Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,804

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    Yup, very typical corrosion. Hard to tell from your photo but that hidden bolt is almost a vertical drop from where the engine temp sensor is. You have to do it by feel. Should not give you much trouble though. You can use a syringe or alike to suck out as much power steering fluid as you can. I did and no fluid came out when I loosen (but not remove) that collar circled in red. The reservoir only needs to tilt a bit anticlockwise for the ac compressor to clear it.
  2. Ahsai
    Mark, sounds like you are making pretty good progress. Yes, the jump post "head" is too big that I had to remove the ac compressor to create clearance. No, pulling from the jump post side would not work, at least not for me. It will be much clearer once you got the new cable in your hand. I do hope that you find some shortcut though. Keep us posted.
  3. Ahsai
    Hi Mark,Glad to hear the wire trick works for you. Yours should be #21 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=902-05 The other diagram you saw was probably for the Boxsters. Send your VIN to Sunset Porsche parts and they will send you the right cable. Regarding replacement, I can't say for sure since mine is an '03 but I would imagine the design should be similar. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
  4. Ahsai
    ^+1 the 997 plastic bushings are tight and have no free play. Once you check the original bushing (also plastic), you will see that they have lots of gaps and free play.
  5. Ahsai
    Yes, it's an easy DIY http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45135.pdf Just be careful not to scratch the center console when you remove it.
  6. Ahsai
    Yes, it's the stock OE 997 shifter, which is a plug-and-play. It comes assembled in it's own shifter tower and an alignment tool to align the cables. You swap out the whole shifter and tower assembly so it's completely reversible. I think it's less than $300 but don't quite remember. The B&M requires you to destroy the stock plastic bushings on the shifter tower so the only way to reverse it is to get the whole shifter assembly. However, I'm sure you can sell the whole installed B&M assembly to someone else.
  7. Ahsai
    I had the 996 short shifter before (same as the B&M you refer to) and the throw was too short and too notchy for my taste. It requires significant more force to shift. If shortest throw is a must, you should go with the B&M. However, the 997 is still noticeably shorter than stock but significantly easier and more accurate to shift. At the end it's a personal choice. Kinda like asking what firmness of mattress one likes :)
  8. Ahsai
    +1 . I have the 997 shifter and love it a lot. The throw reduction is not as much, about 15-20% but absolutely no slop. The install is also very easy.
  9. Ahsai
    Did you ever test the fuel flow rate for the insufficient fuel flow under load? The spec calls for 850mL/30 seconds (in the same pdf I mentioned before). You said you replaced the fuel filter and the car was fine for 5 months though. I'm curious to see what they find.
  10. Ahsai
    Thanks for the update and glad you got it sorted out finally. Still hard to imagine how the position sensor is damaged though since it's not exposed and I can't imagine you being rough handling the butterfly...Anyway, thanks for the warning. I've cleaned mine like you did before with no issues.
  11. Ahsai
    Congrats and glad to hear it's something so simple. Would not have guessed it by any previous codes.
  12. Ahsai
    Agree with JFP and I'll wait till you personally tested the car before making conclusions :)
  13. Ahsai
    Also, you can check for the right BOSCH sensor on this site http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder/Pages/VehiclePartFinder.aspx
  14. Ahsai
    Do you have a 996 or 997? That part seems to be just for 996s. Also, do you have a scanner that displays real-time O2 sensor readings?
  15. Ahsai
    Hi Dave, that y cable between the alternator and starter is more likely the culprit. Also possible your alternator is bad after it warms up. Only way to verify is like I told you before in post #9 here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44471-voltage-regulator-affected-by-heat-hence-low-voltage/#entry240001 To access the +ve terminal at the back of the alternator, check out post #15 here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44652-alternator-terminal-b-access/ By the time you take things apart, cables will have cooled down and the voltage drop may not be there anymore so it's best to test things at the moment the symptoms are showing.
  16. Ahsai
    1. Check out this post http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5944653-post7.html DME 7.2 is for 996s though but probably will apply to 997s as well. Also check out page 8 of this pdf 2. No, it should be able to display more than one. You could send an email to Durametric for support. They are pretty good.
  17. Ahsai
    I think JFP was not kidding when he said even pros can miss things....It's not clear how they fixed the problem. Did they replace the intake boot or they showed you the leak? I suspect intermittent connection issue on the MAF if it's not air leak.
  18. Ahsai
    Note there's also ims guardian junior that's even cheaper.
  19. Ahsai
    Yes, it's that round fat rubber tube with pleats between the MAF and the throttle body. Did you check the pleats (top and bottom) carefully? http://www.qsm.com.au/accessories/997intake_3155_1024.jpg
  20. Ahsai
    Btw, better price here http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-fuel-injection-idle-air-control-valve-911-boxster-0280140572
  21. Ahsai
    I was hoping to discourage you but sounds like you're detemined :) Resistance is only one factor though. The coils inside also have certain inductance. I think the valve is driven by the DME using PWM so its inductance will also impact the actual current going through the coils.
  22. Ahsai
    I don't know but do you really want to risk your $$$ DME with a look-alike non-Porsche part? Although I saw the incentive of 1:10 price difference. The crack you in your valve should be easily filled by Q-bond with the supplied powder (btw, great glue and filler for general auto and plastic repair). If you DO try the Kia part, at least measure the resistance of the coil and make sure it's the same as the stock part. But even then, you still won't know for sure if it works exactly the same way as the stock part (e.g., air flow rate vs voltage supplied/angle of the valve, momentum of the valve, etc.)
  23. Ahsai
    Um..plausible but the connectors don't match though. They have different "tracks".
  24. Ahsai
    Hopefully it's just a loose wire/connection between the DME and the MAF.
  25. Ahsai
    That's frustrting! By STFT and LTFT, I assume you meant FRA and TRA numbers? Indeed very strange if they are all zeros after a 20 mile drive. Let us know how it goes.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.