need to wait/drive longer for things to readapt before you can conclude whether it does fix the issues. Good luck and do let us know.
  3. Ahsai
    Thanks, JFP. Hope J has more to go on now.
  4. Ahsai
    I hope JFP will chime in soon. Can you check the following when the engine is idling rough and fully warmed up and no a/c load? These are the nominal values for 996s but yours shouldn't be drastically different, especially if yours is also a 3.6L and not 3.8L If the MAF reading was truly 28kg/hr under the same condition, I think the MAF will be the suspect. Also have you removed the airbox and verified there's no obstruction in the air passage that may throw off the MAF reading? Idle speed 680 rpm +/-20 Mass air flow 17 kg/h +/-2.5 Hot film mass air flow meter 1.3 V +/-0.2 Range 2, cylinder 1 - 3 (FRA) 1.02 +/-0.04 Range 2, cylinder 4 - 6 (FRA 2) 1.03 +/-0.05 Range 1, cylinder 1 - 3 (TRA) 0.00 +/-0.1 Range 1, cylinder 4 - 6 (TRA 2) 0.00 +/-0.1 Missfire counts on each cylinder Also another thread with the same code http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40523-error-code-p1095/
  5. Ahsai
    J, a slight vacuum at the oil filler tube is normal. The engine should also shudder a little bit and the idle rasied to compensate for the air leak with the cap removed. Was the 28kg/hr measured when the engine is cold and fast idling? If the MAF is over-reading the air, the DME should remove fuel (negative fuel trim) though, which is not consistent with your +25 STFT. The 15-17kg/hr number is when the engine is idling AFTER its fully warmed up. Sorry I should have specified that. Sounds like a bad MAF or air leak after the MAF to me.
  6. Ahsai
    Latest UOA here. I was anxiously waiting. Both copper and iron have improved. Oil had 4212 miles and 7 months on it (previous two tests were ~5k/1yr between tests). The only thing changed sinc last report were new coolant and the low temp thermostat. So seems like shorter oil change interval and lower miles will keep it happy. Maybe the low temp thermostat helps a bit too 2013-10-04 03 CARRERA-092113-edited.pdf
  7. Ahsai
    What is the MAF reading at idle? I think it should be 15-17kg/hr (at least for the 996s). Looks like it's under-reading the real flow so the DME has to add so much fuel to correct it. Also, what intake air temp it reads? Do you have any air leak e.g., cracked oil filler tube.
  8. Ahsai
    Try Sunset Porsche for coolant. I think it's ~$30 + shipping per gallon.
  9. Ahsai
    I would wait for the Durametric to arrive first. A lot more info it will offer. BTW, are you sure the orientaion of the MAF is correct as in Fig 2 here? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor/27-FUEL-Mass_Air_Flow_Sensor.htm
  10. Ahsai
    You can use the same scanner thats used to read the code to clear it. I think I've read idle adaptation procedure before for 997 but not sure. I suppose your MAF can only go in one way to the air intake and cant be flipped?
  11. Ahsai
    Have you tried resetting it and see if it comes back? Like Mijo said, the code may clear itself later if no more fault is detected. I doubt you damaged anything unless you were really rough handling it, which I can't imagine.
  12. Ahsai
    The fastest way is to read the error code(s) and go from there. You can always retrace what you unplugged and reseat them once more.
  13. Ahsai
    If your scanner can read real-time sensor values, it's worthwhile to check battery voltage, MAF, intake air temp, coolant temp, all O2 sensors, fuel trims, when you experience hard start, rough idle, etc.
  14. Ahsai
    That's a very nice set. I bought a similar set from Gearwrench but with some small sockets. I like the tamper proof torx of yours though.
  15. Ahsai
    It's been awhile so I can't remember but it's very possible I might have used something like this from Sears http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-41469-Reversible-Ratchet-Screwdriver/dp/B007KHEMPA/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1379775130&sr=8-21&keywords=mini+ratchet+screwdriver
  16. Ahsai
    Note you could only see the real voltage of the battery with the doors closed and armed. The reason is once you open the door, lots of electronics and light bulbs will come online which will lower the voltage quite a bit hence my suggestion of the tester reading through the windows before you unarm the car. Also, after you turn off the car, the computers are still running for a while (tens of minutes or more) until you arm the car, at which point only the alarm will be drawing very little current (tens of mA at most).
  17. Ahsai
    Btw, this tester is great. You can leave it plugged in the cigarette lighter. At the end of your drive, just lock your car and you can see the volt reading through the window. Next morning, you can check again before unlocking your doors. If you see a low reading in the morning, you are pretty sure the battery is draining. In this way, you can see the actual readings without the extra load of the electronics when you open the door, before arming the car, etc. Of course it monitors the alternator output when the engine is running. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  18. Ahsai
    Definitely not normal. Sounds like a parasitic draw since you drive so much and said you get 14v when the car is running, which is plenty to charge the batteries.
  19. Ahsai
    How long did you let the car running? If after say an hr of driving your battery is still at 11.4v, I think you need a new battery. Your setup might work but still it's only good if you have a healthy battery to begin with.
  20. Ahsai
    If the goal is just to start the engine, those portable boosters should work as long as you get a BIG one e.g., this one http://www.cloreautomotive.com/sku.php?id=262 Not sure you could get it in HK. Once the engine is running, the alternator should be able to charge the battery if it's not completely dead. If you only connect the booster to the car (via the jump start terminal) w/o starting the engine, the booster will charge your battery only sligtly, and most likely not enough to make your battery start the car on it's own because to fully charge a battery, you need 13.5-14.5v, which the booster pac cannot supply.
  21. Ahsai
    +1 on Andraya. However, I still wish Sunset has the online option where I can check and order parts online 7/24.
  22. Ahsai
    Well done!
  23. Ahsai
    Well done!
  24. Ahsai
    I hope for every Porsche owners sake that this is not the case. I am getting a Durametric soon, was kind of torn between hoping to find a used pro version on ebay vs buying a new enthusiast from durametric. Thanks for your input. Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I think that bypassing the Start-lock relay will stop the DME immobiliser release terminal from inhibiting the starter motor. (I think that is what RFM was suggesting). Therefore, I think it sounds like a bad relay, or the DME is not giving the startlock relay a signal. A diagnostic check should show any faults in the DME Oh right, he still needs to check pins 2&7 for power to the relay coil like I suggesed in post #2. For some reason I thought he has already done that. I think we are zooming in...
  25. Ahsai
    I never figured out how to whack that bolt good without the risks of hitting the bumper. I guess I need to practice my hammering skills more :)
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